backfiring at operating temperature (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter yomumsbum
- Start date
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Coil getting hot?
How's the ignition timing?
How's the ignition timing?
Perhaps a vacuum leak when it warms up and something warps causing a leak. Make sure your fuel pump is putting out enough pressure - as gas warms up the vapor pressure rises and need to be over come - a weak fuel pump might not be able to do the job. Can you hear the valves? I set mine on the loose side (yes I can hear them) if you are too tight when cold, when hot them might not be sealing.
- Thread starter
- #4
it gets a bit warm
Im going to check timing this afternoon just forked out $100 for a timing light
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
First off- Stop making multiple threads for the same truck/engine it is very confusing and difficult to keep track of what is going on.
You're having a variety of issues and you need to start with going through the FSM Tuneup procedures to ensure everything is setup correctly. Once you've run through each step accurately and with care, report back.
You're having a variety of issues and you need to start with going through the FSM Tuneup procedures to ensure everything is setup correctly. Once you've run through each step accurately and with care, report back.
- Thread starter
- #7
thanks i have a haynes manual but i will work with this and report back thanks very much sorry for the spam im a bit overwhelmed with all this
The light flashes when the spark plug sparks. It momentarily illuminates the timing mark on the rotor, which aligns as per the manual
- Thread starter
- #9
one thing ive noticed is fig 2-31 checking governor operation. it says to turn the rotor clockwise by hand and it should snap back to position but mine doesnt more anymore that 5-10 degrees.
my dizzy cap and inside dizzy looks a but dirty ill take a photo
Those aluminum contacts inside the distributor cap still look oxidize on the the flats. Aluminum oxide is an insulator. I scrape the flat with the small blade on my swiss army knife to keep that insulating layer thin. Plus I buy/use NAPA Echlin caps because they have brass contacts.
firemanj92
SILVER Star
Also did you scratch off the tip coating on the rotor? They come with a black "sandy" like coating - RFI/EMI coating.
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DeskJock
SILVER Star
I would do a full tune up with new plug wires, plugs. Cap, rotor, etc. remove as much could be wrong.
What you have looks tired.
What you have looks tired.
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To underscore what @mattressking said, go back to your original thread and answer my question there.
- Thread starter
- #15
Update. the ajusted the timing, it was quite a bit out, it idles and revs nicely now and the coil isnt getting so hot.
however i tried to take it down the road and as soon as its under any load it bogs down and sputters not driveable.
but atleast it idles
however i tried to take it down the road and as soon as its under any load it bogs down and sputters not driveable.
but atleast it idles
Sounds like fuel starvation.
I'd check the fuel filter and float level.
I'd check the fuel filter and float level.
- Thread starter
- #17
new filter and full level is half way. however one thing i noticed was with a timing light on the engine if i applied vacuum by mouth to the dizzy vacuum advancer/retarder, the timing would not change at all. could this be my issue?
Yes.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
If you were sucking air, then the diaphragm is leaking. You have a vacuum leak.
- Thread starter
- #20
thanks, the vac line has some cracks ill replace that first. if there is a cack in the diaphragm is that a new dizzy im in for? or can you get the diaphragm separatey?
