Best harmonic balancer puller holder design (1 Viewer)

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The problem with your version is that you are placing all the shear force into the rubber of the harmonic balancer and will most likely trash it. Definitely don't do that method when retorquing to 304.

^^^^

Agree and would add:

The 'break away' torque required to remove the bolt (that may have been on there 20+ years) is even greater than the torque to install. Not a good idea to capture the HB by its circumference for either procedure. The risk of compromising the rubber bond could be a very real concern.

The use of an impact wrench (to remove) 'might' help mitigate some of the risk, but its just better to hold the HB as was intended to be done (use the bolt holes provided).
 
Is your friend a fabricator/welder by trade?
No, but he welds a lot ( since childhood 4yrs old). He’s 56 now. He’s really good with mechanical junk. He’s got a crane and a cement mixer from 1930 that he still uses with orig engines that crank right up :) The cement mixer will literally kill you if you don’t know how to run it. :)
 
Just an update on our tool. The one's that we've been making for the last few months are 1/2" thick now. Stripping the 3/8" ones was rare, I haven't heard about anyone stripping the1/2" ones. We've been using the same 3/8" one at the shop weekly for about two years.
 
No, but he welds a lot ( since childhood 4yrs old). He’s 56 now. He’s really good with mechanical junk. He’s got a crane and a cement mixer from 1930 that he still uses with orig engines that crank right up :) The cement mixer will literally kill you if you don’t know how to run it. :)
He patented his own valve train about 20 yrs ago, but got killed by the big 3 and never sold it.
 
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Just an update on our tool. The one's that we've been making for the last few months are 1/2" thick now. Stripping the 3/8" ones was rare, I haven't heard about anyone stripping the1/2" ones. We've been using the same 3/8" one at the shop weekly for about two years.

It's a great tool.....now made even better. Thank You for making it available. Love mine.
 
Made some 20 years ago in a rush for my s/c install. Sacrificial 1/2" socket has done well and the 'tool' has been used on several s/c installs and oil pump o-ring services. Lot's of ways to skin this cat...

sst1.jpg


cheers,
george.
 
I gotta find a large torque wrench as well.

Here are a couple of options:

I have not tried either of these options.

Go digital.. Not sure if this can be used as a torque wrench or not... Not sure why it couldn't. Also, cheaper on Amazon.. Could not get the link to work correctly.




Or if you like math:
Torque Wrench Extension Calculator - https://www.norbar.com/Home/Torque-Wrench-Extension-Calculator#:~:text=When%20you%20put%20an%20extension,achieve%20the%20required%20fastener%20torque.

As explained in the post:
A Low Cost 300 ft-lb Torque Wrench - DIY Shop-Built - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/a-low-cost-300-ft-lb-torque-wrench-diy-shop-built.931012/
 
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I’ve got a bad harmonic balancer. I noticed some grooves in the timing chain cover. It looked machined and I thought it was made that way. Then took off the oil pump cover and cleaned it up and noticed the same groove.

Looked at the HB and it’s got some metal “bumps” protruding from the rubber belt area. I’m gonna buy a new one.

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Just had my oil pump gasket and crank seal done today. Noticed a small groove on my oil pump cover like picture above. Not as deep though.

8EF88FA4-5243-4A44-AFC0-72138670AB08.jpeg
 
Just had my oil pump gasket and crank seal done today. Noticed a small groove on my oil pump cover like picture above. Not as deep though.

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I didn't realize it but this must be somewhat common (I have 318000 miles). My HB doesn't look in bad shape (little cracks) on the front side and didn't notice any symptoms. However, the back clearly had 4 raised (kind of looked like thick wire) hard bumps that definitely did not look good. I'm glad that I noticed it and ordered another HB. You may need to do that at some point.
 

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