Best PMs for my new HDJ80?

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May 7, 2016
Decatur GA
Looks like I might close the sale on a 1990 HDJ80 LHD tomorrow and I was looking through the FAQ section for anything I could learn. Not my first diesel, but first LC diesel. I would like to take care of some possible issues that should be addressed while I have two trucks. The truck is from Amsterdam and has 475K km. The reason I started this thread is because of the bottom end bearing issue. Would this truck have made it this far without the bearings being replaced? If not, what kind of job is it? It got me thinking about any other issues that I could take care of at the same time before it becomes my DD. The birfs have just been rebuilt/resealed. I know this is kind of vague. I have an 80 now, so the only questions I have are related specifically to the diesel. BTW, it is a manual, CDL. Speaking of the manual, what is the normal life of the clutch in these things? I have had a few cars that are super simple, and super hard to replace.
Bearings are simple. Drop the pan and replace - worth the peace of mind with nearly half a million km and unknown history.
I'd like to have the manual.
Hard to know if they've been done, but one thing to check is the pan gasket sealant: original FIPG from the factory is grey and neatly applied. That's the factory stuff; Toyota sells the rest of us black FIPG.
Another 1HD-T BEB job
Would this truck have made it this far without the bearings being replaced?

Its possible if it was driven gently and had its oil changed regularly. But Im not saying that is a 100% sure fire way of not having bearing problems.
Not all of them needed changing at 100k. I met a young man who was given a HDJ80 by his farmer father and it had 600000klms and had never had the BEB changed.

Clutches can last 500k.

But at these klms you are likely to have some big repair bills in the near future. Don't fall for the landcruiser myth about lasting forever.
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All HDJ80s are unique in my opinion, I have seen ones with 200k kms that smoke blue and some with 500k that looks brand new, take care of your oil and injection system and you will be fine.
Just verify how does the car looks like, does it smokes? What color? Maybe start with some preventing injector cleaning?
If the clutch does not slip, there is no need to replace it.
So far my experience is all diesels seem unique. I used to own 5 Mercedes 300's. Every one was different. Good to know about the clutch but I am obviously getting close. So far the truck looks really clean. Hopefully it has not been pressure washed before the photos. I have a mechanic doing a final look tomorrow. I bought this knowing I will have some big bills. It was either now or later. Anyone have a good approximate cost to bench the pump and rebuild injectors? Just curious.

After talking with Brian at ACC here in Atlanta, it was not as much the repairs themselves but getting the parts. He has some VX's he is sitting on now just because the parts are taking forever to get in. If that is true, are there small "consumables" that I should try to have on hand that will be nice to have so I do not have to wait for them? Hoses, belts, air filter? I plan on having the normal stuff like that around anyway, but anything I may not normally think about?
Its probably around $1800 AUD here to do the injectors and a couple of hours labour with the pump, say another $300. My diesel shop includes flow matching the injectors and doing the final tuning to the pump with the vehicle on the dyno. This requires a new air and fuel filter to maximise output.
You could add a few more hours on if they remove/replace pump and injectors.

Anyone have a good approximate cost to bench the pump and rebuild injectors? Just curious.
That actually sounds cheap. My experience with my GM pumps is that they cannot really be serviced unless they are removed. Last time I had a pump rebuilt cost me $2500.
Depends on what you mean by service. My mechanic said its best done on the dyno because he can check the smoke ,EGTs, HP at various rpms. These are final adjustments rather than a service.
I would get the valves checked before any work on the fuel injection system.
Great advice thanks. What about the timing? Probably a Newb question, but carbon or seating? Or timing or top engine rebuild?
2500 for the pump and 1100 for the injectors is what I was quoted from a reputable rebuilder. You cannot rebuild the pump on the truck
If you thought your FZJ80 was expensive, wait till you start seeing prices for parts and the like for gray market non-US JDM trucks.

And with 475Km, you have a s*** ton of PM to do to it.

Good luck.
Never said I thought it was too expensive. I Just want to prepare myself for the work I need to do.
Order things like oil filters and fuel filters in bulk, they can't be picked up at the local parts shops. I'd probably short shift the 1st oil interval and send a sample out for testing. Timing belt is due every 100K kms so that's coming up soon, it's an easy job (half an hour or so after doing it once), just need a belt and tensioner spring unless something else is worn once you get it open, I'd normally skip the water pump but given the mileage you may just want to get it over with.

While draining the coolant to do the waterpump I'd flush the system and backflush the rad and heater cores, new t-stat, rad cap, and Toyota red coolant (personal preference). Now the timing belt is a big job, lol.

Any new to me vehicle gets new fluids everywhere. Brake fluid, F&R diff and TC oil, trans oil, etc.

Given that you're in the south, it's a good idea to drain and refill the fan clutch, you can get the silicon from R/C car shops, you may want to tune the opening point while you're at it, there's threads on this if you search. You don't need to really worry about things like fuel heaters, block heaters, etc, and your glow plugs aren't as high a priority either.

On a rig with that kind of mileage you may find the rubber bushings and mounts have degraded, which can be a series of pretty big jobs to get them all swapped out. You can get full bushing kits from @Akella or I'm sure Beno can piece a kit together as well, this means you'll need a shop press and arbors, or to pay a shop to have them press out/in bushings, and there's a lot of them between all the panhard rods, radius arms, etc these rigs have under them. Engine/trans mounts are another one, and that's another pretty big job that is a lot easier with an engine hoist, and you need to pull the fan and shroud so it's a good time to do the fan clutch if you plan ahead.

Expect that base lining a rig with that kind of life behind it will be a long, expensive journey. It better be your hobby for the foreseeable future.

It sounds like an awesome truck though, looking forward to seeing pics! You'll fall in love with it, it will all be worth it.
Forget the money, get in love with your new HDJ80, she will pay it back believe me.
I disagree that these rigs are exorbitantly more expensive to maintain then a FZJ80. Engine aside, obviously, a significant amount of everything else is interchangable with North American models. Most everything you need partswise is available for very reasonable prices via or things like starters/alternators etc from eBay in aus. I've never waited more then a week for anything I needed while baselining mine. I order parts from partsouq for my north American vehicles too, I can usually get them delivered/taxes/duties included for less then sourcing them local and much faster.

The exception to this may be pump and injector rebuilding which can be expensive, but once done will last a long time.

With that kind of mileage, make sure you are absolutely certain it's worth getting LHD for you. Much much lower units can be had if you are willing to do RHD (Which I think you determined you weren't interested in) or a conversion. It's really not that hard, just very time consuming, but your baselining is muuuuuch easier with the drivetrain out of the truck anyway :)

Have fun
^^ Agree, not bad at all really. I feel like the people who think Land Cruisers are expensive to maintain have never owned anything German (especially German sport/luxury), or anything Italian, or anything British...

It's going to cost more to maintain than an F150, but a lot less than an S-Class Mercedes.

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