Bent tie rod - repair or replace? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Aug 26, 2004
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Location
Folsom, CA
Appears I bent my tie rod at Rubithon this year and it now occasionally hits the front drive line when turning right uphill. Is this something I can straighten (I don't believe it is anything other than mild steel) or should I replace it? If the latter, looking for sources for OEM, used or otherwise, or recommendations if there is a benefit to an aftermarket version. As a weak link I think I would rather bend the tie rod than fail the knuckle studs, so it seems making it stronger might be counter productive.

Regards,

Rod
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Id just grab a usedone off of a part out rig and run it. You could sleeve it and reinstall also.

As well bud built makes an upgrade, perhaps slee too, but you are correct in prefering this to be your “fuse” in the front system to go first. Lot cheaper to replace and easy enough to trail fix to get home.
 
Agree on running stock rods, also, with caster correction clearance can be an issue. We have stuck them in the press to mangle some straight back into them. As long as you get them totally straight, the first time is largely successful, after that they bend significantly easier.

IIRC, Cruiser Outfitters has good OEM type replacements. Locally some have started running the ~$11 ones from https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...91,steering,tie+rod+end+adjusting+sleeve,7432 they appear to be about the same as OE and at that price, don't care about abusing them. :hillbilly:
 
Have straightened many of them on the trail. Just run winch cable under axle housing and hit the GO button!
 
Do you have caster plates? I did a Chevy 1 ton joint upgrade on mine and 2 other rigs. This allowed us to fine tune the height with a thicker dom tie rod. To get tie rod in the correct position to not make noise and hit the radius arms or diff.

My tie rod was s shaped I kept getting in to it and straigtining. Endless battle no issues since upgrading. Still have some material and tooling I bought. Might be willing to do. Core cost on the reem as it’s a $100 tool
 
Do you have caster plates? I did a Chevy 1 ton joint upgrade on mine and 2 other rigs. This allowed us to fine tune the height with a thicker dom tie rod. To get tie rod in the correct position to not make noise and hit the radius arms or diff.

My tie rod was s shaped I kept getting in to it and straigtining. Endless battle no issues since upgrading. Still have some material and tooling I bought. Might be willing to do. Core cost on the reem as it’s a $100 tool


Yes - I have the caster correction arms to go with the 2.5" OME lift. I think I will stick with the original diameter rod, though. First time I have bent it (that I know of!) in 14 years and would rather have it get bent as a warning than to lose the knuckle studs on the trail. AFAIK, the steel is just 1020 or similar, so I am looking at the replacement rods at Rockauto suggested by Tools R Us.
 
I think it would be something more than mild steel.
I agree with comments above, once bent and straightened, it will likely bend more easily in the future.

I used to wheel with my uncle in an old land rover defender, after straightening the tie rod repeatedly, it got to the point where it would bend after putting a front wheel into a rut
 

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