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Nopethe ML fronts are 6.5” correct? Nakamichi were 5.25?
i have some low pro component 6.5” but need to see if i can bolt the ML surrounds in and mod to fit.
anything different in the doors that might stop this?
Shop that did stereo install on my truck said fronts and rear doors were 5.25"I thought all the 100 series front lower components were 6.5.
no problem with my 6.5" in the door as my magnet is in front of the cone!Front doors with Focal 165KRX3 - 6.75" speakers in the front doors. I remember the Big Beefy magnets hitting the window, so we had to adjust the baffle a couple of different times to stay under the OEM door card & hit the window.
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I should just make my own like you did and throw the whole dumb thing out. thanks for the pics.Front doors with Focal 165KRX3 - 6.75" speakers in the front doors. I remember the Big Beefy magnets hitting the window, so we had to adjust the baffle a couple of different times to stay under the OEM door card & hit the window.
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YesI should just make my own like you did and throw the whole dumb thing out. thanks for the pics.
I am also considering laying DynaMat in conjunction with a speaker change. I have been told that DynaMat is not meaningfully impactful unless it is applied to the inside of the OUTSIDE of the doorskin (which appears to be pretty hard to get to. Curious - how big a difference did your DynaMat install make? Great job BTW!Front doors with Focal 165KRX3 - 6.75" speakers in the front doors. I remember the Big Beefy magnets hitting the window, so we had to adjust the baffle a couple of different times to stay under the OEM door card & hit the window.
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I recently went through the sound-deadening process myself. Locks were slowly failing so I decided to replace all the little motors in the actuators (not terribly difficult, I give it 2 bananas) and while I was in there I did all the sound deadening on the inside of the door skin. Definitely a pain to do but to my subjective ears it made a big difference. Not sure how much music sound quality was improved, but just overall comfort and reduction of decibels while driving. I did also notice that most of the body seam filler was dried out and failing throughout the car (roof ribs to roof skin, hood support to hood skin, door bars to door skins) so while I had it all apart I used Sikaflex 221 to rebond everything and provide some extra deadening.I am also considering laying DynaMat in conjunction with a speaker change. I have been told that DynaMat is not meaningfully impactful unless it is applied to the inside of the OUTSIDE of the doorskin (which appears to be pretty hard to get to. Curious - how big a difference did your DynaMat install make? Great job BTW!
Thanks Jaysways! Super helpful. Curious if you have parts numbers for the lock actuator motors? Nice job getting that insulation on the outer door skin. Was that sufficient or did you end up doing the inner door skin (basically covering what's in the picture you posted) as well? I am going to run 6.5" 3-way coax in the rear doors and a component tweeter in the grill by the mirrors and 6.5" woofers in the front. Trying to figure out which component tweeters will NOT fit behind those grills by the mirrors (which I understand are actually glued to a mounting plate). Kilmat is way more reasonably priced than DynaMat, did you find any trade-offs? While doing the rear quarter panels did you replace the tiny little 4" subwoofers in the back? Nice job man!I recently went through the sound-deadening process myself. Locks were slowly failing so I decided to replace all the little motors in the actuators (not terribly difficult, I give it 2 bananas) and while I was in there I did all the sound deadening on the inside of the door skin. Definitely a pain to do but to my subjective ears it made a big difference. Not sure how much music sound quality was improved, but just overall comfort and reduction of decibels while driving. I did also notice that most of the body seam filler was dried out and failing throughout the car (roof ribs to roof skin, hood support to hood skin, door bars to door skins) so while I had it all apart I used Sikaflex 221 to rebond everything and provide some extra deadening.
I found working inside the doors made using a roller to apply the deadening extremely difficult at best. As a solution, I used plastic panel popper tools sort of like applying putty except with a lot more pressure. This allowed me to work down into the corners and get much better adhesion than I could using a roller. I used about 2 boxes of the kilmat 80mil stuff available on amazon which was enough to do the doors, the roof, inside the rear quarter panels, and a good bit of the floor, although I skipped over some areas of the floor that already had factory deading in place. I'm sure if you wanted to chip out and replace everything and do a full seal job it might sound a tiny bit better but I'm not sure you would really notice. I also added road kill 3 piece speaker enhancement foam kit (amazon) to help control the speaker sound a little bit as well.
Also to the main point of the thread, I have Kicker component speakers up front and coaxial in the rear, both 6.5 inches. Whoever installed them before used adapter rings and did a terrible job just drilling sheet metal screws through the doorskin . I'm sure some exist, but I couldn't find a solid sealed adapter that would work so I bought a huge $20 HPDE cutting board and made some adapters. I don't think it was the ideal material but it seems to work just fine. I made a print file to 3D print some but my brother in law was having some struggles getting his printer to play nice with PETG filament so I had to make do with what I could make on my own. If anyone wants the 3D file just send me a PM.
Happy to answer any other questions about the install.
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(I know the sikaflex is not the right product to use, but after talking with my father-in-law who is a long-time body man I came to the conclusion the sikaflex would work great for significantly less than the correct 3M expanding body joint filler, while also remaining much more user friendly to anyone who has ever used a caulk gun before. His advice was to ensure whatever product I used remained flexible to account for thermal expansion/shrinkage, and also did not shrink during curing as it would warp the panels. FYI One tube was enough to do all 4 door bars, all roof ribs, and the hood support. I probably could have used 2 tubes if I went super gung ho but I think 1 tube was just fine. I've had it in for about 2 months now and it seems to work amazing. )
Actuator Motors: 4X FC-280 Motors with Collar - Car Door Lock and Mirror Motors - FC-280PT-22125 | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/282890358233 - not sure what the part number is as Toyota doesn't sell the little motors separately but there are a few write-ups on here and a few youtube videos as well. $25 for all 4 sure beats $200+ per door, especially if you are already going to be doing work inside the door. Basically, just remove the full actuator assembly from the door, disassemble it until you just have the black plastic housing separated from all the extra cables and brackets, and then you have to gently pry/break open the black housing. A used a small flathead to sort of pry it open (try a few different edges to find a weak spot) and then just sort of work it around until you can open it. The motor just snaps onto two terminals embedded in the housing so zero wiring and the helix screw just swaps out. Then just use some JB weld plastic epoxy to glue it back together. (I used a toothpick to get just enough in the joint so it wouldn't squeeze out everywhere and I could repeat if need be)Thanks Jaysways! Super helpful. Curious if you have parts numbers for the lock actuator motors? Nice job getting that insulation on the outer door skin. Was that sufficient or did you end up doing the inner door skin (basically covering what's in the picture you posted) as well? I am going to run 6.5" 3-way coax in the rear doors and a component tweeter in the grill by the mirrors and 6.5" woofers in the front. Trying to figure out which component tweeters will NOT fit behind those grills by the mirrors (which I understand are actually glued to a mounting plate). Kilmat is way more reasonably priced than DynaMat, did you find any trade-offs? While doing the rear quarter panels did you replace the tiny little 4" subwoofers in the back? Nice job man!
Hey Jaysways - did you replace (or just re-use) the thin, saran-wrap-like vapor barrier that originally covered everything in your photo (including the two cavities that enable you to access the outer door skin) when first removing the door card? Is there a specific type/brand of adhesive to attach/re-attach it?