Best caster correction for ~2" lift? (1 Viewer)

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Jun 20, 2007
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Provo, Utah
I decided to go with a 2" lift (probably Dobinson) for my '91 and run 35s. I already have a 1" body lift and 33's. What's the consensus on the best way to maintain desirable geometry in the suspension? There are Delta arms, eimkeith's brackets, MAF brackets, plates, or bushings. I am leaning toward eimkeith or Delta (let's assume price is not an issue for this). AFAIK, eimkeith and Delta both allow the option of moving the front axle ~1" so forward, which would be nice for fitting larger tires and improved approach angle. Any input would be welcome. Thanks in advance!
 
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I agree, if price is not a concern, best bet would be delta front arms with fresh OEM bushings (they'll press them in for you). If price is a factor, then Landtank 2" caster plates and new OEM bushings in your stock arms.
 

baldilocks

Battle Ground, WA
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Does a 2” lift really require attention to castor correction? If you are set on doing something, I think the eimKeith weld in drop brackets would be my choice due to the fact it’s only two inches of hang down and this method is most proper.
 
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A 2 inch lift changes caster by about 3.4 degrees so two 2 degree offset bushings would do the job cheaply and easily.
 

Cruiser804

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Don't know if 2" "requires" caster correction but I recently installed the Delta arms after years of riding on OME caster correction bushings and I'm not sure I've regretted anything more on my Cruiser. Meaning, I wish like hell the Delta arms were available years ago.
 
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Clovis, CA
At 2” of lift, I’d recommend caster plates (landtank 2.5”) or Delta arms.

It will probably be on the stronger side of caster correction, but your cruiser will track like the devil in the pale moonlight.
 

Bambusiero

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My truck has the typical OME medium setup, combined with OME caster correction bushings, which, now, years later, puts my front end lift right at 1 3/4". Don't remember the correction from those, but I think it's not quite enough -driving behaviour seems to need some more caster - not totaly stable - wanders some on the highway.
 

leonard_nemoy

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First of all you need an alignment so you know what your caster is currently at. Than you should start planning. Every 80 series is different, some need 4 degrees correction with a 2" lift and others dont need any.

Other than that, I think that new arms, trunion correction bearings from cruiser outfitters ( @cruiseroutfit ) or some form of drop bracket are the best options.

It sure seems like nobody on mud ever mentions the trunion bearing option. It worked great on my old 91 and the bearings never had any issues after 90,000 miles.

Also, remember that with a lot of caster correction methods you can potentially run into clearance issues with steering linkage components, especially if your using aftermarket heavy duty steering parts.

P.S. don't forget the cut & weld method if your adventurous.....
 
Joined
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I ran the OME 2.5" lift with the castor correction bushings and can definitely state that the Delta Arms were a huge improvement. Prior to going to the Deltas, I was going to add the trunnion bearings @leonard_nemoy suggested at the next knuckle service but, felt that the two items together may act more like a bandaid. Buying the Delta arms may have been the best mod I have done to the vehicle.

Ultimately, correcting castor with a consumable parts (bearings and bushings) is not the best way to address this, the drop brackets, castor correction plates or arms are best. I just felt the added flex, possible issues with sway bar clearance and apparent increase in durability made the purchase of the Delta Arms a no brainer, even if they were spendy. Again, probably the best mod I have done.
 
Joined
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Grand Junction, CO
I'm running 2.5" lift springs in the front of my FJ80. Alignment showed 3.5 degrees negative caster, it had death wobble and was undrivable over 40 mph.

So, YES, you need caster correction.

If you're running 35 inch tires, I would go with the EIM Keith as it is made specifically for a 2" lift and pushes the axle forward for larger tires.

FJ80 / FZJ80 RAM

IMG_3736.jpg

It's only $106 and allows you to go back to the stock location easily. Compared to the $1060 Delta VS arms with required new bushings. Thus, literally Delta arms are 10 times the price. Money is always a question. You could spend that on tires, lockers, seats, armor... the list goes on. Delta products look nice, I just think they are quite overpriced for what they are. Parts prices for FJ80s are overpriced as it is due to lack of competition. I came from a Tacoma and parts were much much less expensive due to competitive pricing. With the FJ, one person make a part, and as everyone wants it and no one else makes it, they can charge whatever they want for it. I say stop supporting price gouging.
 
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thatcabledude

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If there is any chance or going bigger with lift in the future I wouldn’t spend the money on arms. If you know you stay where you are arms all the way. Partly because you probably could use new bushings as well.
 

leonard_nemoy

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I'm running 2.5" lift springs in the front of my FJ80. Alignment showed 3.5 degrees negative caster, it had death wobble and was undrivable over 40 mph.

So, YES, you need caster correction.

If you're running 35 inch tires, I would go with the EIM Keith as it is made specifically for a 2" lift and pushes the axle forward for larger tires.

FJ80 / FZJ80 RAM

IMG_3736.jpg

It's only $106 and allows you to go back to the stock location easily. Compared to the $1060 Delta VS arms with required new bushings. Thus, literally Delta arms are 10 times the price. Money is always a question. You could spend that on tires, lockers, seats, armor... the list goes on. Delta products look nice, I just think they are quite overpriced for what they are. Parts prices for FJ80s are overpriced as it is due to lack of competition. I came from a Tacoma and parts were much much less expensive due to competitive pricing. With the FJ, one person make a part, and as everyone wants it and no one else makes it, they can charge whatever they want for it. I say stop supporting price gouging.

Tire size has no effect on caster, only a lift will change caster #'s.

Can these brackets cause clearance issues between the stock arms and steering linkage that would otherwise be negated by the Delta arms?
 
Joined
Oct 23, 2019
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Grand Junction, CO
Tire size has no effect on caster, only a lift will change caster #'s.

Can these brackets cause clearance issues between the stock arms and steering linkage that would otherwise be negated by the Delta arms?
No. If you’re using caster correction bushings or caster plates these will move your tie rod closer to your radius arms and may cause interference.

However, with these brackets they lower the rear of the arm, which actually moves the arm away from your tire rod end. Due to the fact that this version of the bracket pushes the tires forward he notes that it may cause interference with the pan hard rod which may require some grinding.

I never said anything about tire size affecting caster.
 
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Parts prices for FJ80s are overpriced as it is due to lack of competition. I came from a Tacoma and parts were much much less expensive due to competitive pricing. With the FJ, one person make a part, and as everyone wants it and no one else makes it, they can charge whatever they want for it. I say stop supporting price gouging.

I would disagree on the price gouging. As you correctly pointed out, the 80 series market is a small one, which does lead to less competition. As there is a relatively small market for parts, as compared to Tacomas, Jeeps etc, manufacturers for the 80 series do not enjoy the same economy of scale. As a result, the underlying costs to engineer, test and market these products is practically the same for all vehicles. For Tacomas, this cost can be spread out over tens to hundreds of times the numbers of sales as the 80 series. This just adds up to higher costs for products for these vehicles, R&D is expensive.

If we, as 80 owners, want good quality products for our rigs, we are going to have to shell out $ for them or, make them ourselves. If we want a relatively inexpensive vehicle to mod, respectfully, you are in the wrong place. We need to support the vendors (our vendors) who stick their necks out and take on all the risks associated with running a business. It is not cheap or easy and some just do it because they love it. Nonetheless, support these folks, they support us.
 

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