I had a dilema with fuel measurement when I added a aux tank (that had an Autometer sender). I wanted to keep my stock gage, so I did some calculations and did a simple modification to the meter. It reads fairly accurate (good enough for me). Here's the info...
Full Empty
Autometer spec 30 ohms 250 ohms
Stock sender 17 ohms 120 ohms
By adding a resistance in parallel to the circuit (easy at the back of the instrument cluster) it's possible to use an Autometer sender and have it read correctly on the stock gage. By playing around with some standard resistance values (and taking into account current and power) I came up with the following...
Two, 1/2 watt, 470 ohm resistors (available at any electronics supplier) in parallel with the circuit. Tied one end of the resistors to the gage bolt, the other ends to ground. I opted to have the meter read more accurately at empty.
Hope this helps...
Full Empty
Autometer spec 30 ohms 250 ohms
Stock sender 17 ohms 120 ohms
By adding a resistance in parallel to the circuit (easy at the back of the instrument cluster) it's possible to use an Autometer sender and have it read correctly on the stock gage. By playing around with some standard resistance values (and taking into account current and power) I came up with the following...
Two, 1/2 watt, 470 ohm resistors (available at any electronics supplier) in parallel with the circuit. Tied one end of the resistors to the gage bolt, the other ends to ground. I opted to have the meter read more accurately at empty.
Hope this helps...