Better Engine/muffler performace (1 Viewer)

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love2fly

Flying the Mountains of the NW
Joined
Sep 7, 2004
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500
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Hi guys I am getting ready to embark on having a complete new exhaust installed on my 1982 2F stock engine with no emissions (Australian model) due to failing muffler and want to run exhaust tube up over frame instead of below skid plate. The truck still needs to be DEQ every two years so I need to keep it in close specks so I will not fail inspection. I am hoping to achieve a bit more engine breathing and power while keeping it quiet as possible with stock intake/exhaust head. Not sure if 2.5" exhaust tube is to much or maybe 2.25" tube is better and what is the best muffler on the market today. If anyone has basically done this with your 2F please chime in with what was done, used, and any performance changes. Thanks in advance.
 
We had better test results with a 2.50" exhaust when using a Header than when using a 2.25 exhaust, larger size didn't hurt performance at all. The quietest muffler I ever ran was a fully baffled Cadillac muffler from Midas, my guess is they also make this higher quality muffler in a 2.5"??
 
best muffler at what?
performance or subduing noise?
because you can't have the best of both worlds in one package here.
the more exhaust gas you let out at one time, means more noise goes with it.
the more noise you keep in, means you keep more exhaust gas in too.
 
Thanks guys as said this is an all stock no headers 2F engine. The 2.5 or 2.25 has been one of the main concerns in achieving both performance and sound mostly due to the one 90 degree turn then the two 45 degree turn to clear the typical area were the pipe is hanging low under the trans area. As per your statement brain on one can't have both is not exactly correct, you can have both but at a cost of not achieving a 100% on performance and a 100% on sound when combined. I will have to expect a loss in both areas but should be able to expect a bump in performance that may not be noticeable in the driving but at the gas pump hopefully, the mufflers of today are almost considered custom compared to what Toyota installed form the factory in the day. My last US made truck was a 1970 Ford Bronco with the 302. I built that truck from a pile of parts when I got. Before installing the body I took it to a company that had all the test equipment to set up what maybe call a custom exhaust system. After the diagnose of what would be the preface exhaust system was complete (took 10 minuets) I was really surprised on what was needed. Mainly the tube was the main item, to make this story short it need so many feet of 3" exhaust pipe for a 2 into one line, straight as possible and a free flow muffler of a certain size. When completed that rig was day and night, had so much more power. So unfortunately I am no longer near a facility that can diagnose my needs for the 2F but no that I will have to meet it half way with the right parts. I might put it on a trailer soon and travel the 150 so miles and just have it diagnosed at that race shop. Thanks guys
 
I loved the 2.5" with a header, but would be happy with a 2" and the stock exhaust.

For optimal circumstances, you can take it to the race shop, but it'll probably just net 1 hp or so difference honestly.
 
Mace is very close to correct, although the Headers to stock exhaust gave about a 10 h.p. gain, when we added the 2.5" exhaust behind the Header the gain was only in the 2-plus h.p. additional gain area.
 
as the above posts the only noticeable difference between mufflers is the amount of noise, a few HP difference is very difficult to detect, personally I've always thought the stock exhaust systems on 40/45's is a very distinctive and nice sound
 
The Toyota stock system is a good system but it was a rubber stamp production system exhaust, Toyota used pretty much the same mufflers but with a few minor changes though the early production years just as a few other car/truck manufacturers did before emissions took effect. The the US wanted more emissions like a cat added that's when things started to turn. The in line six is a very basic Chevy engine design and proven to be one heck of a reliable engine. So load it up with emission equipment like the 1982-3s and on and well we know.
I think you guys are all correct in what you are saying as each engine is different, be it with smog equipment, filter system, carbs, and so on but I am fortunate to have a completely non smog engine that never had any installed.
I guess it should make it a lot more uncomplicated to have it diagnosed for a few bucks for a new exhaust system at the said shop. I should be able to have what it was reading as in its running condition power before before any changes in a print out and then see what is suggested from that.
As for the headers, I would love to change to a good set but my experience with the F and 2F aftermarket headers is that they tend to need more attention every so often due to heat expansion and contraction were the bolts need to be re-torqued or they leak and possibly warp or blow the gaskets at one or more ports. I will admit I have not used any in ten years so maybe some aftermarket headers are now much better in design.
But in relation to me having to have a smog test every two years and a letter of agreement with the state stating that no modification's have and will be made to the original engine puts me in a corner to do anything like a header install.
I guess what I was looking for was input for a non smog engine that someone recently did what I was looking for. I suppose I should just take the old gal down and have it's system annualized for a possible upgrade. It will be a month or so till I can get to it but I will post what, "if any" performance/fuel saving I am be able to achieve from this and pass it on with parts used and tube size, bends in tube and so on.
Thanks
 
The Toyota stock system is a good system but it was a rubber stamp production system exhaust, Toyota used pretty much the same mufflers but with a few minor changes though the early production years just as a few other car/truck manufacturers did before emissions took effect. The the US wanted more emissions like a cat added that's when things started to turn. The in line six is a very basic Chevy engine design and proven to be one heck of a reliable engine. So load it up with emission equipment like the 1982-3s and on and well we know.
I think you guys are all correct in what you are saying as each engine is different, be it with smog equipment, filter system, carbs, and so on but I am fortunate to have a completely non smog engine that never had any installed.
I guess it should make it a lot more uncomplicated to have it diagnosed for a few bucks for a new exhaust system at the said shop. I should be able to have what it was reading as in its running condition power before before any changes in a print out and then see what is suggested from that.
As for the headers, I would love to change to a good set but my experience with the F and 2F aftermarket headers is that they tend to need more attention every so often due to heat expansion and contraction were the bolts need to be re-torqued or they leak and possibly warp or blow the gaskets at one or more ports. I will admit I have not used any in ten years so maybe some aftermarket headers are now much better in design.
But in relation to me having to have a smog test every two years and a letter of agreement with the state stating that no modification's have and will be made to the original engine puts me in a corner to do anything like a header install.
I guess what I was looking for was input for a non smog engine that someone recently did what I was looking for. I suppose I should just take the old gal down and have it's system annualized for a possible upgrade. It will be a month or so till I can get to it but I will post what, "if any" performance/fuel saving I am be able to achieve from this and pass it on with parts used and tube size, bends in tube and so on.
Thanks
What did you wind up getting? what muffler are you using @love2fly ? results? Update please. Gracias : )
 
My F has the new style headers from Man-A-Fre then 3" pipes to a MagnaFlow muffler and 3" pipes out the rear. It isn't that quiet and I am happy with the sound and the noise level. Makes the old 40 more distinctive. Also when I added the Holley 350 cfm carb, the old engine really woke up.
 
Im in the lead! *must be my better header performance*

649EF245-60CA-4FAC-85D2-4D9D5B70E93E.jpeg
 
I have not addressed the exhaust on my FJ40 yet but when I do I think I will use a Flowmaster HP-2 muffler in the stock size. It is a laminar core design and comes in SS. I have one on my 96 F250 beater truck as part of a header back exhaust I welded up to replace the rotted out stuff. Between that and the aftermarket cat (was not paying $500 for the same ford POS that just failed) it breathes really well. The sound is great, almost stock at idle but exactly what I wanted when you step on it. That is when you feel it is flowing so much better. However that is a 351W so I cant say what it will sound like on an I6, but I am confident it will flow, not cost a king's ransom and resist rusting.
FM_Super_HP2_Cutaway2.jpg
 
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I have a cherry bomb on mine. Pow!
 
It doesn't seem that loud from the drivers seat...! Still far far quieter than all the Harleys driving down my street.
 
Walker Quiet Flow muffler for a 1970s Chevelle. SS and afordable.
 
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An example of how exhaust can affect performance.

Years ago a friend and I each owned brand new 1969 Triumph Daytona 500's.
We were constantly racing and blowing the doors off anything that would go against us.
When we had no one else to race we raced each other.

It was fun going up against each other as we would shift at almost the exact same time and it sounded cool.
The down side for me was my friends bike would constantly beat me by half a length.

One mildly rainy day we was heading up to Big Bear Ca. with our wives on the back of our bikes taking it pretty easy with me in the lead when I rounded a curve at about 30 mph and my motorcycle popped out from underneath us dumping our butts on the road.

Turned out the car that happened to be sitting in the pull out where we crashed had hit a rock all those signs warned about puncturing the oil pan letting out all the oil out only to run across the already wet road.

I came out alright but my wife skinned her knee.
My motorcycle wasn't damaged too much so we made it on into town.

By then my wife's knee was stiffening up and she said she didn't think she could make it back down the hill on the back of the bike so we got a room with the plan of going down to get the car and coming back to get her next day.

I checked my bike that evening and found the left side of the handlebar to be bent and dent in the top bend of the left exhaust pipe right where the cross over pipe was.

Next morning my friend and I left the girls in the room and headed down to get the car.

The road was dry so of course we raced.
Everything seamed normal with the simultaneous shifting but this time I pulled a full bike length ahead.

I got new bars but never did anything to the exhaust and as long as I had that bike it would beat my friend's by a length.

Just figured the dent changed the back pressure in the right way to give that little bit of extra power.

So maybe when you do your exhaust you should grab a ball-peen hammer and put a couple dents in the pipe.
 
I think I am going to go with a Magnaflow XL. I hope it's not too loud. My rig is already loud enough driving down the cobblestone streets here in Guatemala!
 

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