Atrac not working FIXED(video inside) (1 Viewer)

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"High range provides a less aggressive A-TRAC operation, use in flat, open, slick areas where lots of wheel spin is necessary, keeping the 100 in high range will not allow A-TRAC to intervene with high pressure, locking the CDL will shut off VSC letting you slide and maneuver with minimal electronic intervention. Low range will boost the fluid pressure in the system making A-TRAC bite quicker. "

 
"High range provides a less aggressive A-TRAC operation, use in flat, open, slick areas where lots of wheel spin is necessary, keeping the 100 in high range will not allow A-TRAC to intervene with high pressure, locking the CDL will shut off VSC letting you slide and maneuver with minimal electronic intervention. Low range will boost the fluid pressure in the system making A-TRAC bite quicker. "

Yeah, the uphill in the snow is pretty flat and slick.

Still not sure if it’s working properly but as you can see it just open diff in a ditch, which isn’t flat.

No interference with Atrac on flat uphill steering wheel straight
 
Yeah, the uphill in the snow is pretty flat and slick.

Still not sure if it’s working properly but as you can see it just open diff in a ditch, which isn’t flat.

No interference with Atrac on flat uphill steering wheel straight
Edited**

At first I was thinking this isn't enough to make it kick on but it does look pretty icy and ABS kicked on...... I have a steep icy hill climb on the way home and if I hammer down while going up in a straight line the Atrac will kick on.

But in your second video I would think it would have worked properly for sure while in high range....hmmmm this is a doozie.


As for stability control, if you found a open parking lot with some ice and gave it a little scandavian flick you should feel and hear ( beeping ) the VSC should kick in. and boy oh boy whoever doesn't like the VSV system is a nut. I was about to go off the road last week and I could feel it grab each individual brake and straighten me right back out. With center diff locked I'd be able to drive in deeper snow but when I am on hard pack ice I never lock center diff, I'd rather have VSC active.
 
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Edited**

At first I was thinking this isn't enough to make it kick on but it does look pretty icy and ABS kicked on...... I have a steep icy hill climb on the way home and if I hammer down while going up in a straight line the Atrac will kick on.

But in your second video I would think it would have worked properly for sure while in high range....hmmmm this is a doozie.


As for stability control, if you found a open parking lot with some ice and gave it a little scandavian flick you should feel and hear ( beeping ) the VSC should kick in. and boy oh boy whoever doesn't like the VSV system is a nut. I was about to go off the road last week and I could feel it grab each individual brake and straighten me right back out. With center diff locked I'd be able to drive in deeper snow but when I am on hard pack ice I never lock center diff, I'd rather have VSC active.
That’s what I was thinking too, it acts like an open diff which it is without the Atrac.

I was purposefully trying to keep the rpm’s below 2500 while it was spinning.

If I hammered it down it would shoot all the way up to 5k and probably shift etc

When I first got the truck I thought the Atrac didn’t work, but then I put it in 4L and it immediately kicked in.

Would be cool to not have the open diff feeling without having to go into 4L.

Just wanted to make sure this is not functioning how it should…
 
That’s what I was thinking too, it acts like an open diff which it is without the Atrac.

I was purposefully trying to keep the rpm’s below 2500 while it was spinning.

If I hammered it down it would shoot all the way up to 5k and probably shift etc

When I first got the truck I thought the Atrac didn’t work, but then I put it in 4L and it immediately kicked in.

Would be cool to not have the open diff feeling without having to go into 4L.

Just wanted to make sure this is not functioning how it should…

I'm guess it depends on how icy that road was but if it's icy enough for ABS to trigger, you giving it 2-2500 rpms up hill would prob cause ATRAC to kick in. Actually just ignoring that video of the ice road, looking at the loose gravel video the proof is in the pudding. It wanted traction control to kick in and in Low it applied it but for some reason nothing in High.

I'm not sure how to diagnose that issue especially without any warning / fault codes on the dash.
 
I'm guess it depends on how icy that road was but if it's icy enough for ABS to trigger, you giving it 2-2500 rpms up hill would prob cause ATRAC to kick in. Actually just ignoring that video of the ice road, looking at the loose gravel video the proof is in the pudding. It wanted traction control to kick in and in Low it applied it but for some reason nothing in High.

I'm not sure how to diagnose that issue especially without any warning / fault codes on the dash.
I’ll throw the scangauge on it and see if I get anything and report back
 
I’ll throw the scangauge on it and see if I get anything and report back
Yeah and maybe just a courtesy battery disconnect and reset.

Browsing around and it's been noted that if ABS works ATRAC should also be functional. If they had a fault it should throw a light.

Some people have even mentioned a brake light being out being at play with some of this not working properly but that sounds absurd. Others have said no warning lights on but wheel speed and other sensor may still be faulty.

 
Yeah and maybe just a courtesy battery disconnect and reset.

Browsing around and it's been noted that if ABS works ATRAC should also be functional. If they had a fault it should throw a light.

Some people have even mentioned a brake light being out being at play with some of this not working properly but that sounds absurd. Others have said no warning lights on but wheel speed and other sensor may still be faulty.

Weird things to note, dash went out driving down interstate.

Turned back on by banging on it.

No CDL light comes on when I press the button but can hear it in the glove box click.

No VCS, Atrac lights or anything on dash when wheeling etc

Basically no lights pertaining to the 4wd

The dash has been tampered with I can see from the gaps in the panels
 
Weird things to note, dash went out driving down interstate.

Turned back on by banging on it.

No CDL light comes on when I press the button but can hear it in the glove box click.

No VCS, Atrac lights or anything on dash when wheeling etc

Basically no lights pertaining to the 4wd

The dash has been tampered with I can see from the gaps in the panels
That's depressing, this was a recent purchase? Maybe put the VIN into Toyota owners and see if there is some helpful history. Try and disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 and then reset, probably won't do s*** but a decent first step to take.


We'll need a more electrical savvy person chime in here.
 
Weird things to note, dash went out driving down interstate.

Turned back on by banging on it.

Probably should’ve included that in the first post. That’s not weird. That’s worrisome.
 
If you remove the trim below the gauge cluster, there are two screws that essentially pull the cluster into the dash to make the positive electrical connections. Yours may be loose. Be care not to over tighten them - not something you'd want to strip the threads on.
 
Probably should’ve included that in the first post. That’s not weird. That’s
If you remove the trim below the gauge cluster, there are two screws that essentially pull the cluster into the dash to make the positive electrical connections. Yours may be loose. Be care not to over tighten them - not something you'd want to strip the threads on.
Awesome thanks!!
 
Was going to point out that no lights on the dash in any of your videos didn't make much sense to me but figured that was obvious so maybe I was missing something.

If CDL was locked, should see VSC and CDL lights on while ****ing around. If not, shouldn't expect Atrac to function.
 
Was going to point out that no lights on the dash in any of your videos didn't make much sense to me but figured that was obvious so maybe I was missing something.

If CDL was locked, should see VSC and CDL lights on while f***ing around. If not, shouldn't expect Atrac to function.
That’s another thing, my cdl light won’t come on and it’s also not locking.

Just researched and I’ll change the switch on the case, make sure the dash is attached properly and go from there
 
That’s another thing, my cdl light won’t come on and it’s also not locking.

Just researched and I’ll change the switch on the case, make sure the dash is attached properly and go from there
The switch on top of the transfer case only turns the light on and off. If it isn’t locking you have more going on, unfortunately.
 
If CDL was locked, should see VSC and CDL lights on. If not, shouldn't expect Atrac to function.
In my '06 LX, if I'm not mistaken, my ATRAC worked perfectly in 4H without CDL locked.
 
I was on an icy road this morning and had ATRAC come on in 4H, no CDL engaged.
 
In my '06 LX, if I'm not mistaken, my ATRAC worked perfectly in 4H without CDL locked.

I was on an icy road this morning and had ATRAC come on in 4H, no CDL engaged.


How would you or the vehicle distinguish between VSC and ATRAC in that scenario? If the VSC is active and a wheel or several are slipping, isn't it VSC's job to activate? I might be missing something.
 

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