Mace said:
Is that the rustoleum kind?
Best paint for axles? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter dieselcruiserhead
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Is that the rustoleum kind?
endura
hey andre , I used endura on my bro's frame and axles (and body) and it seems to be holding up the best as far as other products I've tried .I use to live on the east coast and that was the most durable rust resistant stuff out there at the time . rinsed off the diff the other day and could still see myself in it . Don't know if you're interested but it's good paint. The guys who painted my brothers truck hated it because of the twelve hour hardening time ,but for a frame you can spray the primer wait about an hour then spray the paint and the epoxy will bond without further prep.
hey andre , I used endura on my bro's frame and axles (and body) and it seems to be holding up the best as far as other products I've tried .I use to live on the east coast and that was the most durable rust resistant stuff out there at the time . rinsed off the diff the other day and could still see myself in it . Don't know if you're interested but it's good paint. The guys who painted my brothers truck hated it because of the twelve hour hardening time ,but for a frame you can spray the primer wait about an hour then spray the paint and the epoxy will bond without further prep.
My personal preference is to do several coats of ZeroRust, let that cure until fully hardened (?several weeks) and then top coat with a single coat of POR15's ChassisCoat Black. The ChassisCoat Black gives it UV protection, a nicer color, and a hard glassy smooth finish which is easier to rinse off than straight ZeroRust. I did parts of my 62 this way and it has held up perfectly in the NE salty slush.
Oh, and I do prep the metal beforehand with a wash with Marine Clean and then the Zinc Phosphoric acid solution (MetalReady or PrepStep).
Bill
Oh, and I do prep the metal beforehand with a wash with Marine Clean and then the Zinc Phosphoric acid solution (MetalReady or PrepStep).
Bill
If you are going down to bare metal, there are several options that you can consider (you get what you pay for). My advice if you want it to last is to go to a automotive refinish outlet (sherwin williams, ppg, dupont, etc) and get some datasheets. I used an industrial coating from PPG. A 2 part urethane, high film build coating will be very satisfying.
Mine was PPG AUE-300. It was about $70 for the gallon a few years back.
Good luck and have fun.
Mine was PPG AUE-300. It was about $70 for the gallon a few years back.
Good luck and have fun.
- Thread starter
- #27
thank you guys again.. Sparky I have been thinking about that as well. I have heard go with a good epoxy etch primer (I sound like I know what I am talking about but have no idea) you can get a very good and hard frame coating... But that was from the autobody101.com forums from some time ago. I guess that sort of primer helps a lot. Then spray something like you are discussing, a good strong PPG or something like that. I have a cheapo gun that I have never used and a semi small (26 gallon) compressor. But my ideology is that it is just the frame so it shouldn't be too much of a big deal what it looks like I guess as long as it is tight and works well.. I really like everyones input here, a lot of good info. I am definetely possibly leaning against a powdercoat now, for what its worth. But again it did a heck of a job of long term preservation here, much better than the OEM paint on the axles. So it makes me lean towards a possible powdercoat again I think.. When I get home here shortly I'll post some pics.. Thanks guys
I've seen POR-15 on axles and it looks nice. I drag my axles over everything so its pointless on my end, I have used rust bullet and have not been very pleased. I think POR-15 is a better product...My 2 cents.
I have had rust bullet bubble a few times on me, even though I did everything the label said. That and the top 1.5 inches of the can will harden everytime you use it. Unless you use the whole gallon at once, you may end up only getting 3/4 of the gallon out if you do it over a few weeks.
I have had rust bullet bubble a few times on me, even though I did everything the label said. That and the top 1.5 inches of the can will harden everytime you use it. Unless you use the whole gallon at once, you may end up only getting 3/4 of the gallon out if you do it over a few weeks.
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- #29
So I got an email back on finding locations that carry zerorust locally and here is what I came up with.
In Salt Lake City the best is AutoBody Supply that also carries POR-15 products. Here are cost breakdowns of different products...
Black Gallon ZeroRust $58.50 Gallon
Hammerite Black $58.50 Gallon
POR Metal Ready Quart $14.39
POR Marine Clean $11.11 Quart
POR-15 Black ~$120.00 Gallon
POR-15 Chassis Black (used over POR-15 for UV protection) $44.44 quart
So conclusion is POR-15 products are expensive! I don't mind shelling for prep materials but I think what I will do is sandblast, ZeroRust both a gallon probably brushed on and a couple spray cans for touch up, then a gallon of black Hammerite is what I am thinking, which is not affected by UV. Hammerite is like Mace says super heavy duty and super strong and I like the gallon price.. And that I can grind it down and touch up as needed... I think I might do this for both axles and frame??
Thoughts? Andre
In Salt Lake City the best is AutoBody Supply that also carries POR-15 products. Here are cost breakdowns of different products...
Black Gallon ZeroRust $58.50 Gallon
Hammerite Black $58.50 Gallon
POR Metal Ready Quart $14.39
POR Marine Clean $11.11 Quart
POR-15 Black ~$120.00 Gallon
POR-15 Chassis Black (used over POR-15 for UV protection) $44.44 quart
So conclusion is POR-15 products are expensive! I don't mind shelling for prep materials but I think what I will do is sandblast, ZeroRust both a gallon probably brushed on and a couple spray cans for touch up, then a gallon of black Hammerite is what I am thinking, which is not affected by UV. Hammerite is like Mace says super heavy duty and super strong and I like the gallon price.. And that I can grind it down and touch up as needed... I think I might do this for both axles and frame??
Thoughts? Andre
- Thread starter
- #30
Here are some photos of the rear axle...
- Thread starter
- #31
frame photos.. Not that bad (looks worse in photos) but still there..
I just finished painting my axles and parts of my frame with a couple coats of Zerorust followed by Rustoleum gloss black. The only problem I had was some incompatibility between the two paints. On certain parts, the Rustoleum didn't seem to adhere well to the zerorust. Especially on really hot 100+ degree days, when the metal gets too hot to touch, the rustoleum seems to soften up and slide around a bit. Not sure if it's because I didn't wait long enough or waited too long in between coats, or some other problem. I painted the aircleaner with just rustoleum (no zerorust base) and that seems to stick much better.
Everything turned out ok, but as I was doing other work (i.e. beating with hammers or wrenches), the rustoleum does tend to chip away fairly easily. The zerorust coat underneaths seems to be holding up much better though. The good thing is that the top coat is easily repaired with a rattlecan, which is the reason I went with it in the first place. Powdercoating would have required a lot more work to do any type of touchup.
Everything turned out ok, but as I was doing other work (i.e. beating with hammers or wrenches), the rustoleum does tend to chip away fairly easily. The zerorust coat underneaths seems to be holding up much better though. The good thing is that the top coat is easily repaired with a rattlecan, which is the reason I went with it in the first place. Powdercoating would have required a lot more work to do any type of touchup.
i think powder coat with hammer coat. it looks good cause of the texture, kinda hides the pitting in parts of the frame, and as far as normal powder coat, its about twice the strength. I dropped one end of my frame on the shop floor and you cant tell it. Pretty tough stuff.
