If the back glass is original (or a replacement that was correctly installed) the glass will be glued to the weatherstrip and the weatherstrip will be glued to the tail gate. They are harder to remove than you think.
Baseline and Bodywork: Cost/Benefit? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter SaturnAscends
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
If the back glass is original (or a replacement that was correctly installed) the glass will be glued to the weatherstrip and the weatherstrip will be glued to the tail gate. They are harder to remove than you think.
I suppose that means mine was not original.
To confirm, I am referring to the tail gate glass (back glass) not the quarter glass. If your tail gate glass was not glued it has been out before.
@Ozark80 Its been sometime you've been on here, and pretty active. I think you may not have noticed it yet, but you are going to keep the 80 and you are going to fix the rust. Stop kidding yourself, you don't want to sell it. You just need to accept, like most people here, that your 80 has imperfections and will be a unique project, just like all the rest of them on here. Acceptance is the first step in healing. Now surrender your wallet and order your window seal and glue and some wire wheels for your drill.
- Thread starter
- #25
Indeed I may eventually end up in my local Cruiserholics Anonymous, but for now I’ll just go for broke and spend every dime on this handsome old brick
- Thread starter
- #26
Anybody know what these blemishes are? I didn't know the paint was single stage at the time and I thought the color was more dark blue than black, so I thought the absence of clearcoat peeling was a good sign. I thought those grayish white splotches were just birdpoo or something, but now I think it might be primer. Is it possible to do a touch up on these spots? Anyone else have these issues with black onyx?
- Thread starter
- #27
I'm also still at an impasse with this truck. Haven't had the time/space/extra funds to work on it, and I just keep getting lowballed to oblivion when I try to sell.
Would it be worth throwing another $2k in parts at it to do a top end rebuild/resealing, and overhaul the brakes and/or suspension?
I'm already 10k into this, and I'm wondering if now is the time to cut losses, or is there an ideal amount to spend on refreshing it before I reach the point of diminishing returns.
Would it be worth throwing another $2k in parts at it to do a top end rebuild/resealing, and overhaul the brakes and/or suspension?
I'm already 10k into this, and I'm wondering if now is the time to cut losses, or is there an ideal amount to spend on refreshing it before I reach the point of diminishing returns.
Any particular reason you are in a rush? If you take your time you can fix alot for cheap and enjoy it. Rebuilding your brake calipers is easy and cheap, fixing leaks for valve cover and front of engine are easy(but can take some time) and cheap. The oil pans and the seals for that lower stuff is time consuming but not expensive however the rearmain seal can take some effort that would likely include a transmission jack or attachment for one.
@Ozark80
Every situation is different but it sounds like you have time and $ constraints and that this 80 may be too much of a project and not nice enough for you to enjoy as it is. Nobody here is going to be able to answer some of your questions directly but we can share opinions and experience that may help.
In my opinion you need to focus on the bigger decision points and set specific goals and plans based on those. If you are simply too busy or don't have the $ to turn this into what you want/need it to be then focus on selling it and don't look back. If you know you'll have the time/$/desire in the near future then you could potentially focus on storing it and forgetting about it for a little while (I'd keep this short or just sell otherwise). If you are excited about the 80, want to keep it and are willing to invest time/$ then list out what it needs, organize that list in terms of priority and set reasonable goals/expectations on working through that list.
My assumption after following this thread is that you should not spend much more $ on the truck currently, as long as it runs/drives reliably as is. If, after an honest appraisal of the situation you decide to sell I'd strongly recommend a thorough wash and then compound/polish/wax. I'd spend a few hundred on this if you need to. I'd also clean the interior, under hood and undercarriage as possible. Cleaning/detailing and fixing small/cheap issues is almost always worth it in terms of resale value. I'd also personally spend a few hours hammering out the dents up front and straightening out some of the body work, which wouldn't be hard for someone that knows how to do it and if they are NOT trying to make things perfect. I think you get the approach I'm proposing which is don't dive into huge projects or big spending but do clean things up and attend to the easy issues. A dirty truck with easy to fix problems just shows that the owner(s) of the truck didn't care or take care of things and will really lower resale value.
I would only engage in a top-end rebuild or big projects if you plan to keep the truck long term or if it isn't running and you know for sure what you are getting into and what the impacts on resale are (doesn't sound like you have that knowledge though). A properly done top-end rebuild plus the while you are in there's is likely to cost more than $2500 but we'd have to get specific on what this even means in terms of tasks/parts/etc.
In terms of pricing for sale, it's worth what you can get for it regardless of what you've spent. You are likely best off minimizing or ignoring your sunk costs and just evaluating your future possible expenses and options. If you give your past spending too much weight it will likely motivate you to not sell (price too high) or spend more $ on it. I'd only spend real money on it (more than $500) if I was planning to keep it long term or if I knew the market and that I could get all of that $ plus more back out at time of sale. If you were to be realistic about future costs of ownership it may make selling it cheap much easier to live with.
Every situation is different but it sounds like you have time and $ constraints and that this 80 may be too much of a project and not nice enough for you to enjoy as it is. Nobody here is going to be able to answer some of your questions directly but we can share opinions and experience that may help.
In my opinion you need to focus on the bigger decision points and set specific goals and plans based on those. If you are simply too busy or don't have the $ to turn this into what you want/need it to be then focus on selling it and don't look back. If you know you'll have the time/$/desire in the near future then you could potentially focus on storing it and forgetting about it for a little while (I'd keep this short or just sell otherwise). If you are excited about the 80, want to keep it and are willing to invest time/$ then list out what it needs, organize that list in terms of priority and set reasonable goals/expectations on working through that list.
My assumption after following this thread is that you should not spend much more $ on the truck currently, as long as it runs/drives reliably as is. If, after an honest appraisal of the situation you decide to sell I'd strongly recommend a thorough wash and then compound/polish/wax. I'd spend a few hundred on this if you need to. I'd also clean the interior, under hood and undercarriage as possible. Cleaning/detailing and fixing small/cheap issues is almost always worth it in terms of resale value. I'd also personally spend a few hours hammering out the dents up front and straightening out some of the body work, which wouldn't be hard for someone that knows how to do it and if they are NOT trying to make things perfect. I think you get the approach I'm proposing which is don't dive into huge projects or big spending but do clean things up and attend to the easy issues. A dirty truck with easy to fix problems just shows that the owner(s) of the truck didn't care or take care of things and will really lower resale value.
I would only engage in a top-end rebuild or big projects if you plan to keep the truck long term or if it isn't running and you know for sure what you are getting into and what the impacts on resale are (doesn't sound like you have that knowledge though). A properly done top-end rebuild plus the while you are in there's is likely to cost more than $2500 but we'd have to get specific on what this even means in terms of tasks/parts/etc.
In terms of pricing for sale, it's worth what you can get for it regardless of what you've spent. You are likely best off minimizing or ignoring your sunk costs and just evaluating your future possible expenses and options. If you give your past spending too much weight it will likely motivate you to not sell (price too high) or spend more $ on it. I'd only spend real money on it (more than $500) if I was planning to keep it long term or if I knew the market and that I could get all of that $ plus more back out at time of sale. If you were to be realistic about future costs of ownership it may make selling it cheap much easier to live with.
- Thread starter
- #30
I just want to get the baseline done as I feel like driving it into the ground and fixing as it breaks is too stressful and risky. The issue is. I don't have all the tools to do the rotors and axles etc., and I don't have a garage or clean work space to take on dirty jobs like that. Sure I can do bits and pieces like changing a starter or whatever but for bigger jobs I'd realistically need to take it to a shop for, but I don't have the expendable funds right now to pay $$$ in labor.
I don't have a way to raise the engine for the pan seal either, and I'm sure the labor isn't cheap for that job. I was thinking maybe I try Rotella 15W-40 and see if that helps?
Gotcha well if you would like, I can make a list of what you need for each job and some additional ideas. But that is up to you and no pressure at all. We would all like you to enjoy what we also enjoy and have you part of the community but being an 80 owner isnt a definition of who a person is, just a good indicator of them having good taste in vehicles.
- Thread starter
- #32
Yes, you've summarized my dilemma well. I had a contact high off all the people smoking Cruiser kush over the summer and paid 8k for a neglected fixer-upper, and now I'm in the predicament of weighing whether I keep it for longer and get more use out of it while getting nickel and dimed along the way. Maybe I'd have better luck selling on the spring/summer?
It actually sounds like sewing machine and runs well as far as I can tell, apart from a slightly rough idle in Drive. It does pull to the right though, and the brakes are almost straight up dangerous at this point.
I agree the 10k or so I have in it is sunk cost at this point. I've got my eye on an 04 Tacoma, or I might just get a Camry and forget about old 4x4s until I have more stable income.
- Thread starter
- #33
Yeah thanks clx, I like the community too and I really wanted to make it work. I though I could maybe swing but reality caught up to me, I've had some unforeseen expenses, and I just can't realistically afford to keep it at this stage of my life. It's seemingly nearing the end of it "25 year service life," and I'm realizing I'm unequipped to deal with everything falling apart on a 25 year old truck.
I suppose I could just keep it as a nickel and dime DD/trailbeater, but I think a minitruck like I had before would be better suited in that regard.
I'd address these and do the detailing/bodywork I mentioned, list it at a price good for you but still reasonable, then be a patient seller. Spring can be a better time to sell in many markets but it will take a month or two to get it ready so you'll be close once you get it listed I expect.
Pulls to the right could be a number of things but I'd get the jack out and lift each wheel off the ground to check for loose bearings/etc. on each then respond accordingly. It's entirely possible that all you need to do is retorque the front wheel bearings. Loose wheel bearings can also cause the brake pads to be pushed out in the calipers and make the pedal travel much higher, etc. After you've figured out if you have loose wheel bearings or knuckles (up front only on the knuckles) you can proceed to address those (read on mud then act). I'd get the wheels tight before addressing the brake issues.
The other tests I would do is have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while you put your hand on each steering joint to feel for looseness. You can also visually see extreme play in many situations. This will give you a sense of how safe/tight the steering system is. Once you've collected that information you can read on mud and decide what to do.
You can set the toe yourself and also re-center the steering wheel with easy adjustments.
So much of what I expect is wrong with your truck would be easy to fix for someone that is familiar with one of these. That could be you if you slowed down, read up on each issue and attacked them one by one. Prioritize steering issues and brakes for safety reasons. Keep your fluids fresh and topped-up to avoid extra expenses.
And to let you know, many of us work outside or without shops. This requires waiting on good weather and ideally doing the work in smaller chunks so that parts/tools/etc. are never left outside or scattered around. It doesn't really add that much operational overhead once you get used to the planning and organization required and it helps avoid getting too much taken apart at once which can help you avoid creating an abandoned/inoperable vehicle. Always keeping it operational is a good goal in my opinion.
I second everything @jpoole Has said.
If your heart's not in it, off load it ASAP.
if your on the fence, but leaning toward keeping it, fixing some of the safety and drivability issues ASAP could make a big change to the way you feel about it and your enjoyment in driving it.
I've lost a couple of cruisers over the years for different reasons. And I miss them both for different reasons too.
They do take time and effort and dollars to look after. But if you enjoy driving it, it's worth while
If your heart's not in it, off load it ASAP.
if your on the fence, but leaning toward keeping it, fixing some of the safety and drivability issues ASAP could make a big change to the way you feel about it and your enjoyment in driving it.
I've lost a couple of cruisers over the years for different reasons. And I miss them both for different reasons too.
They do take time and effort and dollars to look after. But if you enjoy driving it, it's worth while
To add to above, my current cruiser was a little rough when I bought it. Honestly still is. It had dents and scratches from PO, clear coat was starting to go on the paint, interior was average, mostly just grimy, it had a bunch of outstanding PM To be done.
I paid AUD$5K, in the nearly 4 years I've owned it, I've put between 5&10k into it, and the PM is mostly all done.
I pushed out some dents wish made me feel better about it. I fitted comfortable front seats which helped me enjoy driving it more. As I did PM, it drove nicer. I did a few little mods to suit my needs better. I fitted a modern stereo and new speakers . . .
Lots of little tweaks that made it more mine, and improved my enjoyment of it.
It's currently been off the road for several months. I've spent a couple of grand in parts, and hours, days, weekends rebuilding an engine with a broken crankshaft, only months after doing a head gasket.
I have it running, but it has issues, and I'll likely be pulling it apart again.
I miss driving it, and I sometimes struggle to justify the cost of repairing something that is old, and I won't ever get all my money back if I sold.
There a lot of things I'd like to upgrade, but so far PM has kind of kept a lot of that at bay.
I'm determined to keep this one. I miss my other cruisers. There's no other car I want to drive. I don't look at other cars and think, dang I'd really like one of them.
I paid AUD$5K, in the nearly 4 years I've owned it, I've put between 5&10k into it, and the PM is mostly all done.
I pushed out some dents wish made me feel better about it. I fitted comfortable front seats which helped me enjoy driving it more. As I did PM, it drove nicer. I did a few little mods to suit my needs better. I fitted a modern stereo and new speakers . . .
Lots of little tweaks that made it more mine, and improved my enjoyment of it.
It's currently been off the road for several months. I've spent a couple of grand in parts, and hours, days, weekends rebuilding an engine with a broken crankshaft, only months after doing a head gasket.
I have it running, but it has issues, and I'll likely be pulling it apart again.
I miss driving it, and I sometimes struggle to justify the cost of repairing something that is old, and I won't ever get all my money back if I sold.
There a lot of things I'd like to upgrade, but so far PM has kind of kept a lot of that at bay.
I'm determined to keep this one. I miss my other cruisers. There's no other car I want to drive. I don't look at other cars and think, dang I'd really like one of them.
- Thread starter
- #37
These things are a labor of love, that's for sure. It's been good to get a good look at a J80, but I'm starting to reckon a lighter-duty ute/pickup would suit me more. I could be wrong but I feel like the Cruiser is more suited to heavy builds with armor and 35"+ tires. On top of all the deferred maintenance, it would take a lot of coin to elevate it from soccer mom spec. I don't plan to go bigger than 33s, so the LC is just more overbuilt than I need for the most part and more expensive to maintain as a result. The solid axles are cool but without lockers it's splitting hairs with the suspension travel vs a leaf sprung ute. From past threads I think neither of us are the biggest fan of the old-style 4 speed auto.
Having said all that, I'm finding it very hard to let go of it.
Mine is on stock 28 year old suspension and running 34s.
It gets me out in the bush and off the beaten track with ease. It has ample room for camping gear
I dislike utes as a daily. Much prefer the wagon configuration. It keeps stuff dry and secure, and easy to load and carry the stuff I need.
I like the upright seating, and like being elevated above most traffic. I like the space inside coz I'm a big guy. I like the Toyota quality.
It suits most of my needs.
Its not gonna suit everyone
It gets me out in the bush and off the beaten track with ease. It has ample room for camping gear
I dislike utes as a daily. Much prefer the wagon configuration. It keeps stuff dry and secure, and easy to load and carry the stuff I need.
I like the upright seating, and like being elevated above most traffic. I like the space inside coz I'm a big guy. I like the Toyota quality.
It suits most of my needs.
Its not gonna suit everyone
@Ozark80 If you’re considering a lighter duty rig, I would push strongly for a first gen Tacoma. I had an ‘01 5VZFE with the 5 speed, TRD package with rear locker. That is the only vehicle I have ever regretted selling. After that, the Tacoma gets progressively larger and less interesting IMO. I averaged 19mpg over thousands of miles, anywhere from city to 80+ road trips. They’re excellent rigs.
- Thread starter
- #40
The one I'm looking at is an 04 xtracab with the 3rz. No lockers, but it's lifted on 33s and regeared also.
I'm gonna try to get a leakdown test to make sure it doesn't have burnt valves though.
I also looked at a 99 v6 trd, but it had spent 6 years in Ohio and had some rubberized coating on the frame from Toyota. Looked ok, but that still made me kinda nervous rust could be hiding underneath.
