PabloCruise
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I am going to have to look that up and see what pumps they come with.
Aussie 55 Restomod (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter serenity
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I am going to have to look that up and see what pumps they come with.
Its just an rail pump. you could source a pump and regulator for cheaper I'm sure, but it takes the brain out of the install. I had my camaro in-tank pump already from the new tank and fuel system and bought the new regulator for $35. I think my pump was $60 on amazon.
serenity
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- #103
Further research has netted me more results; you can buy a 2F manifold to Holley 2bbl adapter then use a standard 2bbl to 4bbl adapter to fit the throttle body. No custom bits required!
I'm thinking the whole engine bay could do with some modernisation as well, so a dui hei will be thrown on as well as a new internally regulated alternator if I can find one that fits. Thankfully we don't have smog laws over here so I've never had to deal with the rats nest of vacuum lines and junk that goes with them.
I'm thinking the whole engine bay could do with some modernisation as well, so a dui hei will be thrown on as well as a new internally regulated alternator if I can find one that fits. Thankfully we don't have smog laws over here so I've never had to deal with the rats nest of vacuum lines and junk that goes with them.
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Get the $300 US non efi Japanese carb from www.cityracer.com and DUI. It's a great combo. Mine runs fantastic and you can use a stock (real) air filter
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Yours will likely need a rebuild and it will have various vacuum ports. His is a japanese replica of the Toyota non emission carb, bolts right up. No need to get adapters and a holley carb.
serenity
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Mine is already a non emissions model, the only vacuum lines from the carb is for the vacuum advance, one for the charcoal canister and another that goes to a diaphragm that operates a linkage on the carb itself. I like the idea of efi for better starting (my wife will want to drive it frequently), driveability, better efficiency and power and the fact that the only person I know who I trust to rebuild a carb is Jim C, and that's an expensive proposition for me.
I've also found a simpler adapter that will adapt straight from a 4bbl to the factory intake with a little die grinding.
This is the best photo I have of my current carb.
serenity
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No. Just cost. EFI is excellent no doubt.
serenity
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- #110
My wife and I have found a place to settle for a while so hopefully I’ll get the 55 shipped up after Christmas along with all my tools and parts. I’m looking forward to getting this project moving again So I can actually drive it one day.
I’ve been looking at tires lately, I want something that looks like it could have been original equipment.
So far I’ve found 2 choices that I like. One is the Toyo M55f in a 235/85r16.
The other is a truck tire made by Haulmax, an ATT202 in an 8.25r16.
I’ve been looking at tires lately, I want something that looks like it could have been original equipment.
So far I’ve found 2 choices that I like. One is the Toyo M55f in a 235/85r16.
The other is a truck tire made by Haulmax, an ATT202 in an 8.25r16.
I'd have to go find it again but there is a Yokohama tire from their industrial side that really looks like it could've been factory....
Found it.
Yokohama Y720 - 7.00-15 Tractor Service Tire
Yokohama Y720 - 7.00-15 Tractor Service Tire
Found it.
Yokohama Y720 - 7.00-15 Tractor Service Tire
Yokohama Y720 - 7.00-15 Tractor Service Tire
Im running haulmax att304s in 8.25r16s on split rims.. heavy tyre combo at 50kg corner..
yep just 5.5x16 split rims painted black.. note i've got a custom lift in there giving it about 3" more height. I ran them on my 40 with the 15B-F which didnt have any issues pushing them along but felt my brakes could do with an upgrade to stop them better..
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I run 235 85 16 now...they're a good size. a bit anemic, but easy enough to steer. from here, I'll look at going to the 255 85 16s. Fuel injection really highlights how much carbs really do suck...I am scared of using the DUI dizzy, but nothing wrong with the coil. get one of those mentioned aftermarket Cityracer dizzys if you're not going to go with an injection package. If you do go injection, wait to buy anything as you will likely need a specific dizzy to go with your ECU...of course, you guys also have access to the non US 3F carbs, intakes and whatnots...might be another way to go if you stick with the carb. HTH
serenity
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So after much shenanigans on the life front. Several moves, a lot of trucking and a divorce my pig and I are back home. I’m looking forward to finishing all the work and taking her for a drive. I even joined the local car enthusiasts group in anticipation of Sunday afternoon runs with the big blocks.
RUSH55
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Congrats! Nothing to hold you back now!
serenity
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- #118
Other than spare time. I got my first bit of it for a while this morning and got stuck in!
All the front body panels are off, every bolt and part attached to them is labelled and stored away for later. Next up I’ll start removing doors and gutting the interior.
serenity
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- #119
I have a question for those of you with experience doing restorations and major work on cars.
How should I break the project down into manageable chunks? What in your experience is the best order to complete tasks in?
I have a list of repairs and mods I would like to do, keep in mind this isn’t a body off frame rebuild and removing the engine is a major task due to limited space.
Body work
Paint body
Paint frame
Electronic fuel and ignition systems (Holley)
Head work, increase compression, new exhaust
Axle rebuilds, disc brakes, upgraded booster and master
Reseal gearbox and transfer case, install pto output
Interior clean up, re-upholster seats
How should I break the project down into manageable chunks? What in your experience is the best order to complete tasks in?
I have a list of repairs and mods I would like to do, keep in mind this isn’t a body off frame rebuild and removing the engine is a major task due to limited space.
Body work
Paint body
Paint frame
Electronic fuel and ignition systems (Holley)
Head work, increase compression, new exhaust
Axle rebuilds, disc brakes, upgraded booster and master
Reseal gearbox and transfer case, install pto output
Interior clean up, re-upholster seats
With my resto/repair/mods i'm trying to do it in such a way that I dont have to come back and re-do or undo what i've done.. figure out dependencies and then bite off small chunks (which seem to be enormous chunks with respect to rust repairs, etc)..
body work requires everything out (might as well get the seats done then)
you probably dont want to damage a fresh paint job while you try and paint the frame so do that before body paint
engine work doesnt need the engine to come out unless youre painting the frame/firewall too
interior clean up can be done once its painted
gearbox and transfer case can be done on the vehicle
you can do axle rebuilds at the end cos they are easy,
just my 2c
body work requires everything out (might as well get the seats done then)
you probably dont want to damage a fresh paint job while you try and paint the frame so do that before body paint
engine work doesnt need the engine to come out unless youre painting the frame/firewall too
interior clean up can be done once its painted
gearbox and transfer case can be done on the vehicle
you can do axle rebuilds at the end cos they are easy,
just my 2c
