At what point do you install a dual battery system? (1 Viewer)

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When do you make the call whether or not to go with an aux battery?

I want to install lights, radios, more AC output power, winch, fridge, etc(do I need 2 batteries to run all this stuff?). This would happen over time, but I would hate to get the lights and radios done for example and then have to re run the wiring to an aux battery setup.

I want to say, ok fine just make the dual battery the first thing that happens. But then there's really no load on it.

What would you do?
 
I did the dual battery setup in my previous truck. After the expenses, the work, the complications, and everything else that was involved, I came to one simple conclusion: I'll only ever again do a dual battery setup if I plan to be camping in my truck for at a MINIMUM one month at a time.

A portable setup like a GoalZero Lithium pack is a 10x better option for anyone that needs to run a fridge, but isn't camping for months at a time.

All of what you've listed can easily run off a single, OEM battery. Just let the truck run for 30-60mins every day, and you'll almost certainly be fine.
 
What do you mean by "more AC output power? The vehicle runs off DC .

A second battery would really be a good idea with a fridge . I run all my accessories off the aux battery. Only the winch is run off the main battery .

You will not have an issue running lights / radios off the main battery. Just remember to shut them off or wire the circuit to switched power.

I highly recommend a DC to DC charger. The old standby solenoid system just does not work that well with the "smart" charging system
 
What do you mean by "more AC output power? The vehicle runs off DC .

A second battery would really be a good idea with a fridge . I run all my accessories off the aux battery. Only the winch is run off the main battery .

You will not have an issue running lights / radios off the main battery. Just remember to shut them off or wire the circuit to switched power.

I highly recommend a DC to DC charger. The old standby solenoid system just does not work that well with the "smart" charging system
I mean another/larger inverter to run more AC amperage. So basically it sounds like I should be fine with just the one battery maybe until a fridge gets involved.
 
I ran a dual battery in my 80 and set it up in my LX pretty much as soon as I got it. I like dual battery systems because once you set it up, you can just forget about it. It's always there when you need it and you can use it to self jump a dead starting battery if you need to, which I've done a few times.
 
I did the dual battery setup in my previous truck. After the expenses, the work, the complications, and everything else that was involved, I came to one simple conclusion: I'll only ever again do a dual battery setup if I plan to be camping in my truck for at a MINIMUM one month at a time.

A portable setup like a GoalZero Lithium pack is a 10x better option for anyone that needs to run a fridge, but isn't camping for months at a time.

All of what you've listed can easily run off a single, OEM battery. Just let the truck run for 30-60mins every day, and you'll almost certainly be fine.
Thanks for your insight! See, I hope to be camping once a month... but you know how life is LOL
 
I mean another/larger inverter to run more AC amperage. So basically it sounds like I should be fine with just the one battery maybe until a fridge gets involved.

How many AC appliances are you planning to run ? You have an AC outlet in the back. I ran an extension cord to the passenger area . I can charge my laptop while I drive.
 
How many AC appliances are you planning to run ? You have an AC outlet in the back. I ran an extension cord to the passenger area . I can charge my laptop while I drive.
A few higher amperage items such as electric leaf blower, vacuum, air compressor for tools etc. Extension cord to the front is great idea for small electronics!
 
I ran a dual battery in my 80 and set it up in my LX pretty much as soon as I got it. I like dual battery systems because once you set it up, you can just forget about it. It's always there when you need it and you can use it to self jump a dead starting battery if you need to, which I've done a few times.
Good point, hadn't thought about that! That's some great insurance to have in case main battery dies.
 
I had a dual setup in my 4runner and with my LC I went with a goal zero yeti to run my fridge and charge phones and cameras. Way lighter, better for me and useful beyond the truck.
 
Thanks for your insight! See, I hope to be camping once a month... but you know how life is LOL

Note that I said for a MONTH AT A TIME, not once per month.

Camping once per month is a perfect Goal Zero Yeti candidate.
 
Whenever it makes you happy. If you feel like it makes sense, go for it.

A lot of people will discourage you, but if it makes sense to you, don’t be dissuaded.

I did a dual battery setup with two Oddesey AGM batteries, Slee trays, a BCDC, and wiring, and did the labor myself, and spent somewhere around $1500 in parts. Could you do it cheaper, sure, but this is one data point.

I think most people are probably fine with a stock battery and a jump pack for emergencies.

I can’t see which year you have, but keep in mind 16+ don’t benefit from the diode trick to boost charging voltage, so you might want to keep a flooded lead acid battery in the starting position...
 
When do you make the call whether or not to go with an aux battery?

I want to install lights, radios, more AC output power, winch, fridge, etc(do I need 2 batteries to run all this stuff?). This would happen over time, but I would hate to get the lights and radios done for example and then have to re run the wiring to an aux battery setup.

I want to say, ok fine just make the dual battery the first thing that happens. But then there's really no load on it.

What would you do?

None of those use cases particularly warrant the cost, complexity, and weight of a traditional dual batt system. Also, many dual batt systems as installed in the aftermarket honestly compromise reliability of the original single battery system, such that it's less reliable. Seriously.

I'm in the portable lithium batt camp, which has flexibility to work in many additional ways.

With the advent of solar, a modern high power high reserve system may look more like a single group 31 + a 50W or 100W panel on the roof. That'll take you farther. Each 100W panel is worth on average 30Ah a day. Assuming a traditional 100Ah battery has 50Ah worth of usable reserve, solar has the potential to go farther. Batteries after all only store power. Solar generates power.

Regardless of what system you choose, it's great to have on hand a quality lithium starter. I've not carried a jumper cable in years. The jump starter is useful for yourself and everyone else that may need help. Many double as a backup phone charger.

A portable solar panel can also doubles as an independent phone, car (with charge controller), or portable lithium battery charger. Pretty awesome things.
 
I usually avoid just saying to use search, but this is such a common question that has been discussed by so many good folks for so many situations, I guess this is the time to say it. There are dual battery threads in the forum FAQs and the topic is revived many times per month with ideas and plans and questions. Spend some time using search and then if you have specific questions, several folks will chime in with help.
 
I usually avoid just saying to use search, but this is such a common question that has been discussed by so many good folks for so many situations, I guess this is the time to say it. There are dual battery threads in the forum FAQs and the topic is revived many times per month with ideas and plans and questions. Spend some time using search and then if you have specific questions, several folks will chime in with help.
Yeah, I've read it all. Thanks
 
None of those use cases particularly warrant the cost, complexity, and weight of a traditional dual batt system. Also, many dual batt systems as installed in the aftermarket honestly compromise reliability of the original single battery system, such that it's less reliable. Seriously.

I'm in the portable lithium batt camp, which has flexibility to work in many additional ways.

With the advent of solar, a modern high power high reserve system may look more like a single group 31 + a 50W or 100W panel on the roof. That'll take you farther. Each 100W panel is worth on average 30Ah a day. Assuming a traditional 100Ah battery has 50Ah worth of usable reserve, solar has the potential to go farther. Batteries after all only store power. Solar generates power.

Regardless of what system you choose, it's great to have on hand a quality lithium starter. I've not carried a jumper cable in years. The jump starter is useful for yourself and everyone else that may need help. Many double as a backup phone charger.

A portable solar panel can also doubles as an independent phone, car (with charge controller), or portable lithium battery charger. Pretty awesome things.
That's pretty awesome. Solar panel would provide a lot of flexibility. Thanks for the link!
 
Not trying to get into a debate, but my BCDC has an Anderson solar port that I run a portable solar panel with.
 
Add me to the ‘solar generator’ camp. Some of the $700 plus ones have the 1500 watt+ AC inverter you’re after.
You can put in a. Dc to dc in your car if you must have fast charging, but it probably isn’t necessary. They all also accept a moderate amount of solar.
You can also take it out of the truck, use it around camp, or use it around the house in an outage or to get an outlet in the backyard or front yard. Many many use cases.
if you do decide on a house battery, consider LFP. The fixed weight will be much less, and the capacity much more. With the heated options very little drawback but $
 

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