Best method for redoing wiring (1 Viewer)

[90 Weight]

I am about to tear into my painless kit one last time, to shorten everything up to fit nicely...Initally I used butt connecters but I dont want to take shortcuts...Is soldering and heat tubing the connections the best option?

Thanks

Eli

 

[burnttoastburgos]

Most definetly solder and shrink wrap,but a good quality wrap from an electrical supply,there IS a difference over Radio Slak!! Also to make sure you've planned all your terminals correctly as it is very time consuming but well worth the confidence of knowing you'll have connections that will be weather and bomb proof. the only thing worse than fixin electrical probs in the woods is repairing a brake line. just my opinion

 

[90 Weight]

good to know..I had just bought a roll of shrink wrap at autozone....also a solder gun and wire...should I take it all back? or just the shrink wrap?

found this shrink wrap site...looks like it would be high quality?

http://www.shrinktek.com/docs/ProductTemplate.aspx?product_id=Mini Reels

 

[Engineer]

Painless

Did you make a wiring diagram for the painless kit as you went along?

Flashers are giving me a headache (not naked people kind of flasher).

 

[90 Weight]

hahah I havent even tried to hook them up (well I have but given up multiple times!)


that will hapen within the next week tho

 

[fjwagon]

Label everthing, do a continuity test(ohming the wire out) to make sure they end up where they are supposed to go. Shrink tubing is nice and wrapping in electrical tape also will help it last longer. You can sometimes get away using the original connectors. I usually will take extra connectors off at the junkyard and save them for a rainy day.

 

[DSRTRDR]

Did you make a wiring diagram for the painless kit as you went along?

Flashers are giving me a headache (not naked people kind of flasher).

Painless assumes an activating switch for the flashers, Toyota built an interrupt switch - you basically have to rebuild the connections as you found them originally, or as in the Toyota wiring diagram; includes hazard lights, brake lights and blinkers - they are all on one curcuit from Toyota

 

[Rudical]

I am to wiring with Painless

90 Weight: you do have some good advice to label eveything and shrink wrap. I put everything in about five years ago, but lost the intersest and now have it back again. Took the harness out out laid it out in my living room and drew a diagram. I have put it back in and have just run some wires outside the 40 to make sure it works. ran probs with the signals and wipers. I figuered out the signals but not the wipers (any info would help with this). I am not done yet but just want to agree with some of the info. would like to know how it works out.

Engineer: Are you installing the painless kit too? I am going through it. Not sure what kit you are putting in, I have a 12 circuit kit. I am not sure if DSR.. is correct, but I found that if I do not follow the toy diagram and connect the purple #752 to the green/blue wire on the turn signal I have my signals working. It was a pain when I tried to follow the origanal specs. Again not sure about the truck you are putting them in, mine is a '71 FJ40. Good Luck!

 

[worknplay]

 

[90 Weight]

I am not planning on taking out all the wiring...just pulling down all the extra wire from under the dash, and cutting it to fit snugly under there.. I dont want to take it all out, because all of it is working fine (except the brake light...but thats a simple fix) and then while im shortening the wires I will connect the blinkers and the remaining stuff....


Why would it be a bad idea to use the shrink wrap that I got from autozone? Obviously its lesser quality then from an elec store..but we dont have a store like that and I want to get started and not wait for stuff to ship. Would this be a mistake?

 

[PAFJ]

Automotive wiring splices, teminal lugs, connectors, etc. are crap. I highly recommend using aviation quality products. Download a catolog from these guys. You'll pay more up front, but it will be worth it in the long run.

http://www.hi-line.com/catalog/

Good Luck!

 

[90 Weight]

Thanks for the link, I just got off the phone with one of their reps.... He said that if I used their butt connecters with the heat shrink on each side it would be much cleaner looking then if I soldered, and in terms of quality and reliability it would also equal soldering. Very very pricey compared to normal.....

At the hardware store- 50 of the same style connecters w/the heatshrink on either side = $9.00

from them $44.00

but if I dont have to solder and it gives me the same quality, then it seems like the way to go!

Automotive wiring splices, teminal lugs, connectors, etc. are crap. I highly recommend using aviation quality products. Download a catolog from these guys. You'll pay more up front, but it will be worth it in the long run.

http://www.hi-line.com/catalog/

Good Luck!

 

[Richard R]

If I ever do a maajor wiring job on a 40 again I am going
to cut the dash out and put it on hinges.

Dick.

 

[PAFJ]

Thanks for the link, I just got off the phone with one of their reps.... He said that if I used their butt connecters with the heat shrink on each side it would be much cleaner looking then if I soldered, and in terms of quality and reliability it would also equal soldering. Very very pricey compared to normal.....

At the hardware store- 50 of the same style connecters w/the heatshrink on either side = $9.00

from them $44.00

but if I dont have to solder and it gives me the same quality, then it seems like the way to go!

Sounds like a lot. How's the quality of the hardware store splices? I agree crimping the splices, then melting the enviromental seal is much cleaner looking then solder and much faster. From prior experience working with these guys I can say their reps are pretty good. If your willing to wait, I would ask for a sample of some their environmental splices, lugs, etc., then compare with the hardware store.

Good Luck-

 

[burnttoastburgos]

I'll GIVE ya the 44 bucks just to see you do the right thing.......its only money now but a ball breaker when s*** shorts out and your far from home .....not to mention night time.........sunday............

 

[90 Weight]

I'll GIVE ya the 44 bucks just to see you do the right thing.......its only money now but a ball breaker when **** shorts out and your far from home .....not to mention night time.........sunday............

what about crimping doesnt secure as well as solder....? as long as its sealed and well crimped?

 

[burnttoastburgos]

here ya go bro, http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp?catalog_name=MCMProducts&category_name=&product_id=22-770 .or at least something similar with a rachet mechanism,this has always worked for me..................using solderless terminals,pull the plastic round insulation off,discard,... sleeve a 1" piece of shrink wrap over wire,use this racheting tool to crimp solderless terminal on wire good and tight then slide shrink wrap over crimp, then heat.remember bake @ 350 for 20 min.no thats something else. Im right behind you by a few months with my frame off.

 

[90 Weight]

thanks man...so if your behind me a few months in your build...does that mean your at the phase where your constantly yelling at your painter?

 

[burnttoastburgos]

actually everything thats steel is getting powdercoated but we both know thats a touchy subject.hehe He's pretty quick usually three -four day turnaround.

 

[F-junker]

I've in the past been a solder and shrink-wrapper (yo whatsup) but seriously, I was a VW geek for several years and came to find that VW did a study in the late seventies and then again a few years back proving that soldered joints have a higher tendency of breakage and soldering imperfection resulting in electrical loss than high quality crimped connections. I was very skeptical until I started using a good crimper and connectors from an electrical supply store. Turns out the heat can make wires brittle behind the solder joint and are more prone to breakage and elec loss under VIBRATION, that's a concern for my POS truck and I'll continue to use crimped connectors that can be put under stress. Good Luck to all of you rewiring, it's a real bitch just thank god you aren't replacing a lucas system in a british car or bike, yikes NO FUN.