Bedroom Bathroom Remodel Questions
- Thread starter TomH
- Start date
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- #62
Got a few hours in today an installed the 6x6 posts. Overall I'm satisfied how this came out. It's not perfect but I think it is far better than it was. Still have a little work left to wrap it up, then I can move upstairs to the kitchen.
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- #63
Still have a little work to do in the basement but I think most of the big stuff is done. Still have an issue with a floor joist that needs to be replaced which of couse has plumbing running through it, but I may put this off until after the kitchen is done. More detail to follow...
In the meantime, just for fun, I ran some numbers on the cost of installing the two new support beams, just in case someone else was thinking about doing this. Total was about $1200, not counting any materials I already had like screws, nails, misc lumber, etc.
In the meantime, just for fun, I ran some numbers on the cost of installing the two new support beams, just in case someone else was thinking about doing this. Total was about $1200, not counting any materials I already had like screws, nails, misc lumber, etc.
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- #65
Sometimes I wonder where all the time goes. It's not like I haven't been working on this but I haven't managed to get any long periods of time. A couple hours here and a couple there. Most of the time has been spent cleaning up all the clutter that never seems to go away.
I pulled the few cabinets that were in the kitchen and since I didn't really want to let them go, I installed them in the garage. Of course this required cleaning the garage and getting sidetracked on a Norcold project - which still isn't done. Then there has been little league games and T-ball games and school events. Can't forget Easter and the annual trip to the Skagit Valley Tulip Festival.
Anyway, I thought I would have a full day to work on it tomorrow but was just informed that isn't the case. I'll have most of the day though. My plan is to gut it the rest of the way. Remove the lowered ceiling, remove the 1x6 and wainscoting on the walls and hopefully get down to studs.
Started playing around with it tonight and found a little surprise. Seems back in the day they used metal 7Up signs to cover up the rotten wood. There were two signs, one on the floor and one on the wall with 1954 dates on them. I have a couple other metal signs I found on the storefront when I tore that down. I know, some people find bags of money, I find metal signs.
I pulled the few cabinets that were in the kitchen and since I didn't really want to let them go, I installed them in the garage. Of course this required cleaning the garage and getting sidetracked on a Norcold project - which still isn't done. Then there has been little league games and T-ball games and school events. Can't forget Easter and the annual trip to the Skagit Valley Tulip Festival.
Anyway, I thought I would have a full day to work on it tomorrow but was just informed that isn't the case. I'll have most of the day though. My plan is to gut it the rest of the way. Remove the lowered ceiling, remove the 1x6 and wainscoting on the walls and hopefully get down to studs.
Started playing around with it tonight and found a little surprise. Seems back in the day they used metal 7Up signs to cover up the rotten wood. There were two signs, one on the floor and one on the wall with 1954 dates on them. I have a couple other metal signs I found on the storefront when I tore that down. I know, some people find bags of money, I find metal signs.
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- Thread starter
- #66
The rotten floor wasn't a surprise - I knew the condition and knew it had to be fixed. I'll have to cut out the floor between three of the floor joists so probably a hole about 32 x 96. Not a big deal - right? Well, it just so happens there is a wall in the middle of that 32 inches and of course it is a load bearing wall that is supporting the roof.
I figure I'll pick up a beam of some sort, maybe find a lam-beam on Craigslist and put up a temporary support so I can remove the wall and fix the floor. Those new beams I installed in the basement should hold everything up just fine.
I still haven't figured out the original layout of the house. I'm guessing the bathroom was on the opposite side of the wall. Seems there would have to be water to have so much rotten wood.
A couple pics of the rotted floor/wall.
I figure I'll pick up a beam of some sort, maybe find a lam-beam on Craigslist and put up a temporary support so I can remove the wall and fix the floor. Those new beams I installed in the basement should hold everything up just fine.
I still haven't figured out the original layout of the house. I'm guessing the bathroom was on the opposite side of the wall. Seems there would have to be water to have so much rotten wood.
A couple pics of the rotted floor/wall.
Holy crap you have your work cut out for you. That's a lot of rot.
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- #68
Yeah - that must have been years of leaking. I don't think fixing it will be as hard as what I did today. Got the whole room gutted. The 1x8 on the walls was the worst. I'm pretty worn out at this point - you probably won't hear from me again for a month.
I'll just post a few pics. Not much to say about tearing stuff apart.
Before.
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- #71
Back at it - chasing down rot wherever I can find it, which in this house appears to be everywhere. Had some time Friday but not a real good plan so I figured I'd start removing siding since I knew it would have to be done eventually to get a new window installed in the kitchen.
I got the top layer of tiles off and decided to pull the fake brick off the bottom to see what was there. I knew it wasn't going to be pretty and was pretty sure I'd be building a new pony wall between the foundation and the house. I was right. I ended up working about 10 hours Friday and another 10 hours Sunday.
I'm pretty sure the house was originally post and beam and the foundation was added at some point. There were posts about every three feet on the foundation and they were rotten. I suspect there was dirt up against the side of the house for some time that caused the problem. It has been pretty apparent that the PO's fixes consisted of just covering up the problems.
Anyway - I've been here before. Got about half of this side done and I think the second half will go a lot faster. I can see a couple of 4x6's that I put in when I removed the store front 10 years ago. I hope I did a good job back then and won't have to mess with that part.
I've also decided this asbestos tile is not going back on. At this point, I'm better off just installing Hardiplank. I think I can get most, if not all of the house done this year.
Now for the pictures.
1. Tile removed showing fake brick
2. Rotted cedar under the brick
3. Cedar removed
I got the top layer of tiles off and decided to pull the fake brick off the bottom to see what was there. I knew it wasn't going to be pretty and was pretty sure I'd be building a new pony wall between the foundation and the house. I was right. I ended up working about 10 hours Friday and another 10 hours Sunday.
I'm pretty sure the house was originally post and beam and the foundation was added at some point. There were posts about every three feet on the foundation and they were rotten. I suspect there was dirt up against the side of the house for some time that caused the problem. It has been pretty apparent that the PO's fixes consisted of just covering up the problems.
Anyway - I've been here before. Got about half of this side done and I think the second half will go a lot faster. I can see a couple of 4x6's that I put in when I removed the store front 10 years ago. I hope I did a good job back then and won't have to mess with that part.
I've also decided this asbestos tile is not going back on. At this point, I'm better off just installing Hardiplank. I think I can get most, if not all of the house done this year.
Now for the pictures.
1. Tile removed showing fake brick
2. Rotted cedar under the brick
3. Cedar removed
- Thread starter
- #72
More pictures.
- Rotten posts
- Supporting the house. Thought I was done with this - had to dig out my timbers again.
- Hired help. I know eventually they will be a big help. Right now they are learning to fetch tools, which really does help a lot.
BulletHead
Village Idiot
Every time you come down to the basement, you will be glad you installed the wood (Doug Fir?) beams instead of the LVL or glulam. They look bad ass and much more pleasing to the eye. Awsome work. 
What are the loads on those posts and beams? Overkill? Not complaining, but I like the sound of overkill. Maybe you have to take earthquakes etc into account when doing a load spec in that part of the world?
What are the loads on those posts and beams? Overkill? Not complaining, but I like the sound of overkill. Maybe you have to take earthquakes etc into account when doing a load spec in that part of the world?
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- #75
Every time you come down to the basement, you will be glad you installed the wood (Doug Fir?) beams instead of the LVL or glulam. They look bad ass and much more pleasing to the eye. Awsome work.
My plan was to eventually cover them with drywall – but you may be on to something here. This is something to think about in the future.
I haven’t calculated any loads but like to think I am going a little overkill. The one original beam in the house is a 6x6 and has a couple extra posts. It’s also carrying a bit more load based on roof design. I figured using a 6x8 should be more than enough for span and load. The 2x8 floor joists are right at the max span of 12 feet according to the span tables, but these are rough cut so that should give them a little more strength. The one thing I know for sure is the house is better supported now than it has been for at least the past 50 years.
BulletHead
Village Idiot
When I eliminated a load bearing wall in the LR, instead of using LVLs and covering them with drywall, I used old growth Doug. Fir and exposed them, they look amazing.
Sounds like you are thinking of finishing the basement? This way, you can leave the posts exposed and enjoy the raw look.
Sounds like you are thinking of finishing the basement? This way, you can leave the posts exposed and enjoy the raw look.
Wow the fake brick tile brings back so many memories of my grandfathers home. His house was built in 1920, that must have been all the rage back then.
Excellent work btw. Where did you acquire your skills?
Zack
Excellent work btw. Where did you acquire your skills?
Zack
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- #78
I think the fake brick was popular from about 1930 to 1950.
Like any trade, you learn by doing. I worked with a guy for a while and we did some remodel and new construction work.
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- #79
Well, the siding is 22% asbestos - it was confirmed last week by the inspector who stopped by to visit. Removing the siding has to be treated as an abatement project. This means I need a permit, have to post signs, wet the siding before removal, put it in a box wrapped in two layers of 6 mil plastic, wrap the box in another layer of 6 mil plastic, and take it to an asbestos waste place. Plus probably a couple other things. All fairly costly. Oh well, just another bump in the road.
After getting the siding properly disposed of, I finished up the rest of the wall. Nothing to exciting, a little jacking, some high strength grout to level and patch some areas, and a small wall.
I decided I need to continue working the rot on the foundation. I was poking around a little yesterday and found a couple areas that need attention. Figure I may as well do it all now. I've already repaired about 2/3 so I may as well finish it up. Hopefully I can move through it pretty quickly.
A few pics.
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