Bemerritt Builds a 1970 (5 Viewers)

65swb45

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Sorry I didn’t get back to you Brian. As you saw from my own posting, my truck was under the knife, and I was super-focused on getting back on the road. Now I’m going to be in a bums rush: I’ve got plans to head out again next week!

ive got a stack of alternator pulleys and crank locknuts, but no bellhousings to spare.
 
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Sorry I didn’t get back to you Brian. As you saw from my own posting, my truck was under the knife, and I was super-focused on getting back on the road. Now I’m going to be in a bums rush: I’ve got plans to head out again next week!

ive got a stack of alternator pulleys and crank locknuts, but no bellhousings to spare.
No worries Mark, get it back on the road to enjoy!
 
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Made some progress on the sliders. First time really using a notcher, so that was fun. I have always wanted to make my own sliders and other "armor" for offroading, so excited to get it under way.

Goal is to keep the oem step and provide protection to it as well as some to the lower corner of the fender. Hard to tell from the angle, but the center of the slider is right in line with the edge of the step.

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Ran out of welding gas on the long holiday weekend....so I decided to drop in the engine to start getting everything mocked up. Will still pull it all apart to fully weld up all items to the frame, clean off the old coating/rust and paint/por 15.

In it goes!
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Even after looking at disassembly photos, I htought I put the front engine mounts on opposite sides since the engine was so far to the driver side. Flipped them and I definitely had it right. So swapping that back and forth was extra fun.

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Then moved onto the throttle linkage. Got all my parts from redline. The adapter that mounts to the intake manifold was hitting the brake booster, so I had to make my own to pull it from the front. Happy with how it turned out.

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Original gas pedal, just had to bend the spring a little.

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cruisermatt

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can you post up a few more pics showing clearance around booster and sniper?
 

65swb45

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You need to fold the locktabs on the harmonic balancer nut.😉
 
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Did similar on my front springs.To check before welding all in mounted top spring only and drew down to flat and inverted to check travel of shackle.(flat clearance then as inverts starts back). Yours is looking good your doing good job posting picture's,I'm to tech challenged too.lol
 
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can you post up a few more pics showing clearance around booster and sniper?

It was within millimeters. I didnt have my rear engine mounts so it was tilted back a little more than usual. Once i put it in for good in a couple weeks, I'll try and grab a pic.

You need to fold the locktabs on the harmonic balancer nut.😉

Thanks Mark! Now that the bell housing is on I should crank it down. While i have you, any recommendation for an extension for the brake push rod? It seems I need to extend it about 4 inches or so when using your adapter.

Thanks!
 
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Big things this weekend. Sliders got tacked in place so i could strip down the frame for finish welding, cleanup, and POR 15. Here is how it sits....

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But getting there was quite the journey. Moved most of it myself other tha nmy wife helping me remove the top and my father helping me put it back on. Picker helped a lot, will probably lose one fingernail I smashed in the process.

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Tight squeeze playing tetris with no one to help and only one way to lift heavy items. This was definitely one of those times that it took me a long time to accomplish very little. But now the shop is all cleaned up for the next phase.

Weld/clean/paint frame
Mount engine
Rebuild axles and mount
have a roller by the end of the year

Questions I have:
- Does anyone know how far back I need to move the support brace to accommodate the 5 speed and split transfer case. Ordering that in about 2 months, but I'd like to be ready to drop it in. Thanks!
 

cruisermatt

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H55f + splitcase is 24” from transmission/bellhousing mating surface (same as 3-speed) to tcase output.

Crossmember is 22” from bellhousing mating surface. So at least 3” for everything to clear, however I’m about to put an h55f into a 70 here and going to move the crossmember all the way back to around the spring hanger to allow plenty of room to work around and service the transfer case.

Unrelated, but since you are going to plumb your entire brake line system from scratch (assuming you aren't planning to reuse any of the 9mm stuff), highly recommend you pick up a few sets of my brake line mounting tabs (made exactly for Toyota 10mm hoses and clips).

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H55f + splitcase is 24” from transmission/bellhousing mating surface (same as 3-speed) to tcase output.

Crossmember is 22” from bellhousing mating surface. So at least 3” for everything to clear, however I’m about to put an h55f into a 70 here and going to move the crossmember all the way back to around the spring hanger to allow plenty of room to work around and service the transfer case.

Unrelated, but since you are going to plumb your entire brake line system from scratch (assuming you aren't planning to reuse any of the 9mm stuff), highly recommend you pick up a few sets of my brake line mounting tabs (made exactly for Toyota 10mm hoses and clips).

View attachment 3186104View attachment 3186105
Thanks for the measurement! And thanks for the shout out for those tabs, I'll take a look. Definitely going dual circuit with a booster, proportioning valve, and all 10mm.
 
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Nice work on the F rebuild! I like how that PS bracket mounts up with the alternator relocated. I have a scout box I am considering swapping to and that looks really clean. Are you going to be able to keep the F air cleaner?

Also interested in the booster/MC to sniper clearances. My rib is already half cut, so I may modify or make my own bracket to strike some middle ground
 
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