Due to the current situation, I find alot of times we have to wait in the car while idling during the hot summer days. I understand that this will burn up more oil and gas than usual. Since there's usually no need to add oil in between service, I find it I may need to do that now and then. With 150K on the odometer, what's the best oil to add? I would assume probably a quart at most just for supplement.
Best motor oil to add (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter landarcht
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gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
You really shouldn't be burning ANY oil that is overly noticeable, if you are then there are other issues.
Do a BlackStone Labs analysis the next time you do an oil change (got mine coming up) and see what they see going on in your system. Alita is just about to turn over 197k and I have yet to need to add oil in this oil change.
Do a BlackStone Labs analysis the next time you do an oil change (got mine coming up) and see what they see going on in your system. Alita is just about to turn over 197k and I have yet to need to add oil in this oil change.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
I agree with @gregnash - shouldn’t be consuming much, if any, oil in a 2uz. Certainly not like GM engines that torch through a quart every 5k miles even when new.
One easy thing you could do to prevent such consumption is move up from 5W-30 to 10W-30. Presumably this would help mitigate oil from getting past seals etc and reaching the combustion chamber.
One easy thing you could do to prevent such consumption is move up from 5W-30 to 10W-30. Presumably this would help mitigate oil from getting past seals etc and reaching the combustion chamber.
- Thread starter
- #4
Ok, I haven't noticed anything different, only read about it so I thought maybe I should check the dip stick and add some oil. On another note, I read it's okay to run AC with engine on for a while? I mean by an hour or two maybe?
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
If you've checked the dipstick and it's low, you maybe have other issues burning or leaking oil. Also, if you're idling that long, remember those count as miles too for service intervals. Can't remember what formula fleet operations use to calculate actual miles + idling time.
The 2UZ shouldn't burn any oil. There are guys on here with 400k plus with no oil consumption.
I like Mobil 1 full synthetic (not high mileage just normal full synthetic).
In terms of idling with AC on, do what you need to. If you have a well serviced cooling system you can idle however long you need to, AC is only a minor additional load.
Depending on how hot it is out you'll hear your electric aux fan kick on to knock temps down a bit. These motors are designed to keep operating temps flat even in extreme environments. If well maintained it will be no issue.
I like Mobil 1 full synthetic (not high mileage just normal full synthetic).
In terms of idling with AC on, do what you need to. If you have a well serviced cooling system you can idle however long you need to, AC is only a minor additional load.
Depending on how hot it is out you'll hear your electric aux fan kick on to knock temps down a bit. These motors are designed to keep operating temps flat even in extreme environments. If well maintained it will be no issue.
@landarcht
You should be able to sit and run your AC all day long no issue as long as your cooling system is good and your fuel holds out.
If it's low on oil, and you know what it has in it already, use that. If you don't know then you have a decision to make.
My personal fleet gets Mobil 1 0w-30 full synthetic. Its a 1 year 15k mile oil so once a year I just do all of the vehicles. The Blackstone reports on them are excellent.
Contrary to something I read above, lower winter weight oil ( 0w - ? ) does not equate to more oil consumption. That's just not how it works. In fact I don't know of any reason why you wouldn't want the lowest possible winter weight combined with whatever major weight you desire to run.
Hope this helps
You should be able to sit and run your AC all day long no issue as long as your cooling system is good and your fuel holds out.
If it's low on oil, and you know what it has in it already, use that. If you don't know then you have a decision to make.
My personal fleet gets Mobil 1 0w-30 full synthetic. Its a 1 year 15k mile oil so once a year I just do all of the vehicles. The Blackstone reports on them are excellent.
Contrary to something I read above, lower winter weight oil ( 0w - ? ) does not equate to more oil consumption. That's just not how it works. In fact I don't know of any reason why you wouldn't want the lowest possible winter weight combined with whatever major weight you desire to run.
Hope this helps
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- Thread starter
- #8
That's good to know. Not knowing your region, do you use that for all seasons?
I've noticed some random readings with my oil gauge for few years now, the sending unit was even replaced few yeas ago but still acting the same. It will read normal (middle) at times but sometimes will be very low at the last tick mark. But there's no issue each time checked during maintenance. Not sure what else is causing the random low reading.
I've noticed some random readings with my oil gauge for few years now, the sending unit was even replaced few yeas ago but still acting the same. It will read normal (middle) at times but sometimes will be very low at the last tick mark. But there's no issue each time checked during maintenance. Not sure what else is causing the random low reading.
I live in Kansas so the temperature swing will be from just over 100* summer to 0* maybe just a bit colder in the winter. I don't have a Mobil 1 specific flow chart but it's going to be damn close to covering the high portion of that range. Since you can't go any lower than 0 winter weight it doesn't really matter if the chart says it covers the lowest temperature range you might encounter because it's the best you have to choose from regardless.
Some people will run a higher major weight say 40 even 50 in hot climates. The thought being that the heavier oil will hold up better or absorb more heat maybe? I've never really understood the argument and there may or may not be actual scientific data out there to prove this one way or the other in a street application. For sure though the flow of oil cools components down, so once again you can argue that even a lower major weight like 30 or even 20 will provide better protection.
For sure though you want flow as quickly as possible to your friction surfaces once you start the motor. Even 0 winter viscosity oils, as thin as they seem when you are pouring them out of the bottle, are not ideal protection for your motor. However, they are the thinnest you can get at startup, therefore they are the best thing you are going to put in your motor.
I hope this made sense, if not feel free to ask any questions and hopefully I can clarify or maybe provide you with some links if you want to educate yourself more on oil viscosity.
you should be doing that on a regular basis regardless of whether you think its burning oil or not, its a good habit to be in
the oil pressure gauge is not really the most accurate anyways, its just there as a visual indicator. if your concerned about oil pressure you can install an aftermarket gauge or rent a oil pressure tester and check it yourself.
I know one of the scientists on the team that invented Mobile1 synthetic motor oil (he's now 97 years old!). He told me they tested it up to 115K miles under extreme conditions without any breakdown or adverse effects.
Basically he said you don't really need to change the oil if you're using Mobile1 or its equivalent, but that the filter does need to be changed so you may as well do the oil and filter every 15-20K miles or so. Also, you don't want to get complacent about checking the oil to avoid catching other problems.
Basically he said you don't really need to change the oil if you're using Mobile1 or its equivalent, but that the filter does need to be changed so you may as well do the oil and filter every 15-20K miles or so. Also, you don't want to get complacent about checking the oil to avoid catching other problems.
Whatever is cheap.
But yeah 300k miles here and doesnt consume any oil.
I always use cheap oil.
But yeah 300k miles here and doesnt consume any oil.
I always use cheap oil.
On the 100 oil isn’t that significantly recognizable or felt in my case. But on my previous cars that I raced hard, I’ve been very happy on how the MOTUL 300V performed it’s just damn expensive oil. I alternate cheap-o and Royal Purple on my 100 change oil intervals.
Why not just check your dipstick and add 5w30 oil of whatever brand you run? This shouldn't be a forum
I have similar needs as the OP. I idle a lot and there's no way around it. Also go offroading which is low RPM = lower oil pressure. Plus towing trailers over mountain passes = high load, high heat.
I had a Blackstone oil report done that confirmed that my oil wasn't really cutting it. See below.
Was just getting whatever Stevinson Lexus put in because the oil change price there was very reasonable, but recently their prices have gone way up so I decided to try the new gas truck HD oil by Rotella. I have used their T6 diesel oil in some of my other vehicles so I am excited to try this new 5W-30 oil specifically designed for trucks doing truck stuff.
Rotella Gas Truck Synthetic 5w-30: Amazon.com: Shell Rotella Gas Truck Full Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil for Pickups and SUVs (5-Quart, Single-Pack): Automotive
Toyota Oil Filter: Amazon.com: OES Genuine Oil Filter for select Lexus/Toyota models: Automotive
Previous oil report:
I had a Blackstone oil report done that confirmed that my oil wasn't really cutting it. See below.
Was just getting whatever Stevinson Lexus put in because the oil change price there was very reasonable, but recently their prices have gone way up so I decided to try the new gas truck HD oil by Rotella. I have used their T6 diesel oil in some of my other vehicles so I am excited to try this new 5W-30 oil specifically designed for trucks doing truck stuff.
Rotella Gas Truck Synthetic 5w-30: Amazon.com: Shell Rotella Gas Truck Full Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil for Pickups and SUVs (5-Quart, Single-Pack): Automotive
Toyota Oil Filter: Amazon.com: OES Genuine Oil Filter for select Lexus/Toyota models: Automotive
Previous oil report:
trdcorolla
SILVER Star
Wow, a 4k recommendation interval for the 4.7 motor? I haven't looked at oil analysis on the LX 4.7's but when I had my 4.7 4Runner, cheap Chevron 5W30 dino was getting double or even triple that interval recommendation Do you think the Lexus dealer even changed the oil?I have similar needs as the OP. I idle a lot and there's no way around it. Also go offroading which is low RPM = lower oil pressure. Plus towing trailers over mountain passes = high load, high heat.
I had a Blackstone oil report done that confirmed that my oil wasn't really cutting it. See below.
Was just getting whatever Stevinson Lexus put in because the oil change price there was very reasonable, but recently their prices have gone way up so I decided to try the new gas truck HD oil by Rotella. I have used their T6 diesel oil in some of my other vehicles so I am excited to try this new 5W-30 oil specifically designed for trucks doing truck stuff.
Rotella Gas Truck Synthetic 5w-30: Amazon.com: Shell Rotella Gas Truck Full Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil for Pickups and SUVs (5-Quart, Single-Pack): Automotive
Toyota Oil Filter: Amazon.com: OES Genuine Oil Filter for select Lexus/Toyota models: Automotive
Previous oil report:
Yes I checked the dipstick and it was always noticeably cleaner after their service. Been going there since I bought my LX and always had good service, they have a great reputation also, but I have no clue what oil they use. I always got their synthetic option. I agree on the 4000 mi recommendation, should be more. My engine does have 230+k miles on that report, but also has an extensive service history with oil changes every 5-10,000 miles during it's life. That's a big part of why I'm going for the Rotella this time. I will do another 5,000 miles and submit another sample to Blackstone. It does not burn or leak any oil, which is quite amazing.
I dump my oil ever 4k, and change my filter ever 2k, new air filter every change as well or more often. Oil comes out looking new every time.
>> I like that your are sending it off for analysis, without doing that all of this is just opinion based logic.
I have similar needs as the OP. I idle a lot and there's no way around it. Also go offroading which is low RPM = lower oil pressure. Plus towing trailers over mountain passes = high load, high heat.
I had a Blackstone oil report done that confirmed that my oil wasn't really cutting it. See below.
Was just getting whatever Stevinson Lexus put in because the oil change price there was very reasonable, but recently their prices have gone way up so I decided to try the new gas truck HD oil by Rotella. I have used their T6 diesel oil in some of my other vehicles so I am excited to try this new 5W-30 oil specifically designed for trucks doing truck stuff.
Rotella Gas Truck Synthetic 5w-30: Amazon.com: Shell Rotella Gas Truck Full Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil for Pickups and SUVs (5-Quart, Single-Pack): Automotive
Toyota Oil Filter: Amazon.com: OES Genuine Oil Filter for select Lexus/Toyota models: Automotive
Previous oil report:
I've had success using this oil in high revving Nissan VQ engines that like to shred oil. I like it.
