Battery terminal extenders (1 Viewer)

[Max.Powerzz]

Anyone know what these extended battery cable terminals are called and where to order them? Just got my cruiser back after 6 months of who knows what to get it to pass CO emissions (I have a 5.3 swap, HUGE headache over UT emissions. I think CO rivals Kalifornia). Once I save up more pennies I need to clean up my wiring, but in the meantime I have a bunch of accessory wires going directly to the battery on these battery terminal ends with extenders on each side for accessory wires. Found a pic but haven't been able to find where to order them, mine are getting worn out. They're sort of like the accessory extensions on marine batteries:

 

[woytovich]

Mil Spec style

https://www.amazon.com/Military-Spec-Battery-Terminal-Post/dp/B00X36RILW

 

[woytovich]

 

[gregnash]

I would like to see some extenders that can come off the terminals to add a few extra items. Knew that I should have opt'd for the Diehard Plat. with the dual connections (one set on top and another screw in style on the side).

 

[woytovich]

Google is your friend.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

This is terrible practice. Everything he does is the wrong way to do it. Do not believe or use this video to make your cables.

Here is the right way:

Making Your Own Battery Cables by Compass Marine How To

 

[cruiserpilot]

^^Much better!

 

[woytovich]

Agree that the real crimper is better but what is the real world difference in the 2 methods? Just trying to learn....

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Agree that the real crimper is better but what is the real world difference in the 2 methods? Just trying to learn....

The video dude cuts the insulation too short, crimps without any real force and then melts in an unknown amount of solder. A real crimper eliminates all the voids and makes a better and longer lasting connection. A hammer crimper for $20 does a decent job too when done carefully, as does a properly soldered lug where you start with the pellet of solder in the lug.

@Output Shaft makes a valid point about an expensive crimper being possibly wasteful, however, once you have one, you tend to use it more than you would think, and my local friends have used it too. It's always nice having the right tool for the job. How often do you use your $50 TRE puller, or $400 knuckle tool? It's kind of the same thing.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

My hammer crimper has put countless welding leads and battery cables together. Never had an issue.

J

 

[jcj_78FJ40]

Using a bench vise to compress a hammer crimper also works well...

 

[doug720]

I have good crimpers...now, but in the 'old days, I used a hammer crimper.

I found a hydraulic press works really well to crimp with the hammer crimper. An arbor press would likely be good also,

 

[hoser]

Slee sells some extensions for mil-spec terminals... if that is what you really need...

"The Big Three" Electrical Upgrade

 

[Max.Powerzz]

Slee sells some extensions for mil-spec terminals... if that is what you really need...

"The Big Three" Electrical Upgrade

Thanks Hoser, that's exactly what I'm looking for!

 

[hoser]

Great, just to be clear... the actual terminals are sold at many places such as here....

Military Battery Terminals

Slee only sells the extension part. It is not advertised as it is usually sold as part of a 100 series battery kit. You'd need to call.

 

[gregnash]

Slee sells some extensions for mil-spec terminals... if that is what you really need...

"The Big Three" Electrical Upgrade

Sweet... that was what I was thinking of as well!

 

[Willard]

I make and have always made my cables using Welding cable. I never crimp my cables.
Instead cut the cable using a cable cutter, (Klein tools makes a nice one) so they are flush, then remove the rubber/ plastic sheathing enough that it will fit in nice and clean to the fitting. I then fill the end of the fitting with solder until it almost over flows and push the cable into it. Hold it until it is solid and will not move, clean up and over slipped solder and then use heat shrink to make it look pretty.
Have done that for years and have never had a problem with cables, corrosion or bad connections. This is how i do all my dual battery setups. and using this method and the right setup, I can Jump start battery to battery

The Video above is a complete joke.

 

[kowalski]

You probably shouldn't have that many wires going straight off your battery in the first place...

There should be a fuse between all your new wires and the battery, or between the new fuse panel and the battery. All your wires should be on the fuse panel...

You would then require just 1 new wire off the battery to something like an ANL fuse, and you can tap that for all your aux power.

 

[woytovich]

To further complicate this thread with tangential info...

Underhood electrical enclosure

 

[Willard]

You probably shouldn't have that many wires going straight off your battery in the first place...

There should be a fuse between all your new wires and the battery, or between the new fuse panel and the battery. All your wires should be on the fuse panel...

You would then require just 1 new wire off the battery to something like an ANL fuse, and you can tap that for all your aux power

Correct. I have added 2nd fuse blocks for Fridges, lights, accessories inside (CB, Ham, whatever) in the past. 1 wire the to battery, or in my case the 2nd battery and away you go. only other wires should be for the Winch.

Nothing I hate more than poor wiring on a rig. It can look nice, but make sure it is stable, done right and clean. adding a second fuse block for accessories is easier than you might think.