B Engine Rebuild

ClemsonCruiser

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So guys what turbo would you run on this motor? I was thinking about using a volvol intercooler from a 240 or 740. Any suggestions?

I assume a good fit for turbo would be a turbo from the 1kz-t or one similiar in size/capacity as it has essentially the same compression, displacement, bore, and stroke to the B, but I lack any reall turbo knowledge so this is just and uneducated guess:meh:

frome wikipedia:

"The 1KZ-TE is a 3.0 L (2982 cc), 4 cylinder, SOHC, 2 valves per cylinder turbo diesel engine with indirect injection. Bore is 96 mm and stroke is 103 mm, with a compression ratio of 21.2:1."

"The B is a 3.0 L (2977 cc) inline 4 eight valve OHV diesel engine. Compression ratio is 21:1. bore 95mm stroke 105mm Output is 80 hp (60 kW) at 3600 rpm with 141 lb·ft (191 N·m) of torque at 2200 rpm"
 
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So guys what turbo would you run on this motor? I was thinking about using a volvol intercooler from a 240 or 740. Any suggestions?

All the smaller/faster spooling 3B setups should be a good choice for a B as well. If your keeping boost pressure low, the charge temps wouldn't really need an intercooler, IMO.
 
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Just see if anyone makes a remotely acceptable oversized piston.

OR... you could bore and sleeve the engine.

Best,

T
The B series of engines are sleeved, according to my various FSMs. If you can find new sleeves you should be able to find stock pistons and rings will do the job.

An aircraft engine overhaul shop should be able to build up your liners with chrome and then grind them down to factory new specs. If they can't, they may have a supplier who can.
 

Trollhole

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The B series of engines are sleeved, according to my various FSMs. If you can find new sleeves you should be able to find stock pistons and rings will do the job.

An aircraft engine overhaul shop should be able to build up your liners with chrome and then grind them down to factory new specs. If they can't, they may have a supplier who can.

I think if we find the liners are bad we will just buy new ones with new pistons. And if the liners are bad I see a whole engine rebuild top to bottom. Do it once and do it right. No sense on being cheap on a motor that built right will give you 200,000 to 300,000 miles of dependable service.
 

Trollhole

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So is the B motor the early siamese f motor of the crowd? The turd in the punch? Is there really anything wrong with the B motor? Are there updates that can be done to it to make it better?

Anyone got anything or is this a rear bird?
 
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ClemsonCruiser

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So guys what turbo would you run on this motor? I was thinking about using a volvol intercooler from a 240 or 740. Any suggestions?

I found the 1KZ-TE turbo specs....

"Manufacturer Toyota (Hitachi) Export Specification (Steel Turbines)
Type CT-12B

Turbine size (Outlet diameter) 44mm
Turbine size (Inlet diameter) 52mm
Turbine blade count 9
Turbine material Steel
Turbine housing Inlet (ID)
Turbine housing Outlet (ID) 50.1mm
Turbine shaft Diameter 7.5mm

Turbine housing A/R

Compressor size (Inlet diameter) 39mm
Compressor size (Outlet diameter) 58mm
Compressor blade count 10
Compressor material Aluminium
Compressor housing Inlet (ID) 49.8mm
Compressor housing Outlet (ID)
Compressor housing A/R

*Wastegate size (ID) 30mm
Actuator spring rate 10 psi

Bearing ID 8.53mm
Bearing OD 13.55mm
Bearing width 9mm
Bearing material Bronze
Bearing oiling holes (per bearing) "


I have seen the CT-12B knock-offs from China on ebay, but was thinking about trying to find a Garrett with similiar specs...
 
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Did the 1979 B-engine come from a BJ40 or a Dyna or what Marshall?

Got any photos of it?

In my opinion a 1979 B is a strong engine but I wouldn't try and boost its power output.

The 3B engine is really better suited to "fitting a turbo" because it has "piston skirt oil cooling" (which a 1979 B doesn't have) and it also has a much more efficient oil cooler to help dump the extra heat from the oil.

Both engines (B and 3B) when naturally aspirated are lacking in power when it comes to
  • highway speeds with hills and headwinds (especially when towing)
  • offroad in soft sand or gravel
But having said that, both these diesels perform better than any petrol engine when off-road in most other situations (where "sheer horsepower" doesn't give you a big advantage).

To give you an example of the robustness of a 1979 B-engine (when it is looked-after and not modified for extra-power), mine's done 254,000kms and never had either the head or sump off . Yet I've just one month ago towed a trailer (that was at times loaded so heavy I feared its axle would break) from Wellington to Rotorua to Motueka to Christchurch and back to Wellington (which must be in excess of 1000kms over hilly country) and she never missed a beat. (The only fault that occurred was when a small bead of coolant leaked from a seam at the base of the top radiator header tank - which is something I've now fixed.)

Here's my eldest son posing for a photo in the central North Island then (during a brief break in the abysmal weather):

24Mar2012 002.jpg

That load on the roof of the trailer is a double bed that alone is so heavy that it's really more than we both could lift. (Further south at Levin I nearly lost it onto the highway when a tiedown broke from chaffing on the top edges of the trailer canopy. :D Luckily I caught sight of the remnants of it flapping when looking in my mirrors.)

But having said what I have, some people on this board have happily turboed a B-engine like mine.

And if you choose later-model diesels you don't always get "better" (in all aspects of the engine's build) from what my B-engine has. For instance "having replaceable dry liners" stopped in the early 1980s and "inline injector pumps" tended to disappear shortly after.

I'm just kicking things off. Hopefully others will chime in with different viewpoints.

:cheers:
24Mar2012 002.jpg
 
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Tom, obviously, belongs to the "what you don't know can't hurt you" crowd and refuses to fit a pyrometer for his heavily laden trips through hill country. :D

But I agree with his sentiments. The B's aren't bad in any significant way. The 3B does incorporate some improvements, but nothing that corrects a notorious weakness, etc.
 
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Tom, obviously, belongs to the "what you don't know can't hurt you" crowd and refuses to fit a pyrometer for his heavily laden trips through hill country. ...

It is a matter of having owned this BJ40 (and treated it like this) almost all its life without worrying about EGTs before Drew.

And I have confidence in Toyota. I don't believe they would have designed a vehicle that could suffer serious engine damage from high EGTs regardless of how heavy your right foot is or how much weight you tow (provided your injection timing and maximum fuel settings are left "ex-factory" and provided your engine cooling system isn't compromised at any time).

If I have any cracking of my cylinder head or precups ... then its certainly not giving me any problems. :D So I don't care.

:beer:
 
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I know Tom. And to be honest, I don't disagree about your assertions about Toyota's design - I suspect you're right.

... I just like giving you a hard time.

:D
 
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In my opinion a 1979 B is a strong engine but I wouldn't try and boost its power output.
The 3B engine is really better suited to "fitting a turbo" because it has "piston skirt oil cooling" ... a much more efficient oil cooler to help dump the extra heat from the oil.
Both engines (B and 3B) when naturally aspirated are lacking in power when it comes to
  • highway speeds with hills and headwinds (especially when towing)
  • offroad in soft sand or gravel
But having said that, both these diesels perform better than any petrol engine when off-road in most other situations (where "sheer horsepower" doesn't give you a big advantage).
...some people on this board have happily turboed a B-engine like mine.
And if you choose later-model diesels you don't always get "better" (in all aspects of the engine's build) from what my B-engine has. For instance "having replaceable dry liners" stopped in the early 1980s and "inline injector pumps" tended to disappear shortly after...

Just thought I'd add more stuff for Marshall's benefit since he's new to the diesels and wants this sort of info (I think).

Apparently the 3B crankshaft is sturdier .... but I'm not sure whether its ALL 3B crankshafts or just those after a certain build-year. (If my memory serves me correctly it could be Gerg? that found this.)

And a 1979 B engine has only 3 camshaft bushes whereas later B-series engines got 5. Does your 3B have only 3 bushes Drew? (.... A number of people on MUD including Drew have experienced wear-issues with camshaft bushes.)

And a 1979 B engine has significantly smaller exhaust manifold studs and just 2 studs for the pipe-connection compared to later B-series engines (that include ALL 3B engines) getting 3 studs. (And it is better to hang a turbo off beefier manifold studs.)

So to summarise ......If the man who's going to end up with this B-engine-powered 40-series doesn't like being overtaken by semis on the highway and wants to throw rooster tails of sand when playing in dunes .... then this is the wrong engine for sure.

But if he prefers looking at the scenery and listening to his diesel engine purr compared to speeding up hills, and likes crawling over very rocky terrain in low ratio and picking tricky paths through rocks, bush tracks (and short bog holes where foot-to-the-floor-second-gear-low-ratio usually performs admirably) ... then she's a good engine and if reconditioned properly now (and maintained properly thereafter) will last him well into his family's next generation before the engine needs to be opened again.

:beer:
 
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Hi guys
Just thought i would like to get & value any comments
I have been a diesel nut for the past 20 years with psst my past 3 cruiser's & 2 Hilux's being oilers and love the bloody things
However this is my first B motor & have just started to pull it down
What can you see
Here are some photos
 
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Trollhole

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Did the 1979 B-engine come from a BJ40 or a Dyna or what Marshall?

Got any photos of it?


These are the only pics I have right now. It's a 79 I'm pretty sure and out of a BJ.

We are driving to Ohio this weekend to pick it up from another fellow mud member. Looking forward to meeting him.

I'm already getting some ideas. I have a batch of parts that are going to the plates next week so I thought I would just take everything off the motor I could and get it plated while I could.

Also I believe I've been given the go ahead to let my great sense of painting skills flow so this might be a really interesting looking build. ;)
image-268377063.jpg
image-3384064070.jpg
 
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Trollhole

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Maybe paint the motor black and then have all the parts in zinc nickel and the fuel lines and bolts and hardware in zinc yellow.

Hmm got me thinking.


Go to get a new fan though. That one is toast.
 

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