Axle Pitfalls (1 Viewer)

[Cruiserdrew]

So I'm sort of retiring the FJ40 for a bit as the FJ60 is coming closer to trail ready.

When the 40 returns, I have in mind to build a 1 ton rig. Planning SM465/Atlas.

On the axles, I watch Craig's list closely and axles come up all the time, and I need to know what to look for. I'm in very early parts accumulation mode, and other than the tranny, and a running 40, I don't have anything. I'll buy stuff it it is really cheap, since I don't need it and can wait. Won't likely be building anything for at least a year.

Front---Looks like D60 from Chevy is the way to go. What should I look for or avoid?

The rear is much more complicated, and it looks like 3 decent choices. I'm assuming a need to regear what ever I get.

1-GM 14 bolt. These come up all the time for $250 or less. What is the problem with these that they are so cheap?

2-Dana 60. Decent looking one on CL today for $225 from Ford. I could not tell from the pic if it was FF or not. (Only considering FF)

3-Dana 70. This is what I really want. (I think). These usually run $500-$750 but I've seen a few cheaper. There was one from Dodge that was 35 spline 1.5 inch shafts for $500. What am I looking for here? At what point is one of these such a screamer that you have to jump on it?


Thanks. And Mace, don't try and talk me into an auto tranny. it ain't happenin'

 

[Poser]

What size tire are you going to run?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

What size tire are you going to run?

Looking to run 38-40. I should have mentioned that.

 

[t wrecks]

I think all of these are fine choices but the 14bolt and d70 are the strong of the two in stock form. And thats only if the d70 has 35 spline axle shafts, if not then its comparable to the d60 because the pinion gear is the same size.

The 14bolt is a great axle with the only down side being is the ground clearance. This to me is a small sacrafice for avery strong axle. They are cheap because they are a million+ of these out there to be had. Make sure to get the FF version because it also comes in a semi-float.

I think the prices you posted are high, I paid $100 for my d70hd with stock 1.5" 35spline shafts. Shop around.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I think the prices you posted are high, I paid $100 for my d70hd with stock 1.5" 35spline shafts. Shop around.

10-4, thanks.

Like I said, not in a hurry.

 

[Poser]

Looking to run 38-40.

Pretty small tires for axles that large.

Spring over or not, you are going to be dragging...A LOT.




I ran 38.5" swampers with my Dana 60's front and rear in 1999. I then went to 42" tires to get some ground clearance back.



14B are cheap because there are a lot of them.

Dana 70? Better look at 44"+ tires.



If you are really dead-set on getting rid of Toyota axles and upgrading, I would look into fabricated housings running 9" or LC centers and Dana outers...

You are not going to run stock, garbage axle shafts anyhow, you are going to purchase some sort of locker/gears/bearing sets...

Research and spend once; Don't end up spending less money now, trying to save cash, only to end up spending more because you were trying to save cash.


What are you going to do with your axle platforms when you get them?

 

[LC_Hamma]

Looking to run 38-40. I should have mentioned that.

You could actually run bling'd up Cruzah axles in that tire size range, but it's *safe not to. High pinion 60's would be my 1st choise F & R. Ford side front & retube the rear. You'll have to do a massive shave running those low pinion pigs. Rebroach a set of Spicer 30 spline lockouts to 35 for the Ford front & I'd cryo the rear high pinion R & P & run 35 spline shafts there too. Run 5 stud Chebby knuckles w/ ARP studs & go w/ aftermarket cromo shafts & HD joints. Oh yeah, what's the budget?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

70? Better look at 44"+ tires.

Interesting-I've sen lot's of 40s on the 60/70 set up. I figured 40in would be about the max that would fit under the FJ40 without even more mods.

you are really dead-set on getting rid of Toyota axles and upgrading, I would look into fabricated housings running 9" or LC centers and Dana outers...

Interesting. I had not thought of that but the $$ might start to get crazy. That is a good thought though, as I have a bunch of Toyota 3rds with lockers.

are not going to run stock, garbage axle shafts anyhow, you are going to purchase some sort of locker/gears/bearing sets...

This is true. The local gear guy here is very cool and helpful and I'd let him hook me up with custom high strength axles, and rebuild the centers. I would not mind spending coin here.

Research and spend once; Don't end up spending less money now, trying to save cash, only to end up spending more because you were trying to save cash.

Don't worry. I preach this all the time. I like doing things right.

What are you going to do with your axle platforms when you get them?

These will ultimately go under my 40 in some configuration. I use that truck in the Sierras-Rubicon is 90 minutes, Fordyce is 90 minutes etc. After many years wheeling the 40 on these trails, I built a wagon to do the same. But since I like having a project in the works, circling back to the 40 seems like something fun. It's presmog, so the sky is the limit.

Thanks!

 

[Dusty]

drew dont do a 14b. such a chunk and so huge. i trimmed up my d70 about 3/4" with a disk and it has clearance the 14b could cant have without major work. and i have been running the stock 35spline shafts from day one and no breakage.

i love the 35sp diamond 9" axles. id do it that way if i could do over. by the time you are done you are so over budgeted anyway. just pull the trigger and have the crates delivered to your door. the 9" will do fine with a 38-40" tire.

what r u waiting for? stop thinking and start spending

 

[rusty_tlc]

We had an FJ40 in BBCNN for a while that had a 14 bolt rear. The running joke in the club was you always knew which line Brian took by looking at the metal on the rocks. And he was always hanging up on something.

So if you are going to use the new 60 on Rubicon and Fordyce where are you using the re-built 40? It sounds like you are building a Hammers rig.

 

[freds40]

Hey Andy,
I've run a 14 bolt on many rigs...main reasons is they are stout and cheap. The pinion has an additional support bearing that neither of the Dana axles have. The shafts are 1.5" from the factory, and it's got a bigger ring gear than the 60. The pinion in the 60 and 70 are the same size. I've bought 14 bolts for as cheap as $50 since they are so plentiful.
Everyone will wine about clearance on the 14 bolt. There is a lip on them that if cut off will take off 3/4" without cutting into the housing and doing ring gear mods. If it's flat it will drag. My 14 bolt with the lip cut off has 1" less clearance than my FJ60 front housing.

And last, don't know how many times you recall me getting hung up on 30 miles of trail but if I remember right it was once maybe twice and a quick back up fixed the problem.

 

[locrwln1]

Here you go.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=802597

You can build them as money allows, just setting back and collecting parts, plus he is local to you and Sean (River City) will do any build up you might need. Plus your choice of axle spline count and center section is only limited by your budget (True Hi9 cough, cough)

Jack

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Hey Andy,
I've run a 14 bolt on many rigs...main reasons is they are stout and cheap. The pinion has an additional support bearing that neither of the Dana axles have. The shafts are 1.5" from the factory, and it's got a bigger ring gear than the 60. The pinion in the 60 and 70 are the same size. I've bought 14 bolts for as cheap as $50 since they are so plentiful.
Everyone will wine about clearance on the 14 bolt. There is a lip on them that if cut off will take off 3/4" without cutting into the housing and doing ring gear mods. If it's flat it will drag. My 14 bolt with the lip cut off has 1" less clearance than my FJ60 front housing.

And last, don't know how many times you recall me getting hung up on 30 miles of trail but if I remember right it was once maybe twice and a quick back up fixed the problem.

Your build was the reason the 14 bolt was on the list. Dragging the rear diff is something I've done plenty even with Toyota diffs.

That Ruff Stuff housing is way nice. I'm going to have to go look at that.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Hey Andy,
I've run a 14 bolt on many rigs...main reasons is they are stout and cheap. The pinion has an additional support bearing that neither of the Dana axles have. The shafts are 1.5" from the factory, and it's got a bigger ring gear than the 60. The pinion in the 60 and 70 are the same size. I've bought 14 bolts for as cheap as $50 since they are so plentiful.
Everyone will wine about clearance on the 14 bolt. There is a lip on them that if cut off will take off 3/4" without cutting into the housing and doing ring gear mods. If it's flat it will drag. My 14 bolt with the lip cut off has 1" less clearance than my FJ60 front housing.

And last, don't know how many times you recall me getting hung up on 30 miles of trail but if I remember right it was once maybe twice and a quick back up fixed the problem.

I did like the pinion protection on your diff. that in itself is a major plus.

 

[orangefj45]

i guess it all depends on what kind of budget you're working with..........

for the front, i'd go for a gm60 or if you have some extra $s, get a high pinion housing and have it built up. you can use a ford, gm or dodge 60 as a donor for the outers or piece them together. i'm pretty sure you've seen my neighbors jeeps, he has the currie high pinion centers in them and built the rest himself. i'd be mor than happy to put you in touch with him....

as for the rear, you could go with the same centersection as the front. or you could get a d60 and weld 14bolt spindles to it for the 35 spline shafts. cheap way to get a beefy rearend.

hth

georg @ valley hybrids

 

[71-CRUISER]

The next phase of my 40 will be 203/205 with a chevy 60 in the front and a shaved 14 bolt in the back. It will be linked, coil overed and full hydro. I am also looking at tires in the 42" range. Either SXs or Rockers.

With the GM 60 and 14 bolt setup you get stupid strong (42s and V8), readily available and cheep. There are definitely other options out there if your budget alows but you have to spend a lot more for something that isnt a lot better.

 

[bustanutley]

Like Poser said if you are going to upgrade from built yota axles (assumption) and buy junkyard 1 ton axles you are still going to be running Junkyard axles. And stock front D60s are not that strong in factory form. It takes a bunch of money to make it worth while, money better spent starting from scratch, for the front anyway. I would be looking at spidertrax housing and 50deg steering knuckles.

For the rear, a junkyard axle is fine, 14bolts rock, D60 require upgrading to big shafts, and D70s are used by crazy people that blow D60 R&P.

Personally for 40” tires if your front axle is built I would continue using it and throw an atlas in your truck and see how it holds up. My cruiser front is still holding together very well, but, I am going to be upgrading the last thing this winter, the housing

If you do get a junkyard front 60 to do a budget build, stock 35 spicer shafts are the way to go and upgrade the knuckles, they break way to easy.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Like Poser said if you are going to upgrade from built yota axles (assumption) and buy junkyard 1 ton axles you are still going to be running Junkyard axles. And stock front D60s are not that strong in factory form. It takes a bunch of money to make it worth while, money better spent starting from scratch, for the front anyway. I would be looking at spidertrax housing and 50deg steering knuckles.

For the rear, a junkyard axle is fine, 14bolts rock, D60 require upgrading to big shafts, and D70s are used by crazy people that blow D60 R&P.

Personally for 40” tires if your front axle is built I would continue using it and throw an atlas in your truck and see how it holds up. My cruiser front is still holding together very well, but, I am going to be upgrading the last thing this winter, the housing

If you do get a junkyard front 60 to do a budget build, stock 35 spicer shafts are the way to go and upgrade the knuckles, they break way to easy.

I noticed Spidartrax has a 60° knuckle now.

 

[bustanutley]

I noticed Spidartrax has a 60° knuckle now.

My buddy has those on his jeep, really cool. His truck looks broken when he is full turn. Making the suspension work is tricky.

 

[rusty_tlc]

My buddy has those on his jeep, really cool. His truck looks broken when he is full turn. Making the suspension work is tricky.

Even a linked suspension?