Barn Find 83 FJ 60. Did I do ok? Not operational Need help with where to even start

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FJ60LC

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E4243867 A497 41EB A4BC E7649330FFAF
6FF09DE7 0CCF 48DF A83B 21E82399F74C

I forgot to upload these pictures. By far the worst part of the body. Any insight as to whether that rear tail light and panel are salvageable?
 
CruiserTrash

CruiserTrash

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@FJ60LC what rust????? Seriously, my 60 has head-sized holes in a couple spots. If the frame’s good, get the mechanicals going and then address the small rust spots. If you won’t get to them for a year or more, wire wheel and cost them with primer.
That lower black stripe doesn’t seem to be original though - is it hiding something? Use a magnet and see if there’s bondo under the paint. Take the rear cargo panels off (and buy some CNC-cut ABS ones from me!) and look down inside to see what THAT looks like.

Tail lights can still be had new OEM. Same for the rubber end caps to your bumper (at least that side is missing in the photo).
 
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FJ60LC

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Reno, Nv
@FJ60LC what rust????? Seriously, my 60 has head-sized holes in a couple spots. If the frame’s good, get the mechanicals going and then address the small rust spots. If you won’t get to them for a year or more, wire wheel and cost them with primer.
That lower black stripe doesn’t seem to be original though - is it hiding something? Use a magnet and see if there’s bondo under the paint. Take the rear cargo panels off (and buy some CNC-cut ABS ones from me!) and look down inside to see what THAT looks like.

Tail lights can still be had new OEM. Same for the rubber end caps to your bumper (at least that side is missing in the photo).

I am just new to old vehicles and working on cars. Thank you for the perspective. I will definitely try the magnet trick learn how to take the rear panel off. The man told me he got it with the stripe - which seems to be a material that feels like bed liner and it wraps around the entire truck. where can I find the ones that you are selling?
 
CruiserTrash

CruiserTrash

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@FJ60LC

I’m relatively new to older vehicles as well but I jumped in with both feet - I sold my 2002 Tacoma for this 60 as a daily driver. I’ve had to figure out how to make it go. And I’m no expert. I don’t even comment on Mud a lot because there are so many people with such a wealth of knowledge that I don’t have a lot to offer. Except this thread - I really feel where you’re at haha.

Anyway, the point of the paint stripe is this: why did they paint it? Bedliner, regular paint, whatever. Why? Usually people don’t go to that length for 100% cosmetic reasons. Most of the time it’s because it needed paint. Why did it need paint? Rust or body damage. Maybe it was purely a cosmetic endeavor, but typically not. That said, your truck is fine. Not trying to cause you anxiety. I’ll attach a picture of anxiety at the bottom.

As for the cargo panels, use a flathead screwdriver abs gently pry the plastic pop rivets out from the perimeter. The panel is made of Masonite and has a tendency to rip, tear, and bend. PM me about my panels. I don’t really have a “business” so much as I made a set for myself and then got a few requests. Now I’ve had them drawn in CAD so I can get them cut on a CNC machine. I was using a template and a table router before, very labor intensive. Several folks around here make panels too - one guy makes them out of cabinet grade plywood I think. Mine are basic and sturdy and take abuse because I abuse the cargo area of my truck.
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F

FJ60LC

Joined
Aug 13, 2021
Messages
77
Location
Reno, Nv
@FJ60LC

I’m relatively new to older vehicles as well but I jumped in with both feet - I sold my 2002 Tacoma for this 60 as a daily driver. I’ve had to figure out how to make it go. And I’m no expert. I don’t even comment on Mud a lot because there are so many people with such a wealth of knowledge that I don’t have a lot to offer. Except this thread - I really feel where you’re at haha.

Anyway, the point of the paint stripe is this: why did they paint it? Bedliner, regular paint, whatever. Why? Usually people don’t go to that length for 100% cosmetic reasons. Most of the time it’s because it needed paint. Why did it need paint? Rust or body damage. Maybe it was purely a cosmetic endeavor, but typically not. That said, your truck is fine. Not trying to cause you anxiety. I’ll attach a picture of anxiety at the bottom.

As for the cargo panels, use a flathead screwdriver abs gently pry the plastic pop rivets out from the perimeter. The panel is made of Masonite and has a tendency to rip, tear, and bend. PM me about my panels. I don’t really have a “business” so much as I made a set for myself and then got a few requests. Now I’ve had them drawn in CAD so I can get them cut on a CNC machine. I was using a template and a table router before, very labor intensive. Several folks around here make panels too - one guy makes them out of cabinet grade plywood I think. Mine are basic and sturdy and take abuse because I abuse the cargo area of my truck. View attachment 2760326

that's awesome you know where I am coming from. I have some body panel plastic pryers around here somewhere I am going to find them and remove that panel. Will PM you about the panel if I need one. Your truck is lucky to have you. and Its great that you CNC what a useful skill. CNC and 3D printing open up an entire new world of possibilities. Thanks for the tips
 
MrMacdugal

MrMacdugal

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Give my buddy at Fro's Garage a call. Hes near Reno. He will work on anything with an engine and wheels or tracks. Hes very good and reasonable. He very well might get this thing running for low cost. Find him on instagram @frosgarage
Mac sent you
 
F

FJ60LC

Joined
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Reno, Nv
Give my buddy at Fro's Garage a call. Hes near Reno. He will work on anything with an engine and wheels or tracks. Hes very good and reasonable. He very well might get this thing running for low cost. Find him on instagram @frosgarage
Mac sent you
Thanks, I’ll get a hold of him
 
diesellibrarian

diesellibrarian

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View attachment 2759557View attachment 2759560
I forgot to upload these pictures. By far the worst part of the body. Any insight as to whether that rear tail light and panel are salvageable?

Get a $20 hammer and dolly set from Harbor Freight, watch a Youtube video or two, and have at it. You'll be amazed at how quickly the panel comes back to shape (or close). A bit of filler and sanding and it's as good as new!

And in terms of the rust: my truck was so bad that when I went through a puddle, the rear wheels splashed the *inside* of my rear window. I've fixed a lot of the holes by now, but you're starting miles ahead of many of us. Good luck!
 
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FJ60LC

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Reno, Nv
2E053F73 BBCE 400A 83AB 315B813FA226

Anyone know what lines come out of these and perhaps guide me to the part numbers?
 
Gundo

Gundo

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Earth
In fact those A/C lines are attached to the hard lines coming from the evap core for the A/C system under the dash.

The soft lines (both high and low) are indeed hard to find, but not impossible by any stretch.

You've got many other issues than A/C to chase down though...radiator et al
 
F

FJ60LC

Joined
Aug 13, 2021
Messages
77
Location
Reno, Nv
In fact those A/C lines are attached to the hard lines coming from the evap core for the A/C system under the dash.

The soft lines (both high and low) are indeed hard to find, but not impossible by any stretch.

You've got many other issues than A/C to chase down though...radiator et al
Thanks. Yes I know I’ve picked up a radiator, hoses, clamps. And have the fan shroud. This is going to be quite the project
 
Gundo

Gundo

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Cool - if you decide to rehab the A/C system, there are several posts here with part numbers, I put prices below

I've got a little less than $800 into my completely new A/C system and it literally blows ice cubes out of the dash...

Compressor $300
Evap Core $80
Expansion Valve $30
Hose rebuild $200
Receiver/Drier $25
Nylog Blue $8
Green O-Rings $25
A/C Gauges $60
Vacuum $40
R134A $40
PAG Oil $10
 

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