Bending H55F shifter (1 Viewer)

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Spook50

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I want to bend my shifter so it sits in a more comfortable spot for me to reach while driving. Going to use a torch to heat it up and a pipe for leverage. My question though, is the thicker portion solid all the way through, or is it a second piece of steel sleeved over a smaller piece? I'd like to bend it where I've made the faint scribe line shown in the pic (just above the yellow printing), but wondering if I can only realistically bend it in the narrow section a ways above where I marked.

IMG_20200516_145626.jpg
 
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There's rubber between the upper and lower halves (in the thick part).

Can't heat and bend it there...

I pie cut mine right above the ball at the base...bent it...and re-welded.

Moved the shift knob about 1.5-2" towards the passenger side. Perfect for me, it's right where my hand reaches now, and I can shift into reverse without having to tuck my right knee under the steering wheel.

I think there's a pic in my old build thread...linked on page 1 of my Vortec swap thread in my signature.
EDIT: link = "Revamp" - My project FJ60 (SBC + Ranger OD / OME / etc...)

- Brian
 
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Here is how I did it.

Last picture in that linked post. Brass jaw vice. Some sort of weird anti-heat goo my buddy had. Fire.
 
It was a long time ago but I heated it with a torch at the existing (remember it was solid here) bend and tweaked it closer to to the drivers side, mine was originally from a RHD.
 
I just did this about 3 weeks ago. Orion is absolutely right and I learned about it through trial and error. They are two piece and you definitely want to work on the lower section. I’m still trying to find the best solution for securing the outer piece back to the inner shaft. Like Klinetime said, starting a smoldering fire is very possible. Ask me how I know :). The obvious purpose of this setup is for Dampening purposes. I felt really bad as the one I worked on was a brand new shifter from Toyota. I put a 5-speed in an 83 and since the bell housing was not clocked it was hitting your knee.
 
I just did this about 3 weeks ago. Orion is absolutely right and I learned about it through trial and error. They are two piece and you definitely want to work on the lower section. I’m still trying to find the best solution for securing the outer piece back to the inner shaft. Like Klinetime said, starting a smoldering fire is very possible. Ask me how I know :). The obvious purpose of this setup is for Dampening purposes. I felt really bad as the one I worked on was a brand new shifter from Toyota. I put a 5-speed in an 83 and since the bell housing was not clocked it was hitting your knee.
Yup I did just that. No fire but the upper part slipped off the lower :rolleyes: I quickly reinstalled it while the rubber was still hot, but not sure if it'll secure properly after that. This was before the very bottom part even got hot enough to be able to bend, and using anti heat gel. Anti heat helps sometimes, but not enough in this instance! Pondering if I should just say screw it and get a late 60 LHD shifter rather than keep messing with this one. I am using the late model bellhousing and crossmember, so it IS clocked and I'm wondering if I shouldn't have to bend it at all with a LHD shifter. Gonna have to find the right part number....
 
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@CenTXFJ60 I think I MAY have found a solution for securing the outer/upper portion of the shifter to the lower. When my rubber heated up and softened up enough for the two to separate, I saw that there was still rubber adhered to the steel on both parts. So I looked at some vulcanizing cements that are used for retreading tires, and found this at the Advance Auto Parts near me. They don't keep it on the shelf, and I had to tell them what I was looking for. Problem is I can't find any info on cure time for it. So I'll give it as long as I can then see if the upper portion is secure enough to not twist when I shift. If not, I'll just use my welder and tack the two parts together on the bottom seam :hillbilly:

 
@CenTXFJ60 I think I MAY have found a solution for securing the outer/upper portion of the shifter to the lower. When my rubber heated up and softened up enough for the two to separate, I saw that there was still rubber adhered to the steel on both parts. So I looked at some vulcanizing cements that are used for retreading tires, and found this at the Advance Auto Parts near me. They don't keep it on the shelf, and I had to tell them what I was looking for. Problem is I can't find any info on cure time for it. So I'll give it as long as I can then see if the upper portion is secure enough to not twist when I shift. If not, I'll just use my welder and tack the two parts together on the bottom seam :hillbilly:

Man that is awesome information and appreciate you sharing it. Copying my brother @iCruiser whose truck we put the new H55 in. Look forward to hearing how it works out. Thanks. Jimmy
 
Man that is awesome information and appreciate you sharing it. Copying my brother @iCruiser whose truck we put the new H55 in. Look forward to hearing how it works out. Thanks. Jimmy
I put it on about four hours ago and it's still pretty easy to move. I tried only a light jostle so I wouldn't tear apart anything that's already vulcanized (or starting to). Given the location of where it is I imagine it could be a couple days before it's at full strength. I've got the downtime for it though, since I'm starting the OME install tomorrow morning :smokin:

I'll let it go until the last minute and if it's still loose I'll just put a few tacks on the bottom seam.
 
So the rubber cement was a no go. Me being who I am I said screw it and tacked the base of the upper part to the lower. Easy-peasy, but the lower section of rubber (as expected) burst into flames so I had to blow it out and then just keep air moving over it to stop the rubber from smouldering. I did this after each of the four tacks and from what I could see I only lost the very bottom end of the lower rubber bushing/lining. Quick paint job to pretty it up until I take it and a handful of other parts to powder coat, and it's great. Got it bent just the way I want it and it's far easier to reach now without hitting anything. I think the only issue will be if I have Big Gulp sized cups in the cupholder of my Tuffy once I get it modified and reinstalled.

Shifter 01 - Tacked.jpg


First, Second, Fifth, and Reverse:

Shifter 02 - 1st.jpg


Shifter 03 - 2nd.jpg


Shifter 04 - 5th.jpg


Shifter 05 - Rev.jpg
 
I have twin stick envy. Nice paracord wrap btw.

Did you bend above and below the shifter boot? Don’t think I’ve seen one done like that before, looks good!
 
I have twin stick envy. Nice paracord wrap btw.

Did you bend above and below the shifter boot? Don’t think I’ve seen one done like that before, looks good!
Thanks. I still have to tweak the twin sticks a bit to get them right where I want them, but for the tranny shifter yeah I bent it at the point where the upper just starts to flare out, and also (this took some more work and care with the oxyacetylene torch) on the "base" part just below where I tacked the upper portion into place. It's definitely unique, but works beautifully for me.

The steering wheel wrap I just did a few weeks ago with some other pretty-ing up of the steering wheel and column. I'll be posting about that soon once I schlog through all the new pics on my phone.
 

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