Bearing, Race and Seal Driver Diameter?

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jaymar

jaymar

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'95 FZJ80 WHEEL BEARINGS / RACES / SEALS -- Wondering if anyone knows the proper driver diameters for these jobs? Don't yet have the parts in hand, but master driver kit I'm looking at tops out at 3.18" -- too small. Thanks for any help!
 
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Well then I guess that's settled. Thanks for the info!
 
Yep, the HF kit works well and is pretty cheap. And a google image search should be able to get you a 20-25% coupon with little effort.
 
Odd thing is, though, Timken's amazon pages give the bearing sizes as 3.3 and 3.4 inches--and that's presumably for the bearings and not the races...
 
jaymar said:
Odd thing is, though, Timken's amazon pages give the bearing sizes as 3.3 and 3.4 inches--and that's presumably for the bearings and not the races...
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Not sure of any measurements/sizing but I can attest that the harbor freight race/seal driver kit mentioned earlier is the same one I bought and used...it works perfectly. I used a front axle rebuild kit from cruiser outfitters with koyo parts but the timkins should be the same size.
 
Thanks for the confirmation. Experience trumps the spec sheet. For all I know they're giving the box measurements. Interesting thing is, Timken bearings (at least THESE Timken bearings) are also Koyo bearings. When you ask Koyo for the P/Ns, you get Timken #s. My understanding is, they now own parts of Timken.

Btw, I've seen several different P/Ns listed on Mud for these bearings, but as of this week, the correct numbers for a '95 80 (and presumably for all full-floater '93-'97 80s including LX450s) are...

TOYOTA (confirmed with three different dealers)

Inner (front and rear axles) 903684908477
Outer (front and rear axles) 9008036067

It's not clear to me that the above #s include races.

KOYO/TIMKEN (twice confirmed with Koyo)

Inner (front and rear axles) JLM104948
Outer (front and rear axles) LM102949 (aka "Set 47")

Add "/10" to the above Timken #s to include races; Set 47 seems to include them already.

As of yesterday, Timken's own amazon pages will tell you the JLMs fit and the LMs do not. This is incorrect. If you look up Timken's "Set 47" on amazon--and zoom in on the P/N stamped into the bearing--you'll see (drum roll please) LM102949.
 
Jaymar, if the HF kit doesn't work, then PM me, i just machined a set of race drivers to do my friends front axle rebuild with, so i can send you a complete blue print of what you need to make.
 
Kernal said:
Harbor Freight has a nice kit that has all the sizes needed for the front axle service, max size is also 3.189" (81mm):

10 Piece Bearing Race and Seal Driver Set
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Any other buying options for this kit or anyone use any other kit that works. The HF one says only available for in store purchase, and no HF here in Hawaii. Thanks!
 
Aloha Jen said:
Any other buying options for this kit or anyone use any other kit that works. The HF one says only available for in store purchase, and no HF here in Hawaii. Thanks!
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Do like @ajax1 said above. Use the old race to.pund in the new. Use a BRASS hammer to get it started and a BRASS punch, then set the old race on top of the new race (cups facing the SAME direction....fat side to skinny side)

Then once it's in, you drive the old race back out the same way as the first time.

Can you order HF online and have it shipped directly to you? How about Amazon or Northern Tool?

If you still can't get one, use a brass pin punch. If no brass one available, use a steel pin punch that is about 8" long and has about a 1/8" or 3/16" diameter tip.

WEAR SAFETY GLASSES AND GLOVES!!!!

Gloves because I had a chunk of a chisel pop off and enter my knuckle that went in so fast and clean, I barely noticed it. Had three stitches to open it up, pry it out from under the tendon and close it up. Glasses for the same reason, but more obvious.
 
BILT4ME said:
Do like @ajax1 said above. Use the old race to.pund in the new. Use a BRASS hammer to get it started and a BRASS punch, then set the old race on top of the new race (cups facing the SAME direction....fat side to skinny side)

Then once it's in, you drive the old race back out the same way as the first time.

Can you order HF online and have it shipped directly to you? How about Amazon or Northern Tool?

If you still can't get one, use a brass pin punch. If no brass one available, use a steel pin punch that is about 8" long and has about a 1/8" or 3/16" diameter tip.

WEAR SAFETY GLASSES AND GLOVES!!!!

Gloves because I had a chunk of a chisel pop off and enter my knuckle that went in so fast and clean, I barely noticed it. Had three stitches to open it up, pry it out from under the tendon and close it up. Glasses for the same reason, but more obvious.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice.
 
Aloha Jen make sure the race fully seats you will hear a different sound from the metal when it fully seats, if ya need any more help pm me, no need for race kit I think it's easy using old races and I've prob done 20 to 30 front axles
Also make sure there is no dirt sand or grime where the race is going to seat or on either race or race will not seat correctly
 
ajax1 said:
Aloha Jen make sure the race fully seats you will hear a different sound from the metal when it fully seats, if ya need any more help pm me, no need for race kit I think it's easy using old races and I've prob done 20 to 30 front axles
Also make sure there is no dirt sand or grime where the race is going to seat or on either race or race will not seat correctly
Click to expand...
Thanks, I am planning for a full front axel rebuild in the near future, so I may just PM you for some help/advice when the time comes.
 
Aloha Jen Sounds good hit me up when your ready, you can get good kit from cruiser outfitters with all bearings good price
 
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