Badlands 12000# behind stock bumper question (1 Viewer)

[crispy21]

Following posts of those who came before me on this install.

I run into the problem of the backside chrome rail hitting the radiator support. I plan on mounting the box up by the battery.

Is it bad to trim the rad support or should i consider mounting the winch upside down.

Thoughts and pictures of trimmed rad supports welcome.

 

[greentruck]

I would not trim the radiator support. It's full of coolant and heavy, needs all that support when you hit the trail.

Most winches should be cable of being mounted either feet first with horizontal or either down or up via vertical bolts. You set-up the planetary winch by "clocking" it - turn the ends to properly orient it and provide the optimal mount, including access to the clutch lever. Instructions should be in the manual or can be found in the Recovery Forum.

I presume you're using the HF winch mount plate? Is the problem because the winch sits too hi when mounted on the plate so that it hits the underside of the radiator support and the mounting plate doesn't sit against the underside of the frame? You could space it down a little.

 

[Azca]

It should not be. Necessary. I didn't have to trim mine but I did clock the winch. I also had to drill or enlarge existing holes in the plate.

 

[crispy21]

Greentruck thank you for the reply.

Two questions. What would or could i space it down with? Is there risk as you are asking the bolts/mount to take on some increased stress?

Second is that i clocked the free spool handle a bit like others before me have. Are you saying that it needs to be clocked more if mounted upside down? Talk to me like i am a noobie and stupid because that is what i am.

 

[greentruck]

Greentruck thank you for the reply.

Two questions. What would or could i space it down with? Is there risk as you are asking the bolts/mount to take on some increased stress?

Second is that i clocked the free spool handle a bit like others before me have. Are you saying that it needs to be clocked more if mounted upside down? Talk to me like i am a noobie and stupid because that is what i am.

Just to verify, make sure the winch manual says it can be mounted feet up. Or is it feet down? Keep in mind there are tiny drain holes that need to point down. I'm not entirely sure you can mount it with feet up, so you'll want to confirm that is OK per the mfg. IIRC, the stock bumper mounts I've seen have been with the feet down, sitting on top the mounting plate. If you hang it underneath the mounting plate, it's more subject to damage, too. I'm going to describe how to do it with the winch on top the mounting plate.

Just keep in mind there are limits to how much you can space the mounting plate down. The first is mounting bolt length for the mounting plate. I'm assuming you're attaching the mounting plate to the underside of the frame rails, with the winch sitting on top of the plate and between the rails, with the radiator just above. To space it down, you'd need bolts with washers long enough to go through the mounting plate, through the spacer you intend to add, and into the captured nuts in the frame rails that I assume you're using to attach the plate to get the threads fully engaged.

I have an Smittybilt XRC12 in an ARB, so about the same size winch physically, based on my have seen the Badlands 12k at HF so I'm also assuming they basically are when they're probably just close. I needed longer bolts like you need, but for something slightly different, to reattach the tie-down loop on the underside of the frame rail, sandwiching the ARB mounting. They are fine thread and sorta special order. Check with your local Fastenal or fastener vendor. Not cheap either, so don't order a boxful unless you need them.

So how thick is your spacer? Gotta be thick enough to gain the clearance you need, plus a little more. Stack them up as you need to. Half inch should be no problem, one inch OK, but more than that I think you may want to rethink your design as this will cut into your approach angle I suspect. 1/4" flat steel, could be cut to length, then have holes punched in it for the bolts.

This sound like a lot to go through, and potentially has drawbacks . You may want to consider moving the mounting plate forward some if you can, so that the clearance problem is resolved.

Your concerns about the strength are one reason why I suggest limiting the thickness to no more than 1" and making sure the bolts are long enough to be fully engaged. Because the spacer is sandwiched all along the contact area between the mounting plate and the frame. instead of only being aspacer at the mounting bolts, the stresses are likewise spread over this much larger area. Obviously, if you want an engineer, I'm not.

If you've already clocked it to get the clutch handle where you can get to it, then you're good. That's one of the big reasons to clock it. The other is so that the mounting feet can point correctly, which is what I was just discussing above. The options the product docs give you should be observed, so unless they say it's OK to mount it feet up, then I advise against that. The main reason would the drain holes I mentioned, but also because the frame of the winch may not be designed for a pull in that direction.

 

[jkilcullen]

i trimmed mine. Lots of trails since and no issues... not saying its right but I did it.

 

[greentruck]

i trimmed mine. Lots of trails since and no issues... not saying its right but I did it.

The 80 is pretty overbuilt, so I wouldn't be to surprised there's been no issues noted. On the other hand, the LandCruiser is overbuilt for a reason, so take your pick

I'm curious where your plate is mounted in relation to the end of the frame (or frame extensions)? Like how far back is the front of the mounting plate? That will give both the OP and me an idea of what worked for you

I've seen the mounting plate in the store, but never had a reason to try to fit one up and am curious about what results you had. I've also seen several stock bumper mounts using the mounting plate here on MUD and just don't remember anyone running into an interference problem with the radiator support or anyone mentioning needing to cut it. On the other hand, I trust my memory less and less each day...now what was it we were talking about??

 

[jkilcullen]

Hmmm well the plate was just about flush with the front of the frame rail when i was finished if I remember correctly, which was why I had to trim. I easily could have moved it out some but wanted the fairlead tucked into stock bumper as far as possible so I chose to trim about 1/4-1/2 inch from radiator support, If it did or does become an issue it would be a very simple task to add reinforcement to it. I didn't document the install as so many people already had but here are a couple pics in progress and one completed.

 

[jkilcullen]

One important note, do yourself a favor after installed before putting bumper on, unspool all the cable, remove allen head holding back of cable, cut 15' off and respool it. Unless that cable is perfect it will not all fit on the drum and it will never be perfect in real life. Its doable with bumper on ( just finally did mine) but i imagine much easier with bumper still off.

 

[Pin_Head]

It is the support for the transmission cooler. I trimmed mine with no problems.

 

[greentruck]

jkilcullen and Pin_Head,
Thanks, now I can visualize where the winch is sitting and what's suggested being cut. It's the vertical center support that holds one end of the T-cooler and the center section of the grille in place. A lot less weight than holding the radiator. Yeah, if it needed some trimming, OK, so long as enough is left that the support doesn't start flexing. You wouldn't want to cut it completely, as that would leave the lower end dependent on the plastic grille to hold it in place.