I have a non-cable FF on my US 60. fAIK, FF axles. are all NLA from Toyota. I tried. You have to go aftermarket CroMo, at least here... you may have better luck in your burg.
Axle bolts sheared off? Why?
- Thread starter Stuckonanisland
- Start date
Content may include affiliate links. Please see terms for details.
Those axles look fine. I would upgrade the studs to ARP's if you can. Make sure you use a factory type gasket and make sure both surfaces are dry and free of oil/silicone ,grease etc.
Toyota ARP 2000 Hub Stud Kit (Set of 6) Pickup 4 Runner Landcruiser Samurai | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Toyota ARP 2000 Hub Stud Kit (Set of 6) Pickup 4 Runner Landcruiser Samurai at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.ca
- Thread starter
- #23
The splines on my axle seem to be much longer than the ones posted earlier. Here on mine they measure to 105 mm.
Thanks for the input all. I’ll post here as I continue working.
Thanks for the input all. I’ll post here as I continue working.
that 5-digit number is the call-out number. not the actual part number
Why replace the axle if its not broken? its just the studs that broke right?
Last edited:
I only suggested it as I see people chase this stud breaking issue multiple times and in Australia where replacement axles are readily available its nice to rule out a whole lot of issues at once - sometimes the axle can be bent, sometimes the dowel pin holes are wallowed out, sometimes the cones for the cone washers are damaged. The axle does look in reasonable condition though. Its especially important to replace the axle if you're heading into a remote area, for the sake of $AUD200 its nice just to rule it out after such a failure. The cable lockers and possible axle differences are a curve ball.
- Thread starter
- #28
Yes. I had not seen this problem before and wanted to make sure everything was reusable before I bolted it all back together. That’s when the cable locker issue came up.
But I am reusing the axle and hopefully the hub if I can extract the studs with no problems.
the shafts are the same length, the splines are cut longer on a truck that has lockers
Here are some pictures of the axles next to each other.
Both are from a 60s FF axle. ( OEM )
Right one ( short spline ) no locker
Left one ( long spline ) cable locker
Both are from a 60s FF axle. ( OEM )
Right one ( short spline ) no locker
Left one ( long spline ) cable locker
I have a 60 Series Full Float Axle. My short side had the same thing happen. I had a "Lock-Rite" in it and attributed the problem
to it binding and not unloading in a turn on pavement. at the time I had ARP M8 bolts and cone washers and it sheared them right off
and the dowel pins wrecked up the hub. Sent my hubs to @cruisermatt and he fixed up the damaged hub and drilled and tapped them for 7/16
hardware. Had a hell of a time sourcing an axle shaft. Ended up getting on from a shop up in Alberta Canada can't remember the name I can find it if you need it.
ended up Ordering RCV shafts (Not Cheap and a long wait) and installing an Eaton E-Locker. Never had any issues at all before this happened and Haven't had any issues since everything' been replaced.
✌️
to it binding and not unloading in a turn on pavement. at the time I had ARP M8 bolts and cone washers and it sheared them right off
and the dowel pins wrecked up the hub. Sent my hubs to @cruisermatt and he fixed up the damaged hub and drilled and tapped them for 7/16
hardware. Had a hell of a time sourcing an axle shaft. Ended up getting on from a shop up in Alberta Canada can't remember the name I can find it if you need it.
ended up Ordering RCV shafts (Not Cheap and a long wait) and installing an Eaton E-Locker. Never had any issues at all before this happened and Haven't had any issues since everything' been replaced.
✌️
- Thread starter
- #32
Ok crazy question. I get this may be a home garage fix for many, but I have to take the truck to a shop. All my tools are packed away and they’re too expensive here to go buy a second set that’s adequate to do this project (the brake drum is rusted through too, but I have no pliers or brake tools,etc etc).
The shop is down my hill, about 2km away. Will it be safe to put on 4 wheel hi and drive slow to the shop with the axle removed? It is absolutely not ideal but will it destroy anything else?
The shop is down my hill, about 2km away. Will it be safe to put on 4 wheel hi and drive slow to the shop with the axle removed? It is absolutely not ideal but will it destroy anything else?
Can you have it towed? That would be best.
- Thread starter
- #34
I know, Im just trying to nickel and dime since I have to pay for the service now.
Speaking of a hub rebuild, how does everyone feel about Terrain Tamers rebuild kits? They seem to be the only thing readily available to me right now.
You'll be perfectly fine driving it to the shop.
Guys brake these on the trails and drive home with front wheel drive only in 4 wheel Hi. One of the big advantage of having an FF rear axle.
The axle only drives the wheels, does not carry any weight in the FF.
Terrain Tamer kits are SUPERB.. the best of everything and the most complete kits I've ever bought. You will not go wrong, but you'll be paying a premium price for the quality and completeness.
