Battery posts wrong side solution (1 Viewer)

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You could always just make a short bus bar out of copper to extend to where the factory locations would be. That's what I'm doing. 3/4" copper pipe, pressed flat in a 12-ton shop press. Cut to size, holes drilled to mount it on the battery post and another to provide the "remote post", cheap and easy.
 
I was able to pull the positive enough to reach the post and I used LandCruiserPhil’s kit for the relocation of the fusible link and battery hood down bracket. A problem I ran into was that the negative post was hitting the under side of my hood when I’d close it so I had to give the underside of the hood a little tappy tap to clear the post (it only needed 1/8” or so). Ideally, I would’ve gotten the correct battery but nobody local had what I was looking for and we were going to Baja that weekend so we didn’t have time to order a battery.
 
I was able to pull the positive enough to reach the post and I used LandCruiserPhil’s kit for the relocation of the fusible link and battery hood down bracket. A problem I ran into was that the negative post was hitting the under side of my hood when I’d close it so I had to give the underside of the hood a little tappy tap to clear the post (it only needed 1/8” or so). Ideally, I would’ve gotten the correct battery but nobody local had what I was looking for and we were going to Baja that weekend so we didn’t have time to order a battery.
Forgot to attach photo

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You could always just make a short bus bar out of copper to extend to where the factory locations would be. That's what I'm doing. 3/4" copper pipe, pressed flat in a 12-ton shop press. Cut to size, holes drilled to mount it on the battery post and another to provide the "remote post", cheap and easy.

I've done similar in the past, but used a heavy brass terminal bar out of an old electrical switchboard.
Advantage was its drilled and tapped for terminations approximately every ⅜", and heavy enough to deal with a high current load
 
Made mine last night. Nothing high current comes off of this battery, the starter is linked to the aux / starting battery.
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I wanted this specific dedicated deep cycle (which doesn't come in the F configuration) because it has 95AH of capacity and was $115. With how my electrical system is set up, this battery's primary use is the OEM vehicle accessories and stereo. This battery has nothing to do with the starter, ignition circuit, and ECU, I have a dedicated and isolated battery solely to handle those items. I often use the stereo at camp with the engine off, which drove the decision to use a dedicated deep cycle.

So to answer your questions:
Mistake?
  • No
In a hurry?
  • A bit, my x2power battery that was in this slot tanked this week, right when I'm dealing with a blown up engine in my Audi A7, T-case rebuild, Front Diff reseal, rear shock replacement.
Don't care?
  • I get the OCDness of Mudders, but no, I really don't care that I have bus bars on my battery. The rig is built for functionality 1st, looks 2nd.
Super-cheap so I did it this way?
  • It was cheap, that was a plus when I'm having an $8,000 car repair month.
 
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I wanted this specific dedicated deep cycle (which doesn't come in the F configuration) because it has 95AH of capacity and was $115. With how my electrical system is set up, this battery's primary use is the OEM vehicle accessories and stereo. This battery has nothing to do with the starter, ignition circuit, and ECU, I have a dedicated and isolated battery solely to handle those items. I often use the stereo at camp with the engine off, which drove the decision to use a dedicated deep cycle.

So to answer your questions:
Mistake?
  • No
In a hurry?
  • A bit, my x2power battery that was in this slot tanked this week, right when I'm dealing with a blown up engine in my Audi A7, T-case rebuild, Front Diff reseal, rear shock replacement.
Don't care?
  • I get the OCDness of Mudders, but no, I really don't care that I have bus bars on my battery. The rig is built for functionality 1st, looks 2nd.
Super-cheap so I did it this way?
  • It was cheap, that was a plus when I'm having an $8,000 car repair month.
Those are legitimate answers. That's why I asked.
I see some of these and wonder why, after someone arcs a hole in their hood from it being the wrong one.

I also look at it from a safety standpoint, as I want as little of an exposed "hot" connection as possible, so when I drop a wrench, or lay down my cheater pipe, I don't inadvertently arc it across my battery terminals or whatever.

A close friend of mine had a battery explode in his hands while he was installing it into an old tractor, so I've seen the aftermath of a lead acid battery exploding and what it can do to a person, as well as everything it touches.


Your "secondary" battery is on the left side of your truck? It's a 93, right? Or did you do other shenanigans to make that happen?
 
yup secondary battery (starting battery) is on the passenger side. Here's how my system works.
Battery Layout - Current.jpg
 
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yup secondary battery (starting battery) is on the passenger side. Here's how my system works, except it doesn't represent how I've modified the factory harness so that the ECU and ignition circuit comes off the starting battery, I've also wired the stereo, amp, and sub in such a way that I can turn them on without the ignition needing to be on.

View attachment 2793088
Wow!

OK, you're beyond me in most of that.

I knew from your history that you don't make rash decisions, but I couldn't understand (without seeing all this) why you would do what you did. Now I get it.
 
OP- I have been using this one since 2017, and it’s been great with fairly impressive stats, and a low cost. This thread shows how I overcame the hookups in the wrong place. I’ve used this same battery in multiple vehicles and it’s great. Just another option for the quiver.

 
You could always just make a short bus bar out of copper to extend to where the factory locations would be. That's what I'm doing. 3/4" copper pipe, pressed flat in a 12-ton shop press. Cut to size, holes drilled to mount it on the battery post and another to provide the "remote post", cheap and easy.
I'm sorry, I just couldn't help myself...

Short Bus Bar.jpg
 

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