B Engine Rebuild (1 Viewer)

[ClemsonCruiser]

Question for the experts here, will the H41 and bellhousing I have from the '79 B bolt up to a '84 3B? I believe I have read that this is possible but I can't find the info. at the moment.

thanks
JP

 

[cruiser_guy]

My FJ55 has an H41 tranny and a block from an '84 BJ60. I can't recall where the bellhousing came from but I'd bet it all bolts up. That assumes that the H41 has an input shaft for the "B" series of engines.

 

[jusmud]

Here is another question for the experts
Can timing chains be easily sourced for the B motor ?
As I am told like the cylinder sleaves they are VERY hard & expensive to come by

 

[lostmarbles]

Here is another question for the experts
Can timing chains be easily sourced for the B motor ?
As I am told like the cylinder sleaves they are VERY hard & expensive to come by

Rare as hens teeth Ian.










Because there are none .

Timing drive is accomplished by cogs (and never needs attention) in these robust engines.

 

[ClemsonCruiser]

My FJ55 has an H41 tranny and a block from an '84 BJ60. I can't recall where the bellhousing came from but I'd bet it all bolts up. That assumes that the H41 has an input shaft for the "B" series of engines.

Thanks cruiser_guy, the trans is a H41 from behind a B diesel.

 

[jusmud]

Went to get the head machined this morning and discovered that the head is cracked BUGGER :-*
Now have to add that to the list of replacement parts =-O
Guess better to find out now & not once it was back together

 

[lostmarbles]

At least cylinder heads, liners, pistons, bearings, precups, etc etc are all widely available for our engines and not highly priced either (compared to parts for other engines) Ian. Most, if not all, of these replacement parts come from China/Taiwan. Roodogs should have them. Engine Australia too. (Just Google and you should see more suppliers.) Any photos of the crack they found?

 

[jusmud]

Thanks Tom
Here are some photos of the head
Not sure if you can see but small hairline crack on number 2 & 3
Tested and report back stated head was only good now as a door stop or boat anchor
Will search for a replacement

 

[jusmud]

Thanks Tom
Here are some photos of the head
Not sure if you can see but small hairline crack on number 2 & 3
Tested and report back stated head was only good now as a door stop or boat anchor
Will search for a replacement

Heres is where one of the cracks are

 

[AlbertoSD]

Hard to tell by looking at your photos, but the crack you are pointing with the arrow is on a pre-cup which are normally considered service items. You can buy new pre-cups and install them in your existing head.

However, I am not sure if there are other cracks outside of the pre-cup area.

Good luck and hope things work out!

-Alberto

Heres is where one of the cracks are

 

[lostmarbles]

Heres is where one of the cracks are

Hi Ian

As Alberto says, small cracks in the precups are to be exopected (and a few of us suspect that even when you fit new precups, the new ones will show cracks within just a few years of being installed).

And there are mixed feelings about the cracks between the valves. This thread about sums it up:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/446318-3b-head-crack.html

And this one

https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/583974-crack-between-valves-3b-head.html

I can fully understand if an engine reconditioning shop won't provide any warrenty on their work with that head ... but those cracks do seem to me to be a lot less severe than those I've seen on 3B heads that others here have reinstalled and run.

Here's a crack posted by Bizzjet



Obviously the best idea is to obtain a replacement head but you could maybe use that one as a fall-back option.

 

[jusmud]

Thanks Alberto & Tom
Guess i will keep the old head (just in case) apprently the cracks are also in the water jacket between 2 & 3 but have no way of telling if this is correct
Guess i could always get a second opinion from another engine mob
Roodogs here in Aus have been helpful & have the rebuild kit for immediate delivery.
But i wonder should i be looking at replacing the cam shaft also?
As have had way too many suggestions from " those in the know"
So will throw myself at your mercy and will take IH8MUD forum suggestions as correct.
No there will be no V8 going in as i would like to keep it as close to original as i can.

 

[lostmarbles]

Sorry Trollhole and Clemsoncruiser for our hijaking. On the diesel board we can tend to be a bit lax with our board-etiquette. (I hope you don't mind disappearing into the background for a time.)

We Aussies and Kiwis in this part of the world tend to be pretty laid-back and easy-going about all manner of things as you may have noticed.

And besides, I always tend to think that any sidetrack discussion that has relevance to the original post is likely to be welcomed.

Thanks Alberto & Tom
Guess i will keep the old head (just in case) apprently the cracks are also in the water jacket between 2 & 3 but have no way of telling if this is correct
Guess i could always get a second opinion from another engine mob
Roodogs here in Aus have been helpful & have the rebuild kit for immediate delivery.
But i wonder should i be looking at replacing the cam shaft also?
As have had way too many suggestions from " those in the know"
So will throw myself at your mercy and will take IH8MUD forum suggestions as correct.
No there will be no V8 going in as i would like to keep it as close to original as i can.

Obtaining replacement camshafts and crankshafts for these engines can be problematic Ian. AFAIK no-one's making them anymore. So this is why these items are almost always reused.

"Taking forum advice as being more valid than that of your engine reconditioner?" ..... I'm not so sure you should do that. - I think it's best for you to make an independant evaluation based on ALL the information from ALL the sources.

When weighing up the information there are factors you need to take into account of course.

If your reconditioner has been in the game a long time and/or is well respected by people you trust .. then you must obviously give considerable credence to what they tell you. And even if they're somewhat short of this mark/standing ... you still need to listen to them because they couldn't normally be in business at all in that line of work without having significant and relevant skills and experience.

If they've found cracks showing inside the coolant passageways I wouldn't ignore that and it sounds pretty damning. (Meaning ..."they're likely to be correct in saying that head is useless.") And BTW ...If they're indeed "good" ... they'll be happy to actually SHOW you these cracks rather than expect you to simply take their word for it.

Remember that you don't know the background of any of us who're typing away on this board. Me for instance .... Well my BJ40 is so reliable that I've never yet had to do any serious engine work on it so my personal experience (where I really got involved in such work) is limited to a Triumph Tiger 110 motorbike, a series 1 landrover, and ..... Sorry my memory is fading.. It really is THAT long ago. However, in my favour, I have accumulated a lot of spare parts for my engine (including new pistons, liners, bearings etc) and I have had a long-term interest in these engines and so I've kept my ears open during a wide-range of discussions of them. (And I am a practical person with both trade & technical qualifications and a strong DIY-attitude.)



PS. Good to hear that you're one of us who're trying to keep our BJ cruisers close to original.

 

[ClemsonCruiser]

Sorry Trollhole and Clemsoncruiser for our hijaking. On the diesel board we can tend to be a bit lax with our board-etiquette. (I hope you don't mind disappearing into the background for a time.)

:

No worries at all, our little B is down and out for the moment plus we are learning a lot from Ian's situation.... carry on

 

[jusmud]

Hi guys.

Just cehecking in and advise that things are moving along quite nicely.

Can anyone advise what the original true engine colour is for a late 1978 B motor.

I have conflicting reports some say Red other Green

Many thanks Ian

 

[lostmarbles]

Hi guys.

Just cehecking in and advise that things are moving along quite nicely.

Can anyone advise what the original true engine colour is for a late 1978 B motor.

I have conflicting reports some say Red other Green

Many thanks Ian

Well I'll add "black" to that list Ian (and I've never seen red or green on an original BJ40 B-engine).

 

[Bittsandbobs]

X 2 for Black.
My '78 B is painted black. I'm not the first owner, but it has enough patina to look original.
Cheers,
B&B

 

[amaurer]

Hi guys.

Just cehecking in and advise that things are moving along quite nicely.

Can anyone advise what the original true engine colour is for a late 1978 B motor.

I have conflicting reports some say Red other Green

Many thanks Ian

Red or Green is proper.

The intake manifold should be Blue and the valve cover Pink. Other accessories came in a range of colors so use a mix of Yellow, Orange, and Purple and you'll be fine.

Trollhole will know what to do.