After exhausting every option from forking over the money for ARB's, to retrofitting a cable locker from a newer cruiser, to planning to jimmy rig an extra brake lever for each wheel (It sounded good in my head). Myself and my wallet have finally decided on an aussie locker. I hear very good things about them. But not sure I really understand exactly how they work. Mainly how do they know the difference between pavement and slippery off roads? Do they wear out tires faster? I hear you have to "learn" to drive them on the street, so how exactly do you drive them on the street? I know detroits you are suppose to coast around your corners is this the same? Finally I've heard some people put them in the front and just unlock whatever side of their hubs they are turning towards. Does this method work?
Aussie locker questions
- Thread starter sandec
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Here's a good thread to read, and Pinhead has an excellent description of how the Aussie performs at the end of the thread. You don't need to "learn" how to drive them, rather learn what to expect. https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/19507-how-do-lockers-work.html
The notion of putting them on the front only, and unlocking the hubs for the direction of the turn is one of the craziest thing I've heard of.
I installed an Aussie recently...I've had no issues driving on the road. Once the snow melts a bit more in the high country, I'll be able to test it out on the trail...
The notion of putting them on the front only, and unlocking the hubs for the direction of the turn is one of the craziest thing I've heard of.
I installed an Aussie recently...I've had no issues driving on the road. Once the snow melts a bit more in the high country, I'll be able to test it out on the trail...
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I have an Aussie in the rear and open in front. A friend has lunchbox loskers in both. The issue with a locker in front is that turning can be more difficult. I have never driven his rig so I wouldn't know. I can sort of imagine how unlocking the inside wheel might help, but that's a lot of work. I plan on an ARB for the front when my wallet says OK. If I can also get my wife to say yes that is 
I did some Google searches and found lots of articles and a graphic on how the lockers work...
I did some Google searches and found lots of articles and a graphic on how the lockers work...
I run one in front and back. Love them
pbgbottle
Forum Lifer
From my understanding of these lockers (and I may be wrong..?) they have a sort of one way gear, meaning that while ever force is applied from one side (ie. drive side) they will lock and drive, however when the wheel tries to spin in the opposite direction it allows it to 'overrun' the gear. (a little bit like a slipper clutch in a motorcycle).
So unlocking a hub to turn would be unnecessary as the outside wheel will overrun anyway allowing turning to be easy. Have a look on 4WD Systems | Gear to Goannawhere under Lokka and then FAQ. It explains better then me.
So unlocking a hub to turn would be unnecessary as the outside wheel will overrun anyway allowing turning to be easy. Have a look on 4WD Systems | Gear to Goannawhere under Lokka and then FAQ. It explains better then me.
I only have one in the rear diff but sometimes in a real tight turn it pushes the front tires making for wider turn
I have one in the rear as well, it has acted a little funny when braking on an icy road, where one wheel essentially stops when its sliding on the ice, and other is on pavement. it hammers and jerks. But I'm not sure any locker would be happy in this case.
I have aussie's (lunchbox lockers) in the rear of my 40 and have front and rear aussies in my 60. I will say if you have never drove something with a locker in the rear it will feel different and will take a little bit to get used to. It pops, clicks and jerks in making slow tight turns like pulling into a parking lot or parking spot. In my 60 I normally just run 2wd low then shift to 4wd when I need it because it makes the steering very hard and it doesn't help to unlock one hub it still acts the same. I am saving up to drop arb's in both the 60 and the 40 when I can.
i've run them for years in the rear only. i live in "winter" states, so i won't run one in the front because i need 4wd sometimes on the road and front lockers will pull. selectable in front is ideal, but for the poor like me, an aussie in the rear is rarely noticed and well appreciated. you either coast, go into neutral, or constant throttle through turns and you won't notice it. if you don't, it may (not always) "unload" with a hideous sounding bang, but doesn't necessarily do damage. for the price, you can't beat them.
Here you go: A simplified explanation with pictures and no sales pitch.
http://members.cox.net/golddebra/Photos/LockerOperation.pdf
http://members.cox.net/golddebra/Photos/LockerOperation.pdf
I can attest to the "hideous bang"! The first time I drove my 40 with an Aussie in the rear it was raining. I live at the top of a steep hill. I turned onto my street and accelerated up then "BANG!". I thought I had sheared the pinion or broke a U joint.
I have learned to take corners a bit slower and eaiser. No hard throttle in or out of corners, especially on slippery surfaces. It also clunks when using hard throttle from a stop.
I haven't taken mine off road yet with the locker yet, but I look forward to it!
I have learned to take corners a bit slower and eaiser. No hard throttle in or out of corners, especially on slippery surfaces. It also clunks when using hard throttle from a stop.
I haven't taken mine off road yet with the locker yet, but I look forward to it!
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So the question comes from this locker chat.
What is the cause of the "bang" that can be heard on occasion?
What is the wear/damage potential from the "bang"?
What is the cause of the "bang" that can be heard on occasion?
What is the wear/damage potential from the "bang"?
I absolutely hate mine in the back. I like the one in the front. On the street it makes my rig buck in decel when turning and always bangs and unlocks in the most precarious times, which makes me shoot 3' one way or the other. It's coming out and I'm going to put in a mini spool.
Also they have a lot of play which makes it feel like you've got an inch of backlash in the ring and pinion.
Also they have a lot of play which makes it feel like you've got an inch of backlash in the ring and pinion.
The bang comes from the teeth seating under load. It doesn't cause any damage from what I have read. Just make sure the locker is properly set up and the measured gap is in specs. You'll either get used to it or hate it. When driven properly it isn't a big issue (my wife complains, though). If you drive your 40 hard and corner fast and use lots of throttle you might come to hate the locker.
These lockers are cheap so it's a trade off of cost versus function. If you can afford an ARB go for it. If not go for a lunchbox locker like the Aussie and learn to live with the quirks.
These lockers are cheap so it's a trade off of cost versus function. If you can afford an ARB go for it. If not go for a lunchbox locker like the Aussie and learn to live with the quirks.
All the noise and banging comes from drive side switching, mostly from changing from coast to drive in turns. In a right hand turn during deceleration, the outside wheel is driving and the inside ratcheting and then when you accelerate, it switches so the inside wheel is driving. The noise is from the teeth engaging and it doesn'thurt anything.
You can eliminate this popping and banging by slightly modifying your driving style. Slow down before turns and then gently accelerate all the way around the turn. Once you figure out that going from coast to drive or drive to coast while turning causes most of the problems you will be able to change your driving style to eliminate the noise.
Many people interpret this behavior as thinking that it "locks" when you apply torque, but this is not true. It only locks both sides when one wheel loses traction. Otherwise on dry pavement it spends 99% of its time with one wheel driving and the other not.
You can eliminate this popping and banging by slightly modifying your driving style. Slow down before turns and then gently accelerate all the way around the turn. Once you figure out that going from coast to drive or drive to coast while turning causes most of the problems you will be able to change your driving style to eliminate the noise.
Many people interpret this behavior as thinking that it "locks" when you apply torque, but this is not true. It only locks both sides when one wheel loses traction. Otherwise on dry pavement it spends 99% of its time with one wheel driving and the other not.
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fromme,
You're The first person I've read from on this site ( any site) with a true dislike of this type of locker. It seriously shoves your cruiser 3 feet one way or the other on pavement?
Any thought to the way the whole cruiser is setup or the power you have being the difference on pavement?
It's an interesting diversity of opinion all with the same vehicle! Some hardly notice anything but faint clicking and one fella really hates it with having the cruiser shoved 3 feet. The only difference I can see is the other changes to the overall mechanical drive train or the driving style?
You're The first person I've read from on this site ( any site) with a true dislike of this type of locker. It seriously shoves your cruiser 3 feet one way or the other on pavement?
Any thought to the way the whole cruiser is setup or the power you have being the difference on pavement?
It's an interesting diversity of opinion all with the same vehicle! Some hardly notice anything but faint clicking and one fella really hates it with having the cruiser shoved 3 feet. The only difference I can see is the other changes to the overall mechanical drive train or the driving style?
I will try to answer the best I can. First, I don't drive slow. I don't drive it like it's a car or speed, but I am on the more aggressive side. The Vortec 350 in it and my driving style probably contribute to the dislike I have for the way it feels when turning and switching between coast and load. When I say it shoots me 3' over, that may be a bit of an exaggeration, but what I mean is that when the thing finally unlocks, it does effect the steering and causes it suddenly change the radius of my turn.
I have used these before in the rear of my CJ7 and early Bronco. The characteristics are the same, but not quite as pronounced. I suspect the longer wheelbase is the reason for the difference.
It works properly for what it is, and it does the job very well off road. But since this is far from being a daily driver I'm going to put a mini spool in it. Sure it will wear the tires faster, but at least it will be predictable and I won't have the bucking. The bucking comes from the extra backlash designed in the locker. It's an unfortunate requirement for the locker to have enough room to "ratchet". It's probably 60% trail and 40% street use.
So I'd say for a mainly street driven vehicle, either spool/weld it, or install a selectable locker, the selectable being the most desirable but most expensive.
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