Best glue for gluing wood?
- Thread starter Bradley
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Titebond III is what I use for most stuff like that.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Heck-Elmers wood glue is very good, but that Gorilla glue is the stuff.
Any wood glue will be stronger than the wood around it. Don't use construction adhesive (PLx00, Liquid Nails, etc.). Urethane glue (Gorilla Glue) is overkill by a large margin and much more difficult to work with.
-Spike
-Spike
I build furniture and have used various glues. The urethane glues are strong but make a mess and are hard to clean up. The White glues can easily be cleaned up with a sponge and some water. On the WoodWorking forum I visit, some people have had issues with Titebond III. There are some complaints of joint failures with Titebond III. I have been using Titebond II myself.
Another Titebond III joint failure. Tossed it this time.
Titebond
Another Titebond III joint failure. Tossed it this time.
Titebond
I misread this as "loose bowels" and was going to make a crack about using urethane glue to tighten up a stool.I use elmers and tightBond on must stuff, and Gorilla glue on outdoor projects. I've also bee know to get kooky with epoxies.
Oily tropical hardwoods can be real difficult to glue. But if you're working a standard species, then any of the above will work.
X - 2
It is difficult to determine how much expansion is going to happen. Bugger to clean up afterwards.
It is difficult to determine how much expansion is going to happen. Bugger to clean up afterwards.
My understanding is that when urethane glue expands, it is actually filled with lots of tiny air bubbles, like expanding foam. I personally don't think this makes a stong joint. There is no substiture for a tight fitting joint. The best advice I can give is get your boards straight as possible. If they are not straight, find someone with a tablesaw and rip them so they are straight. Then use pipe clamps to hold them while the glue dries. Some locally owned lumber yards do have shops that can do this for you at a reasonalbe price.
Good luck separating a urethane-glued 'loose' joint. Your advise is absolutely spot-on as far as building joints, but when you have a repair to make and the material just isn't there, urethane glue can save a lot of time that would otherwise be spent making new parts. The stuff is rediculously strong, and fills voids like nothing I've seen. The clean-up factor makes it a bad choice for good joinery, but excellent for repairs IMO.
-Spike
Gorilla. I built a laminated counter top with it. Sweet.
titebond 2 for wood, titebond 3 for mdf
Yep Titeblonde.........the waterproof stuff built a bunch of canoes for me.
Gorilla Glue has came out with a "White" glue for wood working.
The Gorilla Glue I was refereing too in the posts above was the brown bottle "Original" that states you can pretty much glue poop to a brick on the ceiling.
The Gorilla Glue I was refereing too in the posts above was the brown bottle "Original" that states you can pretty much glue poop to a brick on the ceiling.
Good to know, gotta specify which one I'm talking about from now on. I wonder what its properties are, if it has any advantages over standard wood glues, or if its just another standard wood glue. Research necessary.
-Spike