Audio Dead Horse, grab your sticks! (1 Viewer)

[brm98]

I know, I know...SEARCH YOU SUM*$&#!

But after doing that and resealing all speakers it still sounds like trash. Very tinny and a lot of reverb, sub still sounds horrible. I'm not sure if it's blown speakers, blown amp, head unit issue, low blinker fluid???? What would you recommend the best course of action be?

Buy all new crap and have a marginal system that doesn't have constant static or annoying reverb

Or try to rehab the factory audio one speaker at a time and amp until it's up to par?

I am not an audiophile by any means but I would like to listen to music that doesn't sound like it's coming from my phone while it's sitting in a solo cup.

 

[ramangain]

Do you have the ML system?

 

[brm98]

Do you have the ML system?

Yes, it's an '06 LX with ML.

 

[ramangain]

OK. If you can find some efficient, 4-ohm components that don't require 100W RMS, you should be able to swap in the woofer and tweeter on the fronts (just disconnect the midrange) and be much better off.

You'll find all sorts of info on how the stock ML speakers all have weird impedance. I dug into this. It is done this way since the 3 way stock speakers don't use a proper crossover network, and they all load the amp off of the same two speaker wires. The audio engineers played it safe and designed the speakers so that the aggregate impedance they present to the amp never drops all that far below 4 ohms. Go with 4 ohm separates (with a proper crossover network) up front and coaxials in back, and your mids and highs should be much better.

The sub is another matter. You do have options, and keep in mind the recommendations made in older threads recommend discontinued hardware now.

EDIT: I don't know if the above holds for the JBL or Nakamichi systems, but it will hold for the ML systems.

 

[Pucker5]

Planning is king, whats your budget and what’s your output expectation. Based on what you’re saying I would check your factory amp first to make sure all channels have output....basically so you can cross out that it’s not the ml amp. Then you could do the following

sub - wire this dual 1 ohm sub series To series parallel to match the 2 Ohm sub channel on the ml amp
Amazon product ASIN B01BLVEZG6
Speakers - you can absolutely do what one of the responders said and get a comp set that is 4 ohms but since you already you have already removed speakers you can Also just find raw drivers that match the ohm impedance of the driver your replacing.

good drivers -

Home

Visaton W170S-8 6.5" Woofer with Treated Paper Cone 8 OhmVisaton's 9025 W170S 6-1/2" woofer features a coated paper cone, durable rubber surround, and a bumped back plate to allow all 4.25 mm of Xmax to be used with an excursion limit of ±10 mm. A very balanced and extended frequency response...

www.parts-express.com

your mid and tweeters probably aren’t blown but there’s options for that

all that above isn’t going to give you crazy controllable precision tunable audio output So it you want that your best to do the tape deck swap and go all new everything. I just made a recommendation that all in was right at $600 if you’re interested pm me

 

[brm98]

Thank you guys for the reply. I don't have a budget in mind only that I want both good and cheap.

But for real, I just want a decent system to listen to music. I'm not planning on entering competitions, I'm happy with a 6-7 out of 10. I'm listening to a 4 so anything is an improvement.

 

[ramangain]

Thank you guys for the reply. I don't have a budget in mind only that I want both good and cheap.

But for real, I just want a decent system to listen to music. I'm not planning on entering competitions, I'm happy with a 6-7 out of 10. I'm listening to a 4 so anything is an improvement.

I'd try that Kicker sub (find a flavor that can get you to about 8 ohms when connected) and look for some decent components for the front doors and coaxials for the rear doors. Since you'll be using the ML amp, avoid the Infinity Kappas since they run around 2.5 ohms, as the ML amp may be unhappy with that impedance load.

 

[Pucker5]

I'd try that Kicker sub (find a flavor that can get you to about 8 ohms when connected) and look for some decent components for the front doors and coaxials for the rear doors. Since you'll be using the ML amp, avoid the Infinity Kappas since they run around 2.5 ohms, as the ML amp may be unhappy with that impedance load.

Wait! I thought the Factory sub was a 2 ohm load. My bad! If it’s 8 ohm then a d4 in parrallel or d8 To a 8 ohm load would get you there. Replace the sub and the door 6.5s and I bet that gets you where you want to be.

d8 option

Home

Goldwood GW-406D 6-1/2" Poly DVC Subwoofer ShieldedThis woofer provides added versatility over single voice coil woofers by allowing the use of both channels of a stereo amplifier to driver one speaker, and the ability to wire the voice coils in varying configurations. They feature polymer...

www.parts-express.com