Beck Arnley wheel cylinders (1 Viewer)

[Bob the Welder]

I'm in the process of replacing most of the braking components. New drums, shoes, all 4 rear wheel cylinders, all hard brake lines and new master cylinder too. I can't get anymore air out of the brake lines. I've ran 2 large bottles of dot 3 through. Pedal goes right to the floor. It stiffens up with a couple pumps but I can still spin the rear wheels by hand while Wifey is standing on the brakes. I'm really frustrated... any idea what to check?

 

[B y r o n]

Did you bench bleed the master before installing it?

 

[Bob the Welder]

Did you bench bleed the master before installing it?

I did bench bleed the master cylinder. I've read posts about "burping" the wheel cylinders to remove air pockets with aftermarket replacements. Do the Beck Arnley cylinders require this? Also how tight should I adjust the shoes?

 

[thebigredrocker]

I searched using terms “brake pedal floor” and “brake floor air”
Maybe one of these will help
Brake Issues

Brake Problems

Brake question for people way smarter than me?

Brakes bled and still not good

Brake issues : ALL NEW COMPONENTS ON 1966 FJ 45 -SPONGY BRAKES

 

[John McVicker]

If you've got 4 wheel drums in all probability you need to adjust each shoe tighter. You won't find this in the FSM but here is how I adjust mine :

Tighten each wheel until you can not turn it by hand. Then back off 1 click...maybe 2 clicks. Go for a test drive, hit the brakes hard. Make necessary adjustments to not have any pulls to either side. If necessary back off 1 more click, but no more.

Let the drums cool, go for a 1-2 mile drive, do not use the brakes. Coast to a stop. Get out and feel the drums again. Warm is fine, hot means back off another click. Repeat this test until you are satisfied.

It can be a long road to get what you want.

Go to the FAQ & look up some post by Poser. Do some searching for brake adjustments by Pin_head. Again, it can be a long road to success.

 

[Curt]

I had an issue with the beck arnley wheel cylinders. They trap air at the top of the cylinder. I just kept driving and gravity bleeding them till all the air was out and now the pedal is high, firm and full brakes.

 

[Bob the Welder]

If you've got 4 wheel drums in all probability you need to adjust each shoe tighter. You won't find this in the FSM but here is how I adjust mine :

Tighten each wheel until you can not turn it by hand. Then back off 1 click...maybe 2 clicks. Go for a test drive, hit the brakes hard. I have disc brakes up front. So I should tighten all 4 rear wheel cylinders till I can't turn the "Tires"by hand? Or are you talking about the adjuster "Wheel"? Then back off 1 or 2 clicks?

 

[Bob the Welder]

Am i tightening till I can't turn the wheel/tire? Or are you talking about tightening the adjuster "wheel"?

 

[John McVicker]

Am i tightening till I can't turn the wheel/tire? Or are you talking about tightening the adjuster "wheel"?

Tighten the adjuster until you can not easily turn the wheel...with your hands on the tire @ 9 & 3 o'clock.

 

[Bob the Welder]

Tighten the adjuster until you can not easily turn the wheel...with your hands on the tire @ 9 & 3 o'clock.

Thanks, I'll try that... fingers crossed.... burping the wheel cylinders sounds like quite a pain in the......rear axle

 

[jembourbe]

Tighten one cylinder's adjuster until you can't rotate the wheel easily with your hands, then back it off a little. Then do the same with the other cylinder on the same wheel. Then do this with the other wheels in turn.

Right now, to expand all the cylinders takes more fluid than the MC can put out in one push of the brake pedal because the shoes are too far away from the drums.

 

[Conrad67FJ40]

I'm in the process of replacing most of the braking components. New drums, shoes, all 4 rear wheel cylinders, all hard brake lines and new master cylinder too. I can't get anymore air out of the brake lines. I've ran 2 large bottles of dot 3 through. Pedal goes right to the floor. It stiffens up with a couple pumps but I can still spin the rear wheels by hand while Wifey is standing on the brakes. I'm really frustrated... any idea what to check?

Bob, I am about to do a cylinder and shoe replacement and see the beck Arnley calipers, but they only show two models and many places say there are four different cylinders. Beck website and other places showing them say there is a rear left and rear right, but SOR, CCOT etc say there are four cylinder models,. What gives?
Thanks for the help!
Car Part Results | Beck/Arnley Auto Parts

 

[SteveH]

Rock Auto lists only 2 diff rear wheel cylinders for a 1969, but lists all 4 separately for my 1978. Not sure what the real differences are.

 

[thebigredrocker]

Another option is Cruiser Outfitters.
They have operators standing by and ship stuff out quick.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Another option is Cruiser Outfitters.
They have operators standing by and ship stuff out quick.

We would love to help! We stock Japanese wheel cylinders and rebuild kits!

New cylinders here: Cruiser Outfitters

 

[73FJ40]

Bob, I am about to do a cylinder and shoe replacement and see the beck Arnley calipers, but they only show two models and many places say there are four different cylinders. Beck website and other places showing them say there is a rear left and rear right, but SOR, CCOT etc say there are four cylinder models,. What gives?
Thanks for the help!
Car Part Results | Beck/Arnley Auto Parts

The following provides an explanation of the differences in the wheel cylinders for certain years of FJ40's.

Previously posted:

I replaced all the wheel cylinders on my '73 FJ40, so I've become quite familiar with the wheel cylinder differences.

First, this applies to front cylinders for FJ40 models 9/71 - 9/75 and rear cylinders for FJ40 models 9/71 - 7/80, stock configurations. I don't know about FJ45's or FJ55's.

REAR
Rear wheel cylinders do indeed consist of four different items, all four with 7/8" bore diameters. The driver's side (Left) front and rear wheel cylinders both have right hand thread adjusters. The passenger's side (Right) both have left hand thread adjusters. Both left and right FRONT wheel cylinders have two ports, one port for the bleeder screw, the second port for the brake tube jumper supply line from the REAR cylinder in the same location. Both left and right REAR wheel cylinders have two ports, one for the jumper tube to the FRONT cylinder, the second for the brake tube supply line coming off of the rear axle housing.

Summary:
Rear Left Front (RLF): Right Hand Thread, bleeder, tube
Rear Left Rear (RLR): Right Hand Thread, tube, tube
Rear Right Front (RRF): Left Hand Thread, bleeder, tube
Rear Right Rear (RRR): Left Hand Thread, tube, tube

Special note: the jumper brake tube between the front and rear wheel cylinders is still available from Toyota for about $8 - 9 each. With the tight radius near the ends, this is a bargain. Beno was able to get them for me.

FRONT
Front wheel cylinders are easier. There are two different styles of front wheel cylinders, one style for the Driver's side, the other style for the passenger's side. All four have 1 1/4" bore diameters. Once again, Driver's side cylinder adjusters are RH thread, Passenger's side are LH thread. As noted above, wheel cylinders for the same wheel are identical.

Summary:
Front Left Front (FLF): Right Hand Thread, bleeder, tube; same as FLR
Front Left Rear (FLR): Right Hand Thread, bleeder, tube; same as FLF
Front Right Front (FRF): Left Hand Thread, bleeder, tube; same as FRR
Front Right Rear (FRR): Left Hand Thread, bleeder, tube; same as FRF

Other issues:

The 'slots' on the OEM wheel cylinders that the brake shoes fit into are 'indexed' so the brake shoes may only be mounted in one direction. The adjuster-end slot is wider to accommodate the 'wide' footed end of the brake shoe, while the opposite end of the same wheel cylinder is narrower to only accept the 'narrow' footed end of the brake shoe. Many of the aftermarket wheel cylinders (from painful, personal experience) may not have the wide slot. The 'solution' is seek out the correct wheel cylinders with wide slots, or salvage the wide-slotted adjusters from the OEM cylinders for re-use in the new cylinders (if the threads are the same) or, to defeat Toyota's "safety interlock" and grind down the sides of the wide foot until it fits.

I hope this helps anyone in the process of rebuilding wheel cylinders.

 

[php74]

Not to be a jerk but Beck Arnley is about the cheapest parts available. I’ve used a few times when needed immediately from advance auto and in a pinch (tie rod, bushings, misc) and every time I’m sorry I did. Only have seen junk from them.

 

[Conrad67FJ40]

I ordered from Cruiser Outfitters!
An absolute pleasure to deal with!

 

[cruiseroutfit]

I ordered from Cruiser Outfitters!
An absolute pleasure to deal with!

Thanks

 

[Conrad67FJ40]

For everybody's information, on my 1967 fj40, my brake bleeders are 10 mm x 1.25 not 10 mm x 1