Best 3B Turbo? (1 Viewer)

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Hi guys, been a lurker for a while now, finally pulled my finger out and signed up.

I know this question has been asked a lot. I did a search found a lot of posts but its still hasn't answered my questions to my satisfaction because I want to get this right the 1st time.

As the topic says what the best turbo for a 3B considering these factors power/torque (never seen a dyno printout of before and after yet), when the boost comes in, when it makes max boost, reliability is also key and also what boost a 3B can handle with or without and intercooler.

I love diesels, with this 3B 1981 BJ42 being my 1st diesel. I sadly only have the 4 speed, but do have power steering. For a diesel I have no probs doing 110 km/hr or more in fact I have hit 160km/hr before seeing how far it would go, but come to any hill and it drops back to 80km/hr or less. This is the main problem its lack of hill climbing ability, especially in sand dunes. I drive Stockton beach here in Australia regularly and need more power to climb the big dunes.

I have a fair bit of experience and know how when it comes to petrol turbos but nill for diesel turbos. So be specific all you like I will understand when talking about housings, wheel sizes, trims etc. I have helped a mate to re-turbo his nissan skyline GTR with HKS 2530 turbos to make 670+hp at the wheels and break the low mount turbo world record with a 1/4 mile time of 10.32s @ 133mph on street legal tyres. So like this car which is not laggy and has a great powerband I'm after similar response and correct turbo matching for the diesel as in good low down grunt without it running out of puff in the top end.

I want to run a minimum of 1bar or 14.5psi without intercooler and as high as the turbo can flow with intercooler. Taking into consideration the core of the turbo whether its ball bearing or not will obviously determine boost pressures.

Any help will be appreciated especially before and after dyno printouts.

Cheers
 
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Yeah I have thanks but nobody every has any dyno reports like power/torque before and after or at what boost a turbo comes on in the rev range there the sort of things missing. I don't really care about economy because its smiles per gallon not miles per gallon I am after. From those and other threads I just don't get the feel of what each turbo is like. Sure people say they are good and it has more power, well that's a no brainer when you add a turbo you expect more power, but how much power and more importantly torque.

I have the opportunity to buy a TD-04 that has been recond and never used since being rebuilt. I'm not sure what variant it is though. As they came out on cars as small as 1.6L in which case I would deem it to be too small.

I know people say 2.0-2.5L petrol cars turbos from them suit the 3.4L 3B but they made a lot of variants as to size from T25's, T28's and even TO3's There is a big difference there in turbo sizes so that rule of thumb I don't think will always work.

Thanks anyway.
 
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With my G force meter i showed 100hp with 31 inch tires and 411 gears. My set up is the cummins turbo boosting to 12psi pyro running at a max of 850 after the turbo. Very easily hits red line in fourth gear. That about all the backed up information i can give you.
cheers
 
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Diesel Dude said:
With my G force meter i showed 100hp with 31 inch tires and 411 gears. My set up is the cummins turbo boosting to 12psi pyro running at a max of 850 after the turbo. Very easily hits red line in fourth gear. That about all the backed up information i can give you.
cheers

Thanks man that's what I'm looking for. Can you tell me when the turbo comes on at what boost rpm wise? Also what was the Gtech reading before you added the turbo? 80hp flywheel is stock so I spose it would have been 60hp or less from the Gtech? So that would mean you picked up say 50hp at the flywheel for a flywheel figure of say 130hp taking a 30% driveline loss figure into account?

Any chances of you boosting it up to say 14psi for me to see the difference and also isn't 850F EGT very much on the safe side? I have seen people say up to 1250F for EGT's?

BTW I'm running same as you 31's with 4.11's

Oh I just read you have your pyro after the turbo and not before.
 
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Seems to me you have a lot of experience and knowledge with turbos, enough to be able to calculate compressor maps etc. yourself. Arnott has some maps in his build thread. I have never seen anybody do a dyno here on their turbo project--it's all seat of the pants dyno for us [subjective]. The whole point of a homebrew turbo is to get good bang for your buck... dynoing Landcruisers adds $$$ to a homebrew, DIY, save some coin project...

I would do more research on that TD-04 and see if it's the right one as that is reportedly one of the best matches for the 3B, subjectively speaking. I agree that the 2-2.5 L petrol rule for 3B turbos is a little gross, but there is way more info beyond that rule of thumb in these posts (on AR ratios etc. e.g.) to give you better stats to make a choice.

B
 
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Diescipel said:
Seems to me you have a lot of experience and knowledge with turbos, enough to be able to calculate compressor maps etc. yourself. Arnott has some maps in his build thread. I have never seen anybody do a dyno here on their turbo project--it's all seat of the pants dyno for us [subjective]. The whole point of a homebrew turbo is to get good bang for your buck... dynoing Landcruisers adds $$$ to a homebrew, DIY, save some coin project...

I would do more research on that TD-04 and see if it's the right one as that is reportedly one of the best matches for the 3B, subjectively speaking. I agree that the 2-2.5 L petrol rule for 3B turbos is a little gross, but there is way more info beyond that rule of thumb in these posts (on AR ratios etc. e.g.) to give you better stats to make a choice.

B

Yeah my turbo experience is with petrol cars and I could tell you any turbo to match a petrol car its the black art diesels that have thrown me a little and which I have never had any experience with, however I know you want to have a small turbine housing to aid in spool up. The cummins turbos seem to have the biggest compressor housings I have seen with a smallish turbine housing though 9cm is still a big size.

Also AR size is subjective to say the least and you can't just rate a turbo on AR alone, its merely another indicator.

Also my experience with reading compressor maps is all for petrol cars, not diesels and there's a big difference obviously.

Expect me to do before and after dyno reports because seat of the pants is one thing, I like to back it up with dyno reports which will also help in tuning it to get the best results, its just what I'm use to with turboing petrol cars.

Thanks again.
 
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Thanks for the reply Frenchy.

I wish I could read french. Got some good pics on your site there.

I'm not after a kit really although AXT seems to have got it right from what I can see. They seem to have matched the turbo correctly yet they are still only running mild boost so a boost increase over stock should yield even better gains.

I'm not sure though as to what garrett they are actually running though I think it is a BB turbo and GT 25 but exact specs I'm unsure of? I also hear they run more boost than their opponents thus having a higher hp rating, though 100kw is a lot higher than the rest.

I saw on here a link to a round the world custom cruiser with 3B, can't find the thread off hand using a garrett BB turbo GT25 claiming 220hp. This is more up my alley and what I'm after. Having said this I will try the flipped mainfold and home brew turbo setup for starters but eventually I want to do it right matching the turbo nicely, running high boost and making lots of power. I want to push a 3B like this example of 220hp or more, to see what they can really do.
 
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220hp or more !!!!:eek:

ok I am more in the blow:grinpimp:

me I have only 134cv :crybaby:
 
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I have heard very good things about the AXT turbo kit.
Expensive, but it seems to be one of the best.

I have been in a BJ60 fitted with a AXT, and it was very zippy.
I was quite impressed with it over my naturally aspirated BJ60.

Had I ever added a turbo to my BJ60, the AXT would of been at the top of my list.

Cheers,
Nick
 
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yes very expensive!!! close to 3000€ in France:eek:

but it is a reliable assembly or there is little risk of broken the engine
 

Tapage

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if with the stock 13B-T from factory you get 120 HP .. think in a intercooled setup ( remember lineal pump ) at most 140 Hp - 150 HP at wheels I thought are very very good ..

But seriusly 200 HP .. are a lots of horses .. :eek:
 

brownbear

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if you want that much HP, why not just put in a different engine. You seriously are not going to get that power out of a 3b without destroying it.

talk to Peter Straub at RMLC. He runs his 3b with 20 psi boost. It won't be long for this world, but has the power.

Or drop in a cummins. But seriously you got the wrong engine for that kinda power.
 

brownbear

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Also you can get a v8 chebby to bolt up with an adapter for less money than a turbo set, even used turbo set up. It will definately out perform the 3b,

I drive a 3b for economy and low end torque. A turbo just makes it breath a little better on the highway. Not really make it pass anything.
 
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brownbear said:
Also you can get a v8 chebby to bolt up with an adapter for less money than a turbo set, even used turbo set up. It will definately out perform the 3b,

I drive a 3b for economy and low end torque. A turbo just makes it breath a little better on the highway. Not really make it pass anything.

of agreement with you!!!

for me, when I put the turbo one on the 3b I disappointed result, not much more power and the fear of breaking the engine .:frown:

I was likely to find a 13bt which is rare here also, but if not I will have gone up the 3b has the origin;)
 
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yea me too. Ithink getting an engine swap for a 13bt is much more economical. Putting a turbo on a NA engine might cause heaps of problems in terms of realibility.

For a bit more money a minor changes go for the 14bt and enjoy a long life for the car down the road
 
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Ok what's the differences between the 13BT and the 3B I know obviously its lower compression, like the 13BT is around 17:1 But are the parts stronger, like rods, pistons, crank? Or does a 3B use the same rods and crank as a 13BT, knowing how toyotas part swap? Why couldn't I change the pistons in the 3B for 13BT's?

Unless it has forged pistons then even though it has lower compression, it should handle the same as a 3B if both have cast pistons.

I know 13BT have direct injection and the 3B has indirect, what are the benefits to DI compared to IDI.

The way I see it and I could be very wrong as I'm a diesel newb, a fresh set of bearings in the old girl should be fine to run an easy 20psi. Providing the turbo I select is still in its efficency range at this boost level like all modern GT garretts are, the turbo will be fine and reliable. I don't see any probs with cracking a diesel block! Toyota rods and cranks are well known for their strength and over-engineering.

14BT cost about $7,700 AUD here and no doubt its a nice engine.

About $10K AUD for a 6.2L Chevy diesel, now that seems like a nice setup, but I'd rather stick with toyo bits.

Basic rule I use for gasser turbos is 100% over stock is usually fine. with stock internals. So say a 13BT at 120hp = 240hp at a 100% increase.

@ $5,500 AUD for a 13BT here I don't think its worth the money, plus I would want to change the stock CT-26 as they cost a packet to rebuild anyway.

I could also go with a 1HZ and turbo it. It would run about the same as a 13BT by the time I get the turbo also.

Anything higher than 14psi and I would definitely run an intercooler. Though for some of the driving I do like on the beach where speeds are rarely higher than say 70km/hr a front mount air to air is not really efficient or really even working because of the lack of air flow that's why I was thinking of going for a water to air setup.

I may even have an opportunity to buy a HKS GT2530 which should be an excellent match for the 3B if not the best you could buy. My mates GTR blew an oil seal in the rear turbo and they can't be rebuilt unless he just uses an off the shelf garrett core. HKS got the pick of the bunch of garrett turbos and unfortunately you can't buy parts for them from garrett. So whilst 1 is stuffed the other is fine and these can flow hp. It runs out of puff at 34psi but makes about 400hp per turbo at that boost level, even though they are only rated at 320hp.
 
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I have a Garrett T3 out of a Chrysler LeBaron (.42 & .48 AR's). Before turbo I couldn't maintain 100 kph on the highway up a hill and had EGT's pushing 1200-1400 F all the time.

Now with the turbo I've brought the truck to 130 kph (once!) and can easily maintain 100-110 kph up a hill with EGT's barely approaching 850 F (post-turbo).

I don't know how that translates on a dyno, but it is a BRAND NEW TRUCK. Much more comfortable to drive and has no trouble keeping up. I even pass a semi now and then.

I haven't touched the fuel yet, and I'm running 10 lbs of boost. Yes Peter Straub (my brother-in-law), has his wastegate tied wide open, and he has cranked the fuel till it wouldn't go anymore. His EGT's go throught the roof if he does over 40 kph, but it has lots of jam. He is running 53" tires though, and he only expects to use that power for 10 seconds at a time so take that with a grain of salt.

Bottom line, if you want a racetruck, get a Cummins.

Craig.
 

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