Best CV option, Rebuilt? A/M? // Best Radiator for the money. 2020 Edition (1 Viewer)

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Mdej3

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Mud Family, greetings!

Yes, i know how to use search.
Yes, i read a lot of info; most threads are from 2016 and prior, would like to get 2020 fresh opinions.

1- What is the best option for CV’s?

OEM really expensive, OEM rebuilt on B/O.
-Would you recommend rebuilt? If so, what kit?
-Would you replace with AM? What option?

2- Best radiator for the money.

Again, OEM, really expensive.
What AM options have you used and have been good?

Going thru MAYOR overhaul on my 100, and these are the only 2 things missing on the list.

Thank you all!!

2E050E75-2CD8-4E3E-823C-85762FB27A88.jpeg
 
OEM CVs are your absolute best option. Paired with new OEM drive flanges and you'll be set. Why deal with worn splines on a reman'd axle? Those worn splines won't match perfectly with the worn hub flanges you already have. Just seems a recipe for vibrations.

As for radiator, as Trunk Monkey stated above, there is a huge thread outlining the radiator options. I went with the Denso and new OEM Toyota hoses....also went ahead and replaced the heater ts and their hoses.
 
Some people on here have been complaining about leaky boot clamps on OEM CVs recently, so if you go that route you might want to consider installing the McMaster clamps as PM. Meaning, leaky clamps right out of the box...
 
OEM CVs are your absolute best option. Paired with new OEM drive flanges and you'll be set. Why deal with worn splines on a reman'd axle? Those worn splines won't match perfectly with the worn hub flanges you already have. Just seems a recipe for vibrations.

As for radiator, as Trunk Monkey stated above, there is a huge thread outlining the radiator options. I went with the Denso and new OEM Toyota hoses....also went ahead and replaced the heater ts and their hoses.
Pretty much same goes for the CV Axle discussion. No real new players in the game that are offering anything comparable to OEM. You pretty much have your choice or OEM ($$$$) or AM ($-$$$). Lots of guys have been happy with the Cardone HD ones (for new AM) and there have been some that have been happy with Detroit Axles or CVJ Axles (for reman'd) but those can be on the pricey side. All comes down to how much you want to pay and how much you want to gamble.
 
Unless you have a big lift, I have never had any issues at all with my Detroit Axle Reman Axles. Have been great.
 
NAPA remanufactured axles can be OEM. You'll probably have to order a number to get a set. I had to go through four to get two OEM's.

My current LX has aftermarket CV's from lord knows where. I've beat this truck pretty good with zero issues.

I had my pulley bearing go and throw my fan into my radiator. Autozone had a nice one for a decent price.

Toyota stuff might last longer, but how longer do you need?

Jim
 
NAPA remanufactured axles can be OEM. You'll probably have to order a number to get a set. I had to go through four to get two OEM's.

My current LX has aftermarket CV's from lord knows where. I've beat this truck pretty good with zero issues.

I had my pulley bearing go and throw my fan into my radiator. Autozone had a nice one for a decent price.

Toyota stuff might last longer, but how longer do you need?

Jim
That really is the question. Most of us want to do the job once and leave it until the part fails in another 100k+ miles. That is not normally something that you can get with Aftermarket parts. But all depends as sometimes you just get a bad OEM part.
 
If we wanted to change the same parts over and over again, we'd buy Jeeps
 
Whether or not you are lifted (looks like it), I think the general trend is that AM axles don't last as long as OEM. If you are doing a big overhaul, you may want to stick with more OEM than not so you don't have to redo the work earlier down the road to replace the AM parts.

I know someone who has an Amazon-sourced front axle and he's had no issues with it, and his driveway and connecting roads are NOT pavement, or anything close to it. He has AHC with sensor lift, and he's pretty armored up.

If I were in your shoes and doing a big overhaul, I'd see the cost increase for full OEM parts as a future investment on having to replace non-OEM parts sooner than later .... IF you plan on keeping the rig for a significant amount of time and mileage.
 

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