+ batt switch for winch

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I am using an isolator switch for my front and rear winches. Just ensure that the AMP load of the switch will
hold up to the 500 Amps that your winch produces under full load. You do not want this switch to melt under load.
 
rc51kid said:
Can i use a switch like this for a winch? I was thinking of wiring it right off of the + lead coming straight off of the + batt lead. That way i could keep power cut off to the winch 90% of the time and only turn it on when off road. Any problems with a setup like this?

http://www.jmsonline.net/sierra-battery-switch-sie-un77310.htm
Click to expand...

Given the link provides ZERO specs (max current, current X for Y seconds etc etc) your guess is as good as the next person... You also haven't mentioned which winch you are planning to use it with...

I personally use marine switches rated at 500A or more in my 2 4wds, but then I also use it to select which battery will provide winch power and also to self jump start.

cheers,
george.
 
Here's how I wired mine....
WP_20140331_001.webp
 
It looks like that Warn winch will pull 440 amps for a full strength pull. I know that wouldn't be very long, but I'd be nervous of using that switch as it isn't rated for that sort of power.

http://www.bluesea.com/products/category/Manual_Battery_Switches

Here's the heavy duty series which is rated for 600amps. Pretty spendy for a switch though! http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MMDLB6/?tag=ihco-20

I like the idea of leaving the cables hanging them hooking them to the binding posts via wingnuts whenever needed.
 
Fireball: which switch are you talking about? The OP or ?

Note, marine switches generally have several ratings. The continuous current rating, 5 minute rating, cranking rating. Even the 'smallish' 9001e has quite impressive specs that would easily deal with winch load currents of an m12000:

Continuous Rating 350A
Intermittent Rating 600A (5 min)
Cranking Rating 10 sec 2000A
Cranking Rating 1 min 1000A

5 minutes at 600A and I think you would have filled the spool up...

cheers,
george.
 
George thanks for the info on intermittent rating. I didn't understand what that meant. So yes it does look like you could use one of the cheaper bluesea switches.

One question why are you using the multi pole switch? Wouldn't a simple on off suffice? The 9003e is $36 which is a bit more reasonable.
 
Dual batteries...

cheers,
george.
 
Ok, gotcha. I thought you were showing that switch as being used for your winch which is why I was confused.

I was planning on tucking the leads near the battery, but I think I'll order the 9003e switch from amazon for a bit more elegant solution.
 
fireball said:
Ok, gotcha. I thought you were showing that switch as being used for your winch which is why I was confused.

I was planning on tucking the leads near the battery, but I think I'll order the 9003e switch from amazon for a bit more elegant solution.
Click to expand...

I am using it for my winch AND my dual battery system. If you click on my URL in my sig you can read up on the installation. It was done some 14 years ago and still going strong (on an 80 series). I have a similar setup in my Patrol back in oz.

The 4 way switch (off/bat1/bat2/both) allows selection of which battery to use for winching and also in both position gives you a self jump start. A lot of folk have used the same or similar scheme.

cheers,
george.
 
rc51kid said:
Can i use a switch like this for a winch? I was thinking of wiring it right off of the + lead coming straight off of the + batt lead. That way i could keep power cut off to the winch 90% of the time and only turn it on when off road. Any problems with a setup like this?

http://www.jmsonline.net/sierra-battery-switch-sie-un77310.htm
Click to expand...

That switch won't hold up any winch, let alone an M12k lol

You're better off getting a REAL switch like what george posted or a heavy duty solenoid, which is what I use for both my winches :)

pac500noid.JPG

pac500noid2.JPG


I prefer the solenoid because I can activate it from inside my rig and shut it down quickly in the case of an emergency :cool:
 
What is the risk involved if the winch is wired directly to the battery without a cut-off switch in the circuit?
 
BulletHead said:
What is the risk involved if the winch is wired directly to the battery without a cut-off switch in the circuit?
Click to expand...


If you wire your winch directly without a main cut-off, it will have constant power at all times.

In the event of a collision, the power cable may be shorted to your chassis and cause a fire.

Or some punk kid with a paper clip could trigger your winch from the remote plug and cause serious damage.

Also, in the event of a runaway winch due to a frozen or sticky solenoid, you'll have no way to quickly disconnect power.

A heavy duty marine switch will be fine as long as it has the proper rating.

I prefer a large solenoid because I don't need to lift the hood in order to switch it, but even a simple Anderson connector will do the trick.
 
Didn't think about those possibilities, thx.

Is there a switch/controller that could be used for both a winch cut-off switch and also a dual-battery switch, in order to eliminate an additional component?
 
I was planning to put a switch on mine, but had a 2 day training session with Bill Burke who's run his direct wired. Lost my motivation to put a switch in. It does provide some extra level of protection, but the risk seems pretty low.
 
fireball said:
I was planning to put a switch on mine, but had a 2 day training session with Bill Burke who's run his direct wired. Lost my motivation to put a switch in. It does provide some extra level of protection, but the risk seems pretty low.
Click to expand...


The risk may seem pretty low right up until sumthin actually happens :doh:

Having seen some of these things happen first hand on numerous occasions, I'd rather not take any chances :redface:
 
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