Bed liner

Joined
Feb 3, 2005
Messages
206
Hey does anyone know of a Rattle can Bed Liner something I could spray on my floorpans myself?

Thanks
Brandon
 

74fj40

 
Joined
Mar 12, 2005
Messages
2,797
Location
Littleton, Colorado
I thought about getting that but decided not to. i bought one gallon of herculiner, it came as a kit from checker. with rollers and brushes. well worth it
 
Joined
Sep 23, 2004
Messages
209
Location
Ride in VA now in NOVA
Yes there is such a thing, one variety is made from duplicolor. You can get it at any auto store and occasionally at lowes or h-depot. I just finished with putting in the durabek in the majority of the tub but did the hard top and under the dash with the rattle can. Its not the best stuff but if applied heavy enough its pretty durable, just make sure to scuff the surface with 60 grit or so to get good adhesion.
For the money get some herk, durabek or rino etc. its worth the extra$$$
I elected for the dura because its a smother finish...easier to clean.

Peace
Neal
 
Joined
Jan 4, 2005
Messages
57
Location
Alabama
The duplicolor spray can liner is much finer and thinner in its spray pattern but is handy..... You can also buy a cheap "rocker shutz" type spray gun from a paint store and get good results spraying yourself that way. Either way if your spraying bare, or rusty or rusty/mixed with paint/metal, I'd strip, clean, and treat with por 15, zero rust, or an epoxy primer before laying the bed liner on top.
 
Joined
Sep 14, 2003
Messages
321
Location
Yorktown, Va
I am on the same page as everybody else, go with the herc, it is worth it. i used a lot of the spray can stuff and it flakes off easy. Herc sticks a lot better and can take a beating.
 

green73

 
 
 
Joined
Sep 18, 2002
Messages
1,191
Location
Rosamond Ca.
At $35 a gallon I thought the Duplicolor stuff was worth a try. I got 3 gallons and some good self etching primer for my aluminum tub. I also shot it with a $20 "Wally World" spray gun and have an excellent finish. The only problem I have is that it dried really brittle, and instead of scratching it flakes off. On the plus side of it it took a couple of coats of krylon and color matched really well. All in all I have less than $150 in coating the tub and it looks good, but isn't all that durable. Would I do it again using the duplicolor stuff? No, I should have taken it to the professionals.
 

haystax

 
 
Joined
Mar 9, 2004
Messages
1,264
Location
Diamond Valley, Nevada
After Durabak-ing my tub - I wish I had just waited and had it sprayed on by the pros, not too pleased with the results after one year of use - just isn't tough or thick enough, now I guess I will just throw another gallon over the top and see how that goes
 

desertdude

SILVER Star
 
 
Joined
Nov 29, 2003
Messages
3,301
Location
Arizona
I herc'ed mine - after a liberal coat of POR15 - click desertdude in my signature and check out the cruiser painting photos
 
Joined
Jan 4, 2005
Messages
57
Location
Alabama
By trial and error I concluded bed liner does not like to stick to bare or ill prepared metal like it does to por 15 (roughed up) or epoxy primer. I even had the spray can duplicolor take on a much different and tougher characteristic sprayed over por 15, while sprayed over clean, yet bare metal, have it flake off. Really just like paint work in my opinion, which is 95% about the prep work of whats underneath, and 5% about the last coat on top.
 

ken_79-fj40

 
 
 
Joined
Jul 2, 2002
Messages
1,373
Location
New Hampshire
I've used a few cans of the duplicolor stuff to do the perimeter of the tub. Along the top edge and the in the doorjamb area. I also used it to spray my tire carrier so it would match my linex'ed bumpers. The stuff isn't super durable, but it looks decent. I would never use it as a total floor covering, but it works good for what I used it for.
 

haystax

 
 
Joined
Mar 9, 2004
Messages
1,264
Location
Diamond Valley, Nevada
I called the Durabak guy in Denver and personally asked him what surface prep I should do, I completely sandblasted the tub and he said that I wouldn't need etching primer or POR-15 and sandblasted metal is the ideal surfce - I say BS, you need primer
 

Scottb

 
Joined
Mar 13, 2004
Messages
274
Location
Lakewood, CO.
I wired wheel most of my tube, but I sandblasted the rest. It stuck way better to the sandblast, and I put on 2 heavy coats.
haystax said:
I called the Durabak guy in Denver and personally asked him what surface prep I should do, I completely sandblasted the tub and he said that I wouldn't need etching primer or POR-15 and sandblasted metal is the ideal surfce - I say BS, you need primer
 
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Sparky_Mark

 
 
Joined
Mar 13, 2003
Messages
192
Location
Raleign / Durham, NC
There are 3 "levels" of bedliner coating...

Single Component (Durabak, Herculiner, etc). Price is less than $100.

2 Component (SEM, Gator Guard, etc). Best applied with a Schutz (undercoating) gun. About $100 - $175.

High Heat, 2 component (Rhino Liner, Line X). Must be applied professionally because of equiptment. Cost is several hundred dollars.


2 component urethane coatings will perform better (adhesion, durability, etc) than single component coatings. High Heat systems will outperform 2 component DIY systems. Depends on what you want to spend.

Prep is critical. Sandblasted metal with a 2 component urethane primer would give you the best mechanical / chemical adhesion for DIY systems. (There are better coatings for this than POR).

I blasted to bare metal, sprayed a 2 component urethane primer, then followed up with SEM 2 component bedliner applied with an undercoating gun for a consistent film build to 3/16". No delamination, it's not 'sharp' because it doesn't have rubber bits, been satisfied so far. Cost was about $200 including the primer.

The extra money was well worth it, but this is all just my opinion (but backed by my former cube mate who is an automotive paint engineer).
 
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