Battery Drain (1 Viewer)

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workingdog

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This is happening in a 67 FJ40 with a 2001ish 6.0 liter with appropriate computer.

In the last couple of weeks, my battery won't hold a charge. I drive it, my alternator is putting out 13.4 to 14 volts. I get back. The battery is at 12.6 volts, the next day it's at 11.8 and will barely start the rig. I pulled the battery cable and tested the current flowing. Only 116 milliamps. It reads 0 on the 10 amp scale. So, I was expecting more. My understanding that the computer should draw about 50 milliamps anyway, 116 hardly seems enough to cause what I'm seeing.

What else can I look at?
 
Newer battery, but that's a good thought. When it went dead a couple of months ago when lights got left on, the shop said it was fine. But maybe it's not.
 
Lots of jun batteries these days, on number two in last three months. Just replaced VR though and hopefully that does the trick. Parasitic drain somewhere???
 
116 milliamps is actually high. 35 milliamps is normal and you are 4 times that. Now, if there are ad-ons like alarm etc. , then maybe 116 will become normal on your vehicle. Look at the youtube attachment as this guy says 50 milliamp draw , a good battery can handle a month of non use.

 
Thanks. There's a GPS speedo - I need to see if it's contributing to the load. There is no alarm, no radio - nothing fancy, except for the GPS speedo.
 
It occurs to me that I need to let the drain test run for a while, to give the ECM a chance to shut down. 116 was on power on, which I don't think is fair. GPS speedo is connected to keyed power.
 
Correct, hook up the meter , (current as you know) , and wait for a while and look at the draw. I have done a few vehicles with issues and 30 to 50 milliamp was the draw. (stock vehicles).
 
I tried, it got as low as 90. I'm going to have to start pulling fuses to see if it's the computer or something else.
 
Is 90 the final , all night number ? Maybe 90 is correct draw for what you are running. Pulling fuses will certainly tell the story . Good troubleshooting, something is drawing current.
 
I was having problems with my battery dying overnight - took forever to figure it out and I'm not sure what the actual cause was. But I cleaned up every stinking ground so they were good and I no longer have that problem. Also, if I end up not driving my car for awhile I plug in one of these:

DieHard Smart Charger and Maintainer
 
What does disconnecting overnight do for a bad cell?
 
Check your alternator for a bad diode. Look online for how to test, replacement is easy.

Jerry D.
 
I'm seeing 13.7 to 14.4 volts in the cab with the engine running - so I assume that the alternator is doing its job. Is it's possible it's not.
 
Been there, done this. Alternator charged fine, battery would deplete in about two days.


"3. Checking for a Bad Diode

Usually, a bad alternator diode will cause your headlights or instrument panel lights to flicker or dim and, sometimes, drain battery power overnight, or in minutes.

* To check for a possible bad alternator diode, switch your voltmeter to a low setting on the AC (alternating current) voltage scale.
* With the engine running, touch the meter probes to the battery terminals.
* Your voltmeter should read 0 AC volts.

Any amount of AC voltage would indicate a bad diode, so you'll need to replace the alternator."



Also...in another post...

"Just an fyi, a bad diode in the alternator can drain the battery even when the engine is not running. You can check the amount of A/C voltage leaving the alternator by putting your multimeter leads on the battery (Positive lead on +, and Negative lead on -), with you multimeter set on A/C voltage you should read no greater than .5VAC, if you get more, your rectifier bridge on your alternator is bad and needs to be replaced."


Another test, I haven't tried this one, is to remove the belt that drives your alternator and IF the alternator starts to rotate on its own, you have a bad/leaky diode.


My diode/rectifier board was about $18 as I recal, plus my 2 cents...

Good luck

Jerry D.
 
Awesome.
 
Disconnecting the battery will give an indication if the battery is losing charge because of a faulty battery/bad cell.

ie if it cranks fine when reconnected the next day it indicates a parasitic drain. If its half flat like you are experiencing it means the battery is draining from a fault internally.
 
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