B engine power issues... (1 Viewer)

[BJ40ER]

I recently finished the rebuild of my 1978 B engine with Edic. and ever since it seems to be having power issues, i didnt mess with the injection timing any besides lining up the timing marks. The cruiser will run about 55 but when it has to pull a hill it will bog down to around 45 it almost seems to have loss of power in the top end, especially in 4th gear. any ideas of what could be going on? any help is good help. thanks :]

 

[FF LC FREAK]

Dirty fuel filter? Or, a leaky primer pump? Or, a leak in any of the fuel lines/clamps. From my reading on here, at high fuel loads, it will suck air rather than diesel. You won't necessarily have a drip from that point.

Good luck!

 

[slowandsteady BJ]

Your cruiser slows down going up hills?..... That's wierd.

Without knowing factors like hill grade, gearing, tire size, RPM etc... Its a bit hard to dignose.. Get a pyro on there as well so you know your getting enough fuel/ too much fuel.
A turbo will help a lot.

 

[Dieseler]

Do you have previous driving experience with the motor prior to rebuild usually the power drops off depending on the grade and length of the hill...does it hold at 45 during the climb...does downshift to 3rd help maintain climbing power....sounds normal in my neck of the woods.
On the flat will it go faster than 55 I asume you are talking MPH and not KPH if it is KPH you have a power issue.

 

[BJ40ER]

Well, some more information on it, im not sure what gears are in it, those should all be factory. It has 31's on it for tires right now, and i did have prior experience driving it before the rebuild and it had more power even then when it was wore out.
Some things not mentioned before : it smokes white and misses a little when i start it at first and then when its pulling a hill it will smoke black (possibly just because of natural aspiration) not sure.
I checked for fuel leaks and i found a leak going from the lift pump into the fuel filter housing, I will get some copper or rubber washers and seal it off better and see if that does anything, if not I might check the injectors or the pressure coming out of the lift pump tomorrow.

thanks for all the help thus far

 

[Dieseler]

White smoke and missing a little is just a cold cylinder normal as long as it smooths out when warmed up and the white smoke will go away.
Black smoke on a hill is normal in fourth grab third and it will dissapear.
The lift pump you mention sounds like the primer pump it is common for these to leak with age make sure it is tightened up if it still persists remove it and replace with a after market primer pump , when these primers start to leak they let air into the system( I dont think there is a rebuild kit or seals available for the prime pump).

 

[BJ40ER]

Ok I've sealed off all the lines that were leaky. and found that it did not help my power issues, i tried advancing the timing a little just to cause more white smoke and then i tried a slight retarding which also did not help. As of now im stumped, now im looking for a place that will make me some new fuel lines with the banjos on it just to completely eliminate that problem 100%. Then i will get a pyrometer to see if im getting proper fuel.

 

[lostmarbles]

Hi BJ40er

When you plant your foot right down on the accelerator is the inlet manifold butterfly wide-open?

Do you have any air-intake restriction ... such as a dirty air filter (or some rag that's been left in there somewhere from when the engine sat around during the recent overhaul ).

Black smoke in 4th gear suggests to me that lack of fuel input is unlikely to be the issue. (I find it very difficult to ever see black smoke coming from mine except for "warm-engine-startup".)

Another possibility is valve timing. Are you sure you got these markings lined up properly:






PS. I'm doubtful of the "air getting into fuel" cause on this type of engine. And you've already tried adjusting your injection timing which would have been my No.1 choice.

 

[BJ40ER]

The butterfly valve is opening up all the way. I could see myself getting a rag sucked in there but i didnt and i just put a brand new paper filter in, in place of my K&N just to make sure but it didnt solve anything.

I was positive i got all those marks lined up and the injector pump lined up right onto its gear but I think I will double check all of that now. Thanks for the input Lostmarbles, I've always revered your information you put on here its top quality info usually :]

thanks again, I'll see if i can continue tracing the issue....

 

[BJ40ER]

Before i go into double checking that timing situation, I have a line (possibly vaccuum) that dead ends coming from the circled yellow area. what is this that it is coming off of ? and do any one have any idea of where the line goes? Also there is a larger line coming off the back of EDIC what is that? is that one just a vent? thanks again.

 

[Wedg3]

It's a vent for the altitude compensator.

 

[FF LC FREAK]

Same on the EDIC. Its a vent.

 

[lostmarbles]

It's a vent for the altitude compensator.

Same on the EDIC. Its a vent.

I agree.

The altitude compensator senses atmospheric pressure from its hose and the EDIC motor/gearbox avoids internal moisture condensation by venting through its hose.

 

[BJ40ER]

tearing into the timing this weekend hopefully, i'll keep everyone posted. thanks again!

 

[BJ40ER]

I got finally was able to work on the cruiser this past weekend and what i found was not pretty....

My idler gear was knarled up along with the oiler it rides on... not sure what caused this really... any clues?

this caused metal shavings in the oil but i checked main and rod bearings everything was still smooth.. whew.

 

[Gengis]

What is the engine history??

Some bush mechanics use varying methods to pull the main and cam gears off and also to jamb the cogs while tightening the cam bolt. These can lead to broken teeth or bits and pieces of whatever they used to jamb the cogs.

Also, did you remember to tighten the tow bolts which hold the idler thrust plate in place? At the moment this seems the most obvious.
G

 

[Gengis]

Also, did you prime the oil pump? This is the first of the gears to get oil from the pump and it may have starved for a few minutes while the pump primed. If this is the case, then your bearings may be next on the list!! I hope not.

G

 

[lostmarbles]

I got finally was able to work on the cruiser this past weekend and what i found was not pretty....

My idler gear was knarled up along with the oiler it rides on... not sure what caused this really... any clues?

this caused metal shavings in the oil but i checked main and rod bearings everything was still smooth.. whew.

Sorry to hear this.

Sounds like George has some good suggestions for possible causes.

Any photos of what's happened?

(I'm not sure what you mean by "the oiler it rides on".)

 

[Gengis]

If this is a late model B (like mine) then the "oiler” would be a tube from the back of the idler gear journal to the vacuum pump.

The only thing which could “mangle “things here would be bits of broken gear or severely misaligned gears,

I would have thought that you would have stopped dead, instead of being down on power.

Some pics please, we all have strong stomachs.

 

[Gengis]

The only thing which could “mangle “things here would be bits of broken gear or severely misaligned gears,

I would have thought that you would have stopped dead, instead of being down on power.

Some pics please, we all have strong stomachs.

If this is a late model B (like mine) then the "oiler” would be a tube from the back of the idler gear journal to the vacuum pump, but yours seems to be an older lady, so, like Tom I cant figure it out.