Battery keeps going dead (1 Viewer)

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Is it electric? Probably.
 
Will leaving the center diff lock, locked run down the batter?
1993 land cruiser battery replaced two years ago.

Leaving the diff locked is not related to battery drain. Once its locked its no longer creating an electrical draw. Same idea of when you roll down the window, it only draws electricity when its moving.

I'd recommend checking the voltage while the engine is running and go from there.
 
It should stop when the key is off.
 
How fast does the battery drain? I know on my 94, if I leave the headlight switch in the automatic position it will drain the battery in 3-4 weeks or so. if headlight switch is in off position it can sit for weeks on end no issue.
 
With extended periods of sitting, we should also discuss a battery tender and other things to keep your cruiser running tip top. Sitting can be as bad, or, really, worse than driving it.
 
Go to local auto parts store and check for bad battery.

If not that, check the other suspects.! Could be a bad alternator depending on how long you’re driving it each day.

Alternatively, you have a parasitic draw that’s causing it to die. YouTube has a couple of great videos to help diagnose. Best of luck.
 
Don’t work harder than you have to on this. Hence why you should start with the battery.
Auto parts stores can also test for an alternator as well.
 
AC Delco about 2 years old. jump it let it run for a hour or so. Gauge in the dash shows that it is charging, half way between center and the top. next day nothing.

Once a regular lead acid battery has been discharged as you've described it's life span is going to be extremely short. Plan on replacing it soon.
 
AC Delco about 2 years old. jump it let it run for a hour or so. Gauge in the dash shows that it is charging, half way between center and the top. next day nothing.


I had a similar situation occurring.

New battery, kept going dead by the next day.
Had the battery checked out, checked out OK.
Checked alternator - OK
Would have intermittent days it would only click before it would start.

I had the battery swapped to a NEW battery. Same problem again.
Had the alternator checked again....Checked OK Decided to change it as PM with a Reman from O'Reilly
Still had the problem.
Didn't start again. Changed the starter with reman unit from O'Reilly.
Had the problem again.
Ripped out the alarm system due to alarm freaking out and locking me out of truck.
Have not had the problem since.

I normally don't change more than one thing at a time, but in this case I was watching my OBD2 reader and I could p-ull up to a stop light and watch my voltage go from 14.3 V and steadily drop to 11.6V during the course of 3 minutes at a light at idle. As soon as the RPM came up, it was back to 13.8V up to 14.3V, so the problem resolved.

I think in this case it was a multi-fold problem with the starter and the alarm system being the root causes.

I have since installed my "bad" alternator on a friend's truck and it is still operational a month later, so that tells me it was NOT bad.

Do you have an RS3000 alarm? If so, ti COULD be the root of the problem.

With the battery fully charged, pull the positive cable and touch the multimeter between each of the three fusible links to determine any parasitic losses. That will isolate WHICH circuit is draining the battery. If none and it is the main cable, then it may point to starter contacts.

Good Luck!
 
I'll report I also had an issue where the alarm would kill it completely in about 2-3 days, I believe it had an internal fault or short in the 20+ year old electronics.
Unplugged it and problem gone.
 
An 80 Series at rest should draw between 20-30mA and, depending on what other electronics you may have installed, may be slightly higher, but certainly not much more than that.
Put an ammeter in series with the battery and see what yours is drawing. Maybe you have a parasitic load somewhere, or maybe your battery is just crap.
 

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