Band-aid fix for broken bump stop (1 Viewer)

[Gazziza]

So as usual I had a pre-trip hiccup tonight working on the LC. In my attempt to replace the stock bumpstop with a durobump on the passenger side it actually sheared right off!!! The driver side went off just fine. I even pre-soaked it penetrating oil overnight in hopes of getting it loosen up but I guess that was not enough. I think the bolt was essentially seized into the threads. I used a pipe-wrench to turn the bump stop and felt like it finally gave a little bit and then snap, the bumpstop just flopped to the floor. Sigh. So I don't have much time before my trip, like 24 hours so I need a band-aid fix. It still has the most forward bumpstop in the front but now I need the replace the rearward one.

My options would be

1. Drill out the remainder of the broken bolt and if the threads are damaged may need to use a nutsert. My biggest issue with this is that there is not enough clearance for my to get a drill into that spot straight on. I'd be drilling at like a 30-degree angle. It's a tough spot to get to since the front end suspension assembly is essentially in the way. I don't have time to take down the LCA right now to gain access to the bump stop to drill straight on. If you've worked on the LC it's a real PITA to actually drop the LCA down and then put it back together thanks to the swaybar.
2. Drill right into the LCA and insert a nutsert and bumpstop right into the LCA pad. This would make most logical sense to me right now as a band-aid fix. Again, I leave Sunday on a trip to Moab so it must be a fast solution. I'm favoring this one.

Are there any drawback to option 2? At some point I'll want to fix the broken bolt and fix it right but that may be a battle for another day. And who knows, maybe it's okay and I won't need to do anything further in the future. Thoughts on this?

 

[CharlieS]

Option 3 - live with one bump stop and deal with it after Moab.

Option 4 - 90 degree drill or drill adapter.

Option 5 - smoke wrench - oxy acetylene torch.

Option 6 - (what I'd do). Take a deep breath. Take a break. Have a cup of tea . Take the time to get the LCA out of the way. It isn't horrible to drop the LCA out of the way. First mark the position of the inner eccentric cams on the LCA and the lower ball joint with a paint pen (so you can get it back into the same alignment when reassembling). Remove the swaybar linkage bolt. Remove the two 22 mm bolts on the lower ball joint. Loosen the two inner alignment eccentric bolts. Remove the lower shock mount nut and bolt. At that point, the LCA should flop vertical giving you all the room in the world to drill and retap.

If you loosen your KDSS shutter valve screws, you can get things back together with a ratchet strap and loosening the mounts. Should be minimal swearing involved.

 

[daneo]

Frustrating before a trip!

Do you know if you engage your bump stops often? The photo of the control arm looks like it’s a pretty rare event. If you’re lifted they might not be doing much. And if you’re just crawling in Moab, bump stop engagement will be slow.

My 2c would be to get a minimal fix in place until a proper fix could be done. IE JB weld the bump stop where it sheared for now and then do a full evaluation of options after the trip. In the meantime, avoid getting air borne.

I’m sure there are a million other things to tend to before the trip, so spending all day in the garage trying to fix this could lead to other things being forgotten or not tended to. My thoughts.

Enjoy Moab!

 

[Sandroad]

I’m not savvy about suspension, but I do not like option 1. Don’t drill the bolt out at an angle. You’ll make proper repair hard.

 

[linuxgod]

Doesn't seem like you hit the bumps very often based on the LCA. Clean off the old bump, use gorilla glue/epoxy and maybe some duct tape to temporarily hold it in place while the glue for the old bump stop sets. I would guess that will hold through a few hits at least. the gorilla products are pretty impressive stuff... I keep a roll of their tape in my drawer just in case

When we're ready to repair it right, drop the LCA, pry off the old bump stop and scrape the surface clean, drill out the old bolt, tap/chase the threads, and fix it right.

 

[Boston Mangler]

See if you can find a 90 degree drill adapter locally?

They arent fun to use, and kind of sketchy, but they do work in this scenario

Option 7: Have a nice steel drift handy? Put in between LCA and the hole, and jack LCA until it pops it through the other side? Those nuts are usually just tacked on

Then just replace with standard lock nut

I wouldnt drill into the LCA and risk altering its strength and integrity

 

[isthatalexus]

Option 6 - (what I'd do). Take a deep breath. Take a break. Have a cup of tea .

This is the way.

(mostly a reminder to myself)

 

[Gazziza]

Option 3 - live with one bump stop and deal with it after Moab.

Option 4 - 90 degree drill or drill adapter.

Option 5 - smoke wrench - oxy acetylene torch.

Option 6 - (what I'd do). Take a deep breath. Take a break. Have a cup of tea . Take the time to get the LCA out of the way. It isn't horrible to drop the LCA out of the way. First mark the position of the inner eccentric cams on the LCA and the lower ball joint with a paint pen (so you can get it back into the same alignment when reassembling). Remove the swaybar linkage bolt. Remove the two 22 mm bolts on the lower ball joint. Loosen the two inner alignment eccentric bolts. Remove the lower shock mount nut and bolt. At that point, the LCA should flop vertical giving you all the room in the world to drill and retap.

If you loosen your KDSS shutter valve screws, you can get things back together with a ratchet strap and loosening the mounts. Should be minimal swearing involved.

Unfortunately there was no time for me to take down the front suspension with less than 24 hours before the trip. With about a dozen other things I needed to do/pack before the trip I’ll wait until I get back before doing a proper fix. I’ve only done the suspension on the LC once prior and there was definitely a learning curve working it with compared to say my previous 4R or Tundra. Until I’ve done it a few more times I don’t think I can say I’m necessarily proficient at working on the LC.

Frustrating before a trip!

Do you know if you engage your bump stops often? The photo of the control arm looks like it’s a pretty rare event. If you’re lifted they might not be doing much. And if you’re just crawling in Moab, bump stop engagement will be slow.

My 2c would be to get a minimal fix in place until a proper fix could be done. IE JB weld the bump stop where it sheared for now and then do a full evaluation of options after the trip. In the meantime, avoid getting air borne.

I’m sure there are a million other things to tend to before the trip, so spending all day in the garage trying to fix this could lead to other things being forgotten or not tended to. My thoughts.

Enjoy Moab!

Doesn't seem like you hit the bumps very often based on the LCA. Clean off the old bump, use gorilla glue/epoxy and maybe some duct tape to temporarily hold it in place while the glue for the old bump stop sets. I would guess that will hold through a few hits at least. the gorilla products are pretty impressive stuff... I keep a roll of their tape in my drawer just in case

When we're ready to repair it right, drop the LCA, pry off the old bump stop and scrape the surface clean, drill out the old bolt, tap/chase the threads, and fix it right.

Thanks or the tip!! This is the route I ended up taking. Put the bump stop back together with some quick Epoxy. Once I’m fully recovered from the trip and have time to fix it properly, I’ll take down the suspension, cut off the bumpstop, grind, drill out the old bolt and retap or use a rivnut.

 

[bloc]

I would not drill the arm in the first place, but even if you did the multiple layers of steel mean a nutsert wouldn’t work well.

 

[Tex68w]

I'd run without it or JB weld it back to get you by for the trip and address it when you return.

 

[82SC]

Just saw a slee video about upgraded bump stops for the lc200

Not that it helps you but might be a good option for your permanent fix.