Crank but No Start (Solved) (2 Viewers)

[burgeman86]

Edit (07-10-2022): My infamous “Crank, No Start” issue has been solved. The wiring harness that led from the Crankshaft Position Sensor and the Oil Pressure Sending Unit were damaged and the PO attempted to repair it, which I was not made aware of when I purchased Gracie. After removing the damaged wiring and replaced the plugs, the issue was remedied.

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Hi Mudders,



(You can skip the intro and head straight to issue in the last 2-3 paragraphs)



Hi Mudders,

I’d like to start off and say this forum was a big help when I decided to purchase my Land Cruiser earlier this year and I thank you.

(Kind of an intro) In early January, a started looking for a new car since my truck lease was coming to an end. A buddy of mine, who has a knack for finding things, found a 2000 Land Cruiser for sale from a private seller. I really knew nothing about LC/LX470s but once I started digging and researching, I came across a few resources, including this site. I can honestly say, I fell in love with them. The fact that these vehicles were made w the purpose of lasting for 25 years in a 3rd world country had me hooked.

So I went on the prowl and eventually came across a 2006 Land Cruiser with 227k miles from a local dealership in Wisconsin. I made a few “mistakes” when I test drove it. For instances, I didn’t turn the stereo on because I wanted to listen for any odd ball mechanical noises. Later I found out all the speakers were blown. An easy fix but nonetheless, it could have had the dealership fix it.

Moving on, Part of the purchase agreement was to have the timing belt replaced, which they did. The night I went to pick it up, it was freezing outside. My wife and I took it for a spin around the block and I found that the heat wasn’t working. It was as if the AC was stuck in the “on” position. I took it right back to the dealership and the sales folks tried to get the heat to work to no avail. Unfortunately it was late so I had to leave the LC overnight since the place was closing and no mechanics were working.

The following day, I contacted the dealership and they advised the heat worked and they couldn’t simulate last night’s issue. I chalked it up to a “one-time-it’ll-never-happen-again” issue. Btw, that’s not the case, about a month or two ago, the heat stopped working again.

The day I picked it up, I drove it straight to Florida for a family trip, which was about a 15-16 hour drive. A few hours into the drive, my wife noticed water was dripping on her feet around the front passenger floorboards. I found that condensation was building up just underneath the glove box. At this point, you can only imagine how frustrated my wife and I were at this point. But I searched this site and they seemed like easy fixes. We trucked on to Florida and it was a smooth ride. I fell in love w the LC.

Once we arrived in Florida, I immediately went to closest Best Buy and bought two speakers for the front doors followed by a kit to get rid of the hazing and Yellowing of the headlights. Once everything was replaced and fixed, the needle sunk a little deeper and I was hooked on the LC.

To the problem at hand. About month ago, I was going to head to work when I tried starting the LC and it wouldn’t start. The starter sounded normal but the engine wouldn’t turnover. I found that the battery was low. I trickle charged the battery to a full charge for a day. About 5 to 7 days later, same problem. I recharged the battery and again same problem.



Without testing anything, I assumed the battery was going bad so I replaced it roughly two weeks ago. Yesterday, I ran into the same problem. So last night, I recharged the battery and this morning tested the battery w a multimeter. (Video link attached)

• LC off 12.67
• LC running idle 14.17 but there was a moment it dropped down to 12.96 for a split second and came back up to 14.17
• LC running around 2000 rpm 14.19-14.20

iCloud

Could the issue be a faulty alternator? Not sure if this helps but mu driving habits are pretty simple; 10 mile drive to and from work, mostly freeway.



Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Mudders

Hi I just picked up a 2001 LC with 307k miles on it for a good price. It has been well maintained by the previous owner and is in generally good shape. The timing belt and water pump had not been serviced in the last 90k. Up until this point the vehicle had been starting up and running without any problems. Right before I drop it off at the mechanics the CEL pops on and the vsc lights came on and stayed on. My mechanic changed out the belt and the various pieces that go along with three service. I also have him run the diagnostic on the CEL light.
This is what he said he checked:

You do have a current and history code of p 0340, which is a camshaft position sensor circuit code, i back probed the wires for that sensor all the way back to the ecm,and couldn't find a short, and i ohm checked both poles on the sensor itself, and on live data on the scanner it shows its reading, and correlated to the crankshaft position sensor. So it may take a drive cycle, 50-100 miles before it clears out. Because every time I cleared it, it came right back as a current and history code.

I am now having issues with the crank but no start. My anti theft lights go off when I insert the master key, but the key is in pretty rough shape, so maybe that could be an issue too. Should I go ahead and change out the camshaft sensor and harness? Would that have any effect on my starting? Just looking where to start from.