Best replacement radiator for the money today... (1 Viewer)

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When the top tank of my T.Rad had a split in it (pretty much where yours is) I used this stuff. JB Weld RadiatorWeld

Like others said: Prep the surface well. And move fast. When I applied the patch and started putting the epoxy on it hardened quite fast, causing my fix to look like my toddler did it. It did a good job of minimizing the leak, but only stopped it for a week or so.
 
No patch material needed beyond the JB Weld. I taped off a boundary so that after it started to harden I could pull off the tape and leave a clean edge. Actually I stacked several layers of tape on top of each other to make an area for the JB weld to pool. It also strengthened the tape so that when I pulled it up, it didn't tear.
 
You can try JB Waterweld and cross your fingers. Prep it well.
^^^ This. I have the same leak that just started. I'm carrying JB Weld with me on a trip to TX. New radiator will not arrive from Rock in time to be installed.
 
I have a crack in the radiator that leaks in the plastic part next to the fill opening, on the picture on the bottom side. I have tried to glue it on the road yesterday with superglue, did not stick. I ordered a new OEM 50360 and while waiting for it to arrive, I would like to glue the crack or close it any other way (heat it and melt the plastic?). Anybody any experience and/or advice?

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My radiator started leaking at the same place. '
 
2 days and 100 miles later, this stuff does miracles! I used the 2X more expensive JB Weld Radiator (spend $15 iso $8) from Autozone. It comes with a patch that I cut in half and cut our the filler opening for the radiator. I figured, with the crack on the drivers side of the opening, it would probably go on the other side as well. Anyway, as you can see in the picture, I used all the stuff around the opening and covered the crack at least an inch on all sides. It hardens in about 3min enough to not be reapplied anymore. Cleaned the radiator with alcohol and roughened it up with 80 course sandpaper. It does not look pretty, but it works great for the first 2 days and 100mils.
Ordered my new radiator from Toyota Decator with (still) free shipping (I am on the coast in CA so that would have been ~$150). But at least I can drive the car.
Sofar I would fully recommend the JB Weld Radiotor for these quick fixes!

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I went with a Koyo in August 2021. Along with new Mr T hoses, clamps, and thermostat. Did the foam myself. Sort of kicking myself now for not getting a T.Rad but I was a naive new 100 series owner.

The Koyo install went flawlessly and it has worked perfect. I dont expect to get 230k out of it like the original, though.

If the Koyo Radiator lasts 1/2 as long as Koyo bearings, I'll be happy.
 
For those of you that have installed the OEM Mexico spec, how have they held up so far? Any issues with leaking or overheating?
 
For those of you that have installed the OEM Mexico spec, how have they held up so far? Any issues with leaking or overheating?
I just install one Mexico/global spec and had 600 miles on it and it worked well. When I compared with my old US oem spec radiator, the only difference that I can tell is the radiator cap sticker. It has different warning and color on it. And physically it is the same radiator cap with the same spec. everything else seem the same. I didn't count the density of the fins but from the brief inspection I cannot tell any difference.
 
I just install one Mexico/global spec and had 600 miles on it and it worked well. When I compared with my old US oem spec radiator, the only difference that I can tell is the radiator cap sticker. It has different warning and color on it. And physically it is the same radiator cap with the same spec. everything else seem the same. I didn't count the density of the fins but from the brief inspection I cannot tell any difference.
I am going to be replacing my original radiator with a Toyota Mexico/global spec (part# 16400-50360) soon in my 2000. I have always used the Toyota Long Life Red Coolant that I dilute 50/50 with distilled water. I know that Toyota switched over to the Super Long Life Pink coolant in 2002 or so. Since this is a new radiator, should I switch over to the Factory Pink or stay with the Factory Red?
 
I am going to be replacing my original radiator with a Toyota Mexico/global spec (part# 16400-50360) soon in my 2000. I have always used the Toyota Long Life Red Coolant that I dilute 50/50 with distilled water. I know that Toyota switched over to the Super Long Life Pink coolant in 2002 or so. Since this is a new radiator, should I switch over to the Factory Pink or stay with the Factory Red?
you can switch to pink and there won't be much difference for you. Even you switch to pink you may still want to keep the original maintains plan to change the coolant (50000miles?) rather than SLL maintains plan.

you may want to cycle out the old coolant with water first but even you mix pink and red I don't see much problem with it.
 
Would be interested with your post-install vs pre-install coolant temps @JJ_SC and @Gnarwgn
Finally getting around to an answer here, sorry for the delay -

Just went on a ~1100 mile roadtrip from Seattle > Jedediah State Park > SunRiver/Bend > Seattle. Was using the OBD Fusion app paired with the Veepeak OBD II scanner. Temps were 70-80 and MPH was about the same. Pretty much stuck at 180-190 degrees all the way through. Highest observed temp was 203, and that was through eastern OR/WA in 90 degree weather at 70-80mph. And only in overdrive above 3k rpm. The temp gauge on the actual dash never touched the 50 yard line.

I haven't touched anything since last summer's radiator/hose/thermostat/fluids swap, and so far so good!

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Any recommendations on OEM vs silicone mishimoto hoses? TIA
Personally, I only use the OEM stuff. They last a long time so silicone doesn’t make sense to me. Also, silicone hoses can be prone to weeping as they can be hard to get a good seal, especially if there’s any putting in the aluminum. They also require a rolled edge clamp to avoid the cutting of the silicone the can happen with typical clamps. Rubber hoses are more durable in this way.
 
Personally, I only use the OEM stuff. They last a long time so silicone doesn’t make sense to me. Also, silicone hoses can be prone to weeping as they can be hard to get a good seal, especially if there’s any putting in the aluminum. They also require a rolled edge clamp to avoid the cutting of the silicone the can happen with typical clamps. Rubber hoses are more durable in this way.
Is there a list of OEM hoses and parts I should replace along with the radiator? I couldn't find anything specific. I'm going to be taking it in to my shop to have it all done, so I either need to order everything and bring it, or have a list for them. I'm open to suggestions on anything else that might be worth replacing as i am fairly new to cruiser ownership. My 2000 has 196k.
 
Is there a list of OEM hoses and parts I should replace along with the radiator? I couldn't find anything specific. I'm going to be taking it in to my shop to have it all done, so I either need to order everything and bring it, or have a list for them. I'm open to suggestions on anything else that might be worth replacing as i am fairly new to cruiser ownership. My 2000 has 196k.
If you don’t know the work history of the truck, bare minimum replace the main rad hoses, the rad cap, thermostat, foam around the rad and probably the fan clutch. Other than that, others can chime in on things like the serpentine belt, etc.
 
^^^ Agree with this info. If OE replacement radiator, it’ll come with the cap and foam. The water pump is often changed with timing belt, not always. The serpentine belt tensioner should be changed out of it is original.
 
^^^ Agree with this info. If OE replacement radiator, it’ll come with the cap and foam. The water pump is often changed with timing belt, not always. The serpentine belt tensioner should be changed out of it is original.
Much appreciated gentlemen.
 
Is there a list of OEM hoses and parts I should replace along with the radiator? I couldn't find anything specific. I'm going to be taking it in to my shop to have it all done, so I either need to order everything and bring it, or have a list for them. I'm open to suggestions on anything else that might be worth replacing as i am fairly new to cruiser ownership. My 2000 has 196k.
Check this thread (which includes the two attached to the rear heater core): Diagram or List of All Hoses? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/diagram-or-list-of-all-hoses.1221002/
 
Is there a list of OEM hoses and parts I should replace along with the radiator? I couldn't find anything specific. I'm going to be taking it in to my shop to have it all done, so I either need to order everything and bring it, or have a list for them. I'm open to suggestions on anything else that might be worth replacing as i am fairly new to cruiser ownership. My 2000 has 196k.
I'd look at replacing your heater tees while coolant is drained if you think that they may be the original parts or see any signs of browning/crusty.
 

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