BEST Birf LUBE for 80's????? (1 Viewer)

[kennyv0826]

I know some people say that the Toyota reccomended CV type lube is best for the 80's Birfields but I ran REDLINE CV-2 in my Toyota mini birfs with good success. I never broke another birf after we switched it to the Redline lube and I was running the heaviest 38.5" bias ply tire availble on a pretty heavy rig that saw A LOT of abuse.

My only concern is that since the 80 is fulltime AWD and I think the Redline lube is a little thicker (at least when cold) will this cause issues or should I be OK??? The tech guy at Redline says it will work great , but I imagine he is a little biased, who knows?

It does say that it "provides load-carrying anti-wear protection far superior to black molybdenum disulfide greases" and its designed for wheel bearings CV joints and other high speed bearings.

Also how much lube will do the birfs take? Will (2) 14oz tubes be enough? It seems like we only used one with the mini axles but I cant remember for sure.

Any input would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Doc]

The best lube is the kind that gets changed when needed, and checked often.

Other than that, you'll recieve about 250 different opinions on here. Even some that run Oil.

 

[LX_TREME]

I use the Amsoil Synthetic Heavy-Duty Grease, NLGI #2, GC/LB (GHD) Extreme-pressure, moly-fortified, you may want to buy 8 tubes just to be safe. I think about 3.5 half each birf well im not quiet sure to remember.Anyway, it nothing wrong to have extra tube handy than short grease.

 

[Beowulf]

Toyota calls for moly grease in the knuckle bearings & knuckles and high-speed wheel bearing (non-moly) in the wheel bearings.

I used the Amsoil synthetic (purple=moly); probably the same stuff LX_TREME posted above.

-B-

 

[kennyv0826]

I use the Amsoil Synthetic Heavy-Duty Grease, NLGI #2, GC/LB (GHD) Extreme-pressure, moly-fortified, you may want to buy 8 tubes just to be safe. I think about 3.5 half each birf well im not quiet sure to remember.Anyway, it nothing wrong to have extra tube handy than short grease.

Thanks for the info, I have always liked Amsoil products. But 8 tubes??? Are they the standard 14oz tubes or smaller ones? How thick is this product compared to the factory lube and about how much does it cost?

Thanks!

 

[Rookie2]

Thanks for the info, I have always liked Amsoil products. But 8 tubes??? Are they the standard 14oz tubes or smaller ones? How thick is this product compared to the factory lube and about how much does it cost?

Thanks!

If you're doing the axle service (cleaning everything out and replacing with new) IIRC, 2- 14 oz tubes per side will have you covered.

I buy the cheap stuff.. Coastal, NIGL 2 with molybedenum. It meets the manufacturers specifications, and I just don't think paying 4 or 5 bucks a tube for synthetic is doing anything for you in this application, especially if you're doing the axle PM every 75 to 100k.

My $0.02.


Rookie2

 

[Junk]

Toyota calls for moly grease in the knuckle bearings & knuckles and high-speed wheel bearing (non-moly) in the wheel bearings.

I used the Amsoil synthetic (purple=moly); probably the same stuff LX_TREME posted above.

-B-

I use both the above when doing the birfs. If you look around local, your local club may have someone that set themselves up as an Amsoil dealer. We have a guy in our local club that gets us everything at dealer cost shipped straight to our shacks. It used to be free if you ordered like $50 worth of stuff or something like that but I think they recently changed their rules like 2 yrs ago or sumpding like that.

 

[chacoetaco]

I use the Amsoil Synthetic Heavy-Duty Grease, NLGI #2, GC/LB (GHD) Extreme-pressure, moly-fortified, you may want to buy 8 tubes just to be safe. I think about 3.5 half each birf well im not quiet sure to remember.Anyway, it nothing wrong to have extra tube handy than short grease.

A few years back I asked SLEE what they prefer, and it's Amsoil.

 

[kennyv0826]

A few years back I asked SLEE what they prefer, and it's Amsoil.

I wonder if they have ever compared it to the Redline before? I would assume its just as good I have two tubes of Redline and want to use them but if the Amsoil is better, I'll use that instead

 

[RavenTai]

I use something out of left field, Aeroshell 17, it is a group V (diester) synthetic based grease with a non melting inorganic thickener and moly. hard to find and not cheap but good,

Better than Amsoil and Redline? dono, but I was familiar with this product so went with it.

the 62 got supertech moly grease from walmart, buck some odd a tube, being part time those birfs may see 5,000 miles in their life.

I could see how a good quality grease could reduce wear, and a worn birf is more prone to failures, but I think it is a bit of a leap to say that grease will prevent a birfield from breaking. it will wear some and eventually will eventually break when abused.

 

[kennyv0826]

I use something out of left field, Aeroshell 17, it is a group V (diester) synthetic based grease with a non melting inorganic thickener and moly. hard to find and not cheap but good,

Better than Amsoil and Redline? dono, but I was familiar with this product so went with it.

the 62 got supertech moly grease from walmart, buck some odd a tube, being part time those birfs may see 5,000 miles in their life.

I could see how a good quality grease could reduce wear, and a worn birf is more prone to failures, but I think it is a bit of a leap to say that grease will prevent a birfield from breaking. it will wear some and eventually will eventually break when abused.

Hmmmm.... never heard of it before. Where did you find it?

I disagree that a good lube wont save a birf. I have no documented proof but I know when I broke my first two birfs in my mini axles that they recieved far less abuse when they broke than the birfs that held up afterwards with no problems what so ever. Redline makes lubricants that are designed to handle a much higher shock load than conventional lubricants and therefore will possibly save a ring/pinion gear or a birfield in a situation where it may otherwise fail. I'm sure Amsoil and the other FULL synthetics are very similar in that regard. Not to say you cant still break something, but the chances are less IMHO.

 

[ats4x4dotcom]

we use Pro - Ma MBL with great success, and use a full cartridge per side so the cv can only stay full, all the time, because the swivel is full.

We use a box or more of cartridges a month in the workshop.

 

[Bear80]

For a CV joint application such as a birfield you need a grease that is a 3% moly blend. I cannot speak for redline or amsoil but most moly grease at chain stores are only a 1.5% blend. Also most grease is supplied in a NLGI #2 or #1. If you see very low temps a #1 would be the one to use or if you can find it, a #0. A #2 is usually the best all around and most carried in stores. Keep in mind that the main advantage of synthetic grease is high dropping points, which is unnecessary in a birfield and only costs more. So after extensive research prior to my service, I narrowed the choices down to Valvoline Palladium Plus (syn blend) or Chevron Moly MAX EP. They are an over kill 5% blend and cheaper than synthetics, however both are very hard to find. So for an available 3% blend grease it came down to Valvoline Palladium, Chevron Moly, or Chevron RPM EP. Palladium can be had at NAPA and the Chevron at any industrial supply shop for a very fair price.

Also there is no way that only 2, 14oz tubes is enough for each side. I used 3-4 per side. Keep in mind that the knuckle housing must be ¾ full of grease and when the joint its self takes nearly one tube, one more cannot fill the housing.

 

[RavenTai]

Hmmmm.... never heard of it before. Where did you find it?

I used to work with it, it is a grease specifically designed for heavily loaded sliding steel parts witch a birf qualifies as.

specs:

http://www.shell-lubricants.com/products/pdf/AeroshellGreases.pdf

 

[turbocruiser]

I use the Amsoil Synthetic Heavy-Duty Grease, NLGI #2, GC/LB (GHD) Extreme-pressure, moly-fortified, you may want to buy 8 tubes just to be safe. I think about 3.5 half each birf well im not quiet sure to remember.Anyway, it nothing wrong to have extra tube handy than short grease.

Agree 100% --- I ordered eight tubes, got part of one still in the grease gun, and got part of one still in the bearing packer tool thingy so roughly 6.something tubes will do ya. 8 tubes are not necessarily too much to order cause you can keep a little extra around for your ten pumps of grease on each and every oil change into the knuckles, and the four pumps per nipple on the shafts also at each and every oil change. BTW, several people here are amsoil dealers, might wanna go through them and share the love a little! HTH.

 

[mabrodis]

Redline is good grease...very thick, but in a birf that shouldn't be a problem I wouldn't think.

To original poster: The 80-series birf is larger than the mini-truck birf, so you will definetly need more grease than you used on your mini-truck. As far as how much, I guesstimated 2 containers (14-16oz) per side, that gave me enough to do the birf, cover every tool I own with grease, all my clothes, and still have a good smear on the garage floor...so plan accordingly.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Amsoil Extreme Moly NLGI #2. I used a single tube on each side, then after it's been run a few weeks I'll pump another half tube in each through the square plug. Dunno why I'm using so much less than others?? If they're getting it in there, then I guess it's best to have that many tubes on hand.

My feeling on lubes is that the amount of time it takes to perform this service begs for the best you can put in there considering it's only 10% of the parts cost and if it's in there for 75k why scrimp?

DougM

 

[Bear80]

My feeling on lubes is that the amount of time it takes to perform this service begs for the best you can put in there considering it's only 10% of the parts cost and if it's in there for 75k why scrimp?

Price on grease is reflective of the base stock it is made from, synthetic or non. The main advantage, although not the only is the high temp capability of synthetic grease. However the important factor in grease for a high pressure, high shock load application such as a birfield is the moly. Moly actually bonds in a way to the metal insuring a minimum metal to metal contact. Simply speaking, the more moly the better, however too much will lead to a "chunky" less uniform and less "smooth" grease. So 5% is the highest blend and reserved for extreme industrial apps while 3% is what automotive CV joints call for and many other non-industrial apps. Moly is not usually called for use in bearings since it can make the balls or rollers just slide and not properly turn. However moly does provide excellent wear protection, which is why many manufactures make a 1.5% blend that can be used in many applications(I would not use it for a birfield). Mobil 1 red synthetic, Valvoline SynPower and Valvoline Durablend are some of the 1.5% blends. The best grease to look for then is a 5% blend if you can find it but at minimum a 3% blend with a high dropping point -- 400-500*F is the highest range for non-synthetics and will experience minimum oil separation.

 

[GeoRoss]

Agree 100% --- I ordered eight tubes, got part of one still in the grease gun, and got part of one still in the bearing packer tool thingy ...

Did you pack your bearings with moly? I ask because I packed my trunion bearins with wheel bearing, not the moly.

 

[turbocruiser]

Did you pack your bearings with moly? I ask because I packed my trunion bearins with wheel bearing, not the moly.

Yes; the Amsoil is rated for wheel bearing work! Best of both worlds IMHO.