BEST CARGO BARRIER ? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Beast II
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Matt,
I have heard only good things on the Milford. The installation is invasive and takes a long time. The end result is outstanding.
-B-
I have heard only good things on the Milford. The installation is invasive and takes a long time. The end result is outstanding.
-B-
I haven't heard about the TJM. Can you cough up some details?
- Thread starter
- #5
Here's only pic of the TJM cargo barrier I could find:
http://www.tjmproducts.com.au/products/cargo.html
http://www.tjmproducts.com.au/products/cargo.html
- Thread starter
- #6
Here's the only pic of the TJM cargo barrier I could find:
http://www.tjmproducts.com.au/products/cargo.html
http://www.tjmproducts.com.au/products/cargo.html
Matt:
Good idea - as I keep saying, I'm amazed that this isn't a more popular additon. I recently (Jan) added a Milford barrier and I have been very happy.
The Milford barrier is VERY well made, IMHO high quality barrier, parts, etc and it is crash tested (don't have the figures in front of me, but it can take something like a 120lb hit from 40-50 MPH. In order to acomplish this and not just be a basic dog barrier, you do have to drill a few holes - nothing major.
As you likely know, the barriers are customed designed for specific vehicles, so the barrier looks OEM. Here are some details - black powder coated finish, cut outs with platic protectors and 'flaps' for three child seat anchor straps (critical for me and really the main reason I bought this), 4 point attachment system that allows quick removal of the barrier if needed (likely a 5 minute job) using very heavy duty hardware, ability to mount the barrier either behind the 1st or 2nd row seats (all mounts included - although I don't think you can use the front position if you have a sunroof - but not positive), sits flush with the rear of the 2nd row seats (ie angled slightly to follow seats) and then, just above the seats, goes 'vertical' to the roof = minimal loss in cargo space.
The Barrier also comes with an emergency exit hammer to break glass (in case someone is trapped in the rear). As an indication of the quality, there are plastic 'plates' on the barrier (eg that note the intended vehicle, the 'stats' of the barrier, how to use the exit hammer) and these have anti-rattle backings - what a detail
!
Now for the install. I found the instructions to be 'ok' but not great. The indicated mounting points on the floor seemed to interfere with my child restrains, so I had to move them slightly (after I had drilled the first holes :-[). In the end, I found the best process was to fit the barrier and then work with the mounting brackets to show the exact mounting points.
Once you have ID'd the mounting points, the install is relatively simple - WEAR EYE GOGGLES - lots of small bits of flying sheet metal. I took it really slow and didn't have any problems.
Based on the TMJ picture, the barrier is similar, although the Milford barrier protect the entire part of the rear seat.
Let me know if you want to see pics or more detail. All I know is that I feel MUCH safer with the barrier in place.
Cheers, Hugh
Good idea - as I keep saying, I'm amazed that this isn't a more popular additon. I recently (Jan) added a Milford barrier and I have been very happy.
The Milford barrier is VERY well made, IMHO high quality barrier, parts, etc and it is crash tested (don't have the figures in front of me, but it can take something like a 120lb hit from 40-50 MPH. In order to acomplish this and not just be a basic dog barrier, you do have to drill a few holes - nothing major.
As you likely know, the barriers are customed designed for specific vehicles, so the barrier looks OEM. Here are some details - black powder coated finish, cut outs with platic protectors and 'flaps' for three child seat anchor straps (critical for me and really the main reason I bought this), 4 point attachment system that allows quick removal of the barrier if needed (likely a 5 minute job) using very heavy duty hardware, ability to mount the barrier either behind the 1st or 2nd row seats (all mounts included - although I don't think you can use the front position if you have a sunroof - but not positive), sits flush with the rear of the 2nd row seats (ie angled slightly to follow seats) and then, just above the seats, goes 'vertical' to the roof = minimal loss in cargo space.
The Barrier also comes with an emergency exit hammer to break glass (in case someone is trapped in the rear). As an indication of the quality, there are plastic 'plates' on the barrier (eg that note the intended vehicle, the 'stats' of the barrier, how to use the exit hammer) and these have anti-rattle backings - what a detail
!Now for the install. I found the instructions to be 'ok' but not great. The indicated mounting points on the floor seemed to interfere with my child restrains, so I had to move them slightly (after I had drilled the first holes :-[). In the end, I found the best process was to fit the barrier and then work with the mounting brackets to show the exact mounting points.
Once you have ID'd the mounting points, the install is relatively simple - WEAR EYE GOGGLES - lots of small bits of flying sheet metal. I took it really slow and didn't have any problems.
Based on the TMJ picture, the barrier is similar, although the Milford barrier protect the entire part of the rear seat.
Let me know if you want to see pics or more detail. All I know is that I feel MUCH safer with the barrier in place.
Cheers, Hugh
Keep
GOLD Star
Reading the description of the TJM barrier I noticed it ends with: "So take a load off your mind with an easy to install Australian Made Milford Cargo Barrier." I guess that explains why the look alike. :
Jim Wilkerson of Windy City is selling Milfords at his shop. www.midwestlndcruiser.com
I just ordered my ARB from him. Good guy.
I am affiliated through the club so take the referral however you want.
I just ordered my ARB from him. Good guy.
I am affiliated through the club so take the referral however you want.
-H-
So, does that mean your question was a pad?
Joking aside,
I was wondering the same thing as I have a storage box in the back. Could the bottom be cut off, maybe?
So, does that mean your question was a pad?
Joking aside,
I was wondering the same thing as I have a storage box in the back. Could the bottom be cut off, maybe?
Yes, Milford does make a 1/2 height barrier to use with drawer systems.
I do have a (custom designed) drawer and the full barrier fits behind this drawer. If you use the factory child anchor points like I do, and the drawer allows you to use the anchor point, the full barrier will fit.
Cheers, Hugh
Hugh,
My box touches the seat backs, A full length would not clear.
How far down does the Halfer go?
Regards...Dan
My box touches the seat backs, A full length would not clear.
How far down does the Halfer go?
Regards...Dan
;DRe: BEST CARGO BARRIER ?
C-Dan and Topper:
I haven't seen the 1/2 height barrier in person, but fire off an email to Milford, but based on this picture there seems to be lots of room.
In my case, the barrier was my fist thought (I had quite a nice spin-out in my old 60 with dog and lots of other stuff flying around - even with most of my gear strapped down with ratchet straps. I have twin boys and I didn't feel like having them hurt in an accident.
So, I designed the drawer unit to fit with the barrier. I call them 'City Drawers', they cover 1/2 the back and allow me to use 1 of the rear seats if I really need to. With the barrier it's sort of like a prison transport, but it works
The exterior dimentions are something like 3' long. The top deck is level with the wheel well and covers the well. On top of this goes our dog cage. My drawer fits all the usual stuff - Axe, fire extingisher, first aid kit, tools, etc
I'll post pics later
Cheers, Hugh
C-Dan and Topper:
I haven't seen the 1/2 height barrier in person, but fire off an email to Milford, but based on this picture there seems to be lots of room.
In my case, the barrier was my fist thought (I had quite a nice spin-out in my old 60 with dog and lots of other stuff flying around - even with most of my gear strapped down with ratchet straps. I have twin boys and I didn't feel like having them hurt in an accident.
So, I designed the drawer unit to fit with the barrier. I call them 'City Drawers', they cover 1/2 the back and allow me to use 1 of the rear seats if I really need to. With the barrier it's sort of like a prison transport, but it works
The exterior dimentions are something like 3' long. The top deck is level with the wheel well and covers the well. On top of this goes our dog cage. My drawer fits all the usual stuff - Axe, fire extingisher, first aid kit, tools, etc
I'll post pics later
Cheers, Hugh
Re: BEST CARGO BARRIER ?Matt
ahhhh, you haven't seen the pictures yet
I know that I did the finishing work at the cottage after having one too many While some of the work was done using a table saw, most was completed using a skill saw! They are quite easy to build once you find a good set of heavy duty sliders. I'm still trying to track down some carpet that matches the flooring to cover the box.
Cheers, Hugh
My last two cruisers, a 40 and a 60, had custom (read I made 'em.) drawers in the rear, and I really like the ability to have all of my stuff out of the way and not held down by ratchet straps. Both drawers didn't use any sliders, and I haven't found this to be too inconvenient. With carpet, supplies have run about $100 to make them.
I think I have my weekend project.
-H-
I think I have my weekend project.
-H-
Yep, I've seen lots of different configurations on the Internet. I find that all the gear is heavy enough that a set of sliders is useful, but not necessary. In addition, they are by far the most expensive part of the project (IIRC, mine were 2/3 of the cost).
Even with a cargo box, I think a cargo barrier is a good way to go for a few reasons. My box is secured using the 3rd row seat mounts and 'U' bolts, the box is made of wood and connected together with glue and screws (2" IIRC), the box and gear likely weights something like 125+Lbs.
In any kind of serious accident/rollover, I think the force would be high enough to rip the box out or the box could break sending stuff flying.
As we say in motorcycles - if you have a $50 head, then buy a $50 helmet. Your head is worth more than the $300 cost to buy the barrier.
Cheers, Hugh
Even with a cargo box, I think a cargo barrier is a good way to go for a few reasons. My box is secured using the 3rd row seat mounts and 'U' bolts, the box is made of wood and connected together with glue and screws (2" IIRC), the box and gear likely weights something like 125+Lbs.
In any kind of serious accident/rollover, I think the force would be high enough to rip the box out or the box could break sending stuff flying
.As we say in motorcycles - if you have a $50 head, then buy a $50 helmet. Your head is worth more than the $300 cost to buy the barrier
.Cheers, Hugh
