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ASFIR Skid plates and front bumper (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter viducce
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Posted in "what did you do this week" but thought it might go well here.
Just put on my bracket for the large middle skid plate (a long ago ordered diesel version).
Slightest misalignment of the forward mounting holes - about on the level of "maybe this got bent just a little in shipping or shifted during galvanizing."
Due to the robustness of the bracket it did require muscling it with a jack to get the bolts in the front - but I will just enlarge one or both of those holes next time it is off and it will be fine.
Perhaps also worth noting:
To simplify future installs and removal I used a longer center bolt for the front skid for two reasons:
If everything is aligned just so the supplied bolt is perfect - any shift and it's just too short to engage.
And my plan for routine installation of the front and middle skids is to support the middle of the front skid, loosely install the front bolts, loosely install the long center bolt in the front skid - this leaves space for the front of the large middle skid to fit between the rear of the front skid and crossmember and be somewhat supported, lift and support the back of the middle skid and get bolts started.
Seems important to be able remove and replace everything on the side of the road.
Just put on my bracket for the large middle skid plate (a long ago ordered diesel version).
Slightest misalignment of the forward mounting holes - about on the level of "maybe this got bent just a little in shipping or shifted during galvanizing."
Due to the robustness of the bracket it did require muscling it with a jack to get the bolts in the front - but I will just enlarge one or both of those holes next time it is off and it will be fine.
Perhaps also worth noting:
To simplify future installs and removal I used a longer center bolt for the front skid for two reasons:
If everything is aligned just so the supplied bolt is perfect - any shift and it's just too short to engage.
And my plan for routine installation of the front and middle skids is to support the middle of the front skid, loosely install the front bolts, loosely install the long center bolt in the front skid - this leaves space for the front of the large middle skid to fit between the rear of the front skid and crossmember and be somewhat supported, lift and support the back of the middle skid and get bolts started.
Seems important to be able remove and replace everything on the side of the road.
Last edited:
Posted in "what did you do this week" but thought it might go well here.
Just put on my bracket for the large middle skid plate (a long ago ordered diesel version).
Slightest misalignment of the forward mounting holes - about on the level of "maybe this got bent just a little in shipping or shifted during galvanizing."
Due to the robustness of the bracket it did require muscling it with a jack to get the bolts in the front - but I will just enlarge one or both of those holes next time it is off and it will be fine.
Perhaps also worth noting:
To simplify future installs and removal I used a longer center bolt for the front skid for two reasons:
If everything is aligned just so the supplied bolt is perfect - any shift and it's just too short to engage.
And my plan for routine installation of the front and middle skids is to support the middle of the front skid, loosely install the front bolts, loosely install the long center bolt in the front skid - this leaves space for the front of the large middle skid to fit between by rear of the front skid and crossmember and be somewhat supported, lift and support the back of the middle skid and get bolts started.
Seems important to be able remove and replace everything on the side of the road.
Great thoughts. Could you make it even easier by converting two of the four front bolt holes to slots (like on the stock front "skid plate"), which allows you to leave two bolts in place and then slide the skid up to them and be suspended from them while you put in the rear hardware?
edit—just looked at my stock “skid”—three bolts on the leading edge—outer two run through holes, and the center one just fits in a slot. Super handy for installing/uninstalling if (unlike me) you consistently remember not to take that middle bolt out all the way while you uninstall.
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I like that front middle slot idea. Might do one on both the front and middle skids...
Early on I was so impressed with the heft of the middle skid and bracket it seemed short pieces of chain might be needed to hold it up for mounting (couple bits of chain and hooks live in my tool bag anyway) - frankly I am not looking forward to dismounting that beast on a lift and may prefer to always do it on the ground.
It arrived! Would it be sacrilegious to rattle can this black using the same VHT chassis paint I used on my sliders? They look great as is but prefer black to a shiny look. Looking forward to install.
Try it the way it is for a while ~ you may like it and can paint it any time if you don't.
dogdaysindurham
SILVER Star
I painted mine fire truck red to match my other skids
I picked up my 06 LX in May with no skids whatsoever. Its a true mall crawler, no signs of wheelin, so im guessing the NY/CT salted roads rusted out the front skid and maybe they ditched the plastic one at the same time.
So a front skid was high on my list of mods. I figured it would be a easy install, but when i got under there i realized the rear 2 mounting points for the asfir skid had broken 8M bolts in them and the front and center hole threads were rusty. Today i went at the rear 2 with PB blaster(multiple blasts last night) and a cheap Left hand drill bit/ extractor kit. No dice. Broke an extractor and drill bit, tried small and graduated larger.
Here is the Q: do i need to use the rear 2 mounting points? The front skid is on now with the center and front 3 bolts.
So a front skid was high on my list of mods. I figured it would be a easy install, but when i got under there i realized the rear 2 mounting points for the asfir skid had broken 8M bolts in them and the front and center hole threads were rusty. Today i went at the rear 2 with PB blaster(multiple blasts last night) and a cheap Left hand drill bit/ extractor kit. No dice. Broke an extractor and drill bit, tried small and graduated larger.
Here is the Q: do i need to use the rear 2 mounting points? The front skid is on now with the center and front 3 bolts.
I wouldn't hesitate to drive regular roads for a while that way, but not long-term.
You may be at the point of just drilling those right out and tapping for 10x1.25.
You may be at the point of just drilling those right out and tapping for 10x1.25.
dogdaysindurham
SILVER Star
I feel your pain about broken bolts. You might try a cobalt bit to drill out those broken items and use some tap magic (or other cutting fluid) to prevent breaking bits and taps.
Lang tools makes a nice metric tap and die set that is still made on the USA.
Lang tools makes a nice metric tap and die set that is still made on the USA.
i will check out the lang tool set.
I used tap magic while drilling too. I dont want to blame the bits completely, I did get aggressive due to having to drill upside down. This is the set i used. : Neiko 01925A Screw Extractor and Left Hand Drill Bit Set, 10 Piece | Alloy Extractors | Cobalt HSS Drill Bits | Apparently they were Cobalt bits haha snapped one and an extractor
dogdaysindurham
SILVER Star
I had good luck with the Milwaukee Cobalt drill bits for this application that one can get from Home Depot and Lowes.
Side note, was your avatar taken at Island Beach State park? I haven't been with the LX yet, might get the permit next year
I 100% got aggressive with the drill bit at the end, i was trying to get the left handed bit to catch and over torqued it when it did.
Started with the #2 drill, that went smoothly, moved to the #2 extractor and shattered it. not sure on the depth i had already cut before using the extractor but 3/4in of the extractor broke off with hand torque. then graduated to #3, i destroyed the drill bit using to much upward force. Id say still try the kit, bits are sharp enough, just take your time and go slower. I used tap magic on all the bits, but as i was drilling upside down not sure how effective it was. I ran out of time so figured i would go at them another day,
Back again with another question. I went under to look and my diff drop doesn't have the bolts because the PO didn't put the plastic skid back on. Do you know the thread of the diff drop bolts?
From what I've read of other people's comments I am pretty sure it is 8mm x 1.25mm same as stock.
I don't, but its the same pitch as all the others. Most hardware stores have the pitch and size measuring tools.
