Aussie locker removal without removing axle? (1 Viewer)

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Mar 29, 2020
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Mass
Is it possible to remove and aussie locker and install the origional spider gears without taking apart the front end? I'm pretty sad to have discoverd the po installed locekrs in the front and rear and I didnt realize that when i rebuilt both knuckles a few weeks ago. I live in the north and plan on using the 4wd in the snow. I dont need the lockers, for what i want the truck for they'll hurt more than help. Thanks again for all the great info on this forum.
 
I'm pretty sad to have discoverd the po installed locekrs in the front and rear...

First time that’s ever been said.

Mail them to me, I’ll gladly take that junk off your hands. :) Seriously. WTF are you talking about? Leave them be. If you’re reading tales from the pessimists about driving a front locker on asphalt don’t overthink it.
 
First time that’s ever been said.

Mail them to me, I’ll gladly take that junk off your hands. :) Seriously. WTF are you talking about? Leave them be. If you’re reading tales from the pessimists about driving a front locker on asphalt don’t overthink it.
I live in Maine. I use the w4d on the pavement all the time. This is my daily driver. I’d have an electronic locker or nothing at all. I also bought this rig because they’re bulletproof. The locker is a weak link in my mind. I’ll gladly sell you the old lockers!
 
To answer your question. Yes you have to take apart the front end and drop the 3rd.
You will break factory birfs if you are locked up front and rear on pavement, reverse and traction are not good for stock birfs.
 
To answer your question. Yes you have to take apart the front end and drop the 3rd.
You will break factory birfs if you are locked up front and rear on pavement, reverse and traction are not good for stock birfs.
s***. What’s the third?
 
s***. What’s the third?

32D46A6B-7A01-4C2B-8220-9F4B6F3D9BAE.jpeg
 
Oh man. I don’t think I have to heart to take the front end apart again. I have a lot on my plate with this thing right now. Maybe I’ll wait a year and repack the bearing and put those spider gears in then. As you can see I don’t know much about diffs. What’s the point of a locker in the front. It has a manual locker anyway. Seems redundant to me. How should I drive with it if I keep em in for a while?
 
Who’s driving around on pavement with the front hubs locked?

anyway, moving on..

You can do it with the 3rd member in the truck, but considering what you want to do, I would trade the pair of 3rds to someone with a good stock set matched to your truck - either FJ60 or FJ62. I’m sure there’s lots of folks in the NE who would swap with you.
 
Who’s driving around on pavement with the front hubs locked?

anyway, moving on..

You can do it with the 3rd member in the truck, but considering what you want to do, I would trade the pair of 3rds to someone with a good stock set matched to your truck - either FJ60 or FJ62. I’m sure there’s lots of folks in the NE who would swap with you.
I’m not driving on pavement with front locked. That’s the point.i think If I have 4wd engaged without the hubs locked then the Aussie locker will engage on the corners and cause strain. You probably know more about diffs than me as this is my first rodeo. I always just keep the fluid topped up and that keeps me out of trouble. I’ll be driving in the snow a lot in 4wd. This is my concern.
 
You can do it with the 3rd member in the truck, but considering what you want to do, I would trade the pair of 3rds to someone with a good stock set matched to your truck - either FJ60 or FJ62. I’m sure there’s lots of folks in the NE who would swap with you.
You have to remove the front axle 3rd member to remove the locker. You can keep the 3rd in the rear b/c it has a diff cover you can remove, the front does not.
 
Another option is to buy / trade for an open third member. You still have to take the front apart, but it would be out with one and in with the other operation. Will save a little time.
 
I’m not driving on pavement with front locked. That’s the point.i think If I have 4wd engaged without the hubs locked then the Aussie locker will engage on the corners and cause strain. You probably know more about diffs than me as this is my first rodeo. I always just keep the fluid topped up and that keeps me out of trouble. I’ll be driving in the snow a lot in 4wd. This is my concern.

I suspect you are confusing lockers, 4wd, and hubs. You have to manually turn a handle on the hub to lock the hubs in. Once those are engaged then your 4wd and locker will be active. With the hubs unlocked you can shift into 4wd but nothing will happen at the wheels.
 
I suspect you are confusing lockers, 4wd, and hubs. You have to manually turn a handle on the hub to lock the hubs in. Once those are engaged then your 4wd and locker will be active. With the hubs unlocked you can shift into 4wd but nothing will happen at the wheels.
Ohh ok. I see. This is my first manually locking hub and my first locker, so I’m learning every day. So yes I would definitely be driving on pavement with the hubs locked in the winter. Lots of snow.
 
Ohh ok. I see. This is my first manually locking hub and my first locker, so I’m learning every day. So yes I would definitely be driving on pavement with the hubs locked in the winter. Lots of snow.
I was under the impression that if I engaged the 4wd without locking the hubs it would engage one wheel and locking would engage both. I appreciate the clarification. I guess the picture is becoming clearer. I still don’t want the Aussie lockers. Haha
 
The manual locking hubs basically connect the wheel to the drive axle when you engage them. So when they are not engaged the wheels just spin freely and the axle shafts does their own thing. So you could still shift into 4wd with the manual hubs unlocked but all that would happen is the diff and axle shafts would be driven but the wheels would still be independent.

also I dont think you really have that much need to be locked in 4wd on the highway. My first car was an international scout with manual hubs. I had winter snow tires and living in Vermont drive in a lot of snow. The only time I had to use 4wd Was when I was on a dirt road that either hadn’t been plowed yet or if we had a snow storm and the snow was accumulating faster than the plow routine. Also if you have a rear locker then your truck will be even more capable in the snow in just 2wd. I would just get some good modern snow tires and not worry about swapping diffs. Run with the front hubs unlocked until you really truly need the extra traction.

And when I say snow tires I mean real snow tires. Something with siping blocks and a tread pattern designed specifically for snow. Other than that scout I’ve only ever had Saabs and with good snows and Driving skills in the snow I’ve passed many a stuck SUV.
 
This is a good example of a light truck winter specific snow tire

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I agree with the desire to remove the Aussie for snow.
I have one in the back and it's a disaster on any side cambered slope.
Any rear wheel spin turns into a sudden swing sideways into the low side of the road.
I imagine it would be terrible to have an Aussie in the front in snow
 
When it snows I never drive, I ask my mother to pick me up with her toyota yaris.

rear diff, is light to lift and remove:
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front diff, no access cover, heavy piece of teeth smashing buya:
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2_96499a6fa20193d8fee8cf225ac9e389.jpg



pretty important to get the right paper or cork seal:
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And important to me is always ask the sheeple, they approved:
2_3ff883deda692d644beef19fd2e6ccf5.jpg
 

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