Arrgh! (1 Viewer)

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Well, there's another good work shirt turned into a rag. Should have known better than to stop by the shop in my good clothes. After climbing around my boxes of parts, I found the evaparator from my other 40. It was labeled better than this one. I had two of the fuel vent lines reversed. I was reading where that could cause some vacuum issues. Unfortunately, now It doesn't want to fire at all. It just turns over and over. Tried some fuel straight down the carb and some carb cleaner as well... Nothing. So I can't confirm the evaparator lines to be the culprit yet. But my hopes are high. I'll be back tomorrow with proper work attire.
 
Ok. .Side of manifold is a fitting. that went to teh pcv valve I think? .. thats a wide open vacuum leak. Plug that till you hoook up pcv or hook up pcv correctly.
There are 2 fittings coming out of it a big one and a smaller one.
It will not run with an openening to air in the manifold that big.
 
Ok. .Side of manifold is a fitting. that went to teh pcv valve I think? .. thats a wide open vacuum leak. Plug that till you hoook up pcv or hook up pcv correctly.
There are 2 fittings coming out of it a big one and a smaller one.
It will not run with an openening to air in the manifold that big.

Erik, PCV is hooked up correctly. The open port on the front of the manifold has a hose that essentially blocks off the hole(connected to each other) It was removed to take a picture of the electrical connector behind it. That could be done better by putting a plug in there. The open port from the carb you can see on post 20 in the thread. That is blocked offright now. From that pic in post 20, where did that go to before. I don't recall. Perhaps air pump.

I do think it is a vacuum leak or a carb issue.

Charles can you post pics of the dizzy and the igniter wiring as it sits today please. EDIT: Here is a link with some good pics and talk on the igniter and such: LINKY

You have the right guys here asking questions and giving suggestions. It may take a little get together at your place and get it sorted out.

Ex
 
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Vacuum

Ok, one more thing, did you put the little vacuum hose back on the two ports? The one you removed for the picture. also, are there only two ports on that or is/was there a third one and it is broken off and now open, causing a leak? All just guesses....

Ex
 
Here's some shots of the dizzy and coil etc. The dizzy has only one vacuum line, one wire at the bottom and the plug wires connected to it. This pic was taken with the motor at TDC.

Coming off the coil etc. are two wires that are not connected. One I know goes to a noise suppressor for the radio. The second I believe from previous searches was not hooked up from the factory.

I checked and the two lines are connected again on the intake, and there are only two. Also, most connectors are the stock plastic ones, so I think it's not likely that I connected them to the wrong place.

I found my coil and ignitor from my other one. I'll be trying it tonight. Of course it's not been used in nearly 17 years. If push comes to shove I have an HEI that hasn't been used in 10 years sitting in my other motor. It's next on my list, so I hate to scavage too much from it.
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I think that one on the bottom of the carb went to egr.. YOu all are gonna make me go dig out a FSM in the garage.. I"ll be honest, been working over 20+ hours at the part time gig last couple weeks so I haven't had any time in the garage.. Got Colin running and got stuff from Kelly but other than that been working.

One last question.. When you hit the key.. Do you hear a click on the carb.. Is the Fuel cut off solenoid working? You will probably have to have a test mule in the cab hitting the key.. the fuel cut off I believe is

Take those pictures, draw a little circle around where you want me or Rob to ID stuff and we'll do our best. I had a 76 FJ40 for about 16 years that at one time was my daily driver so I will do my best. (that an ok resume?)

The port I was talkign about was on the drivers side of the Intake manifold. It was disconnected..

WE'll get you going..

And you mentioned distributer swap? from what to what?
 
What year distributers and ignitors do you have lying round? that one was stock igniter for 76 but that looks like an earlier distributer.

i'm honestly not a fan of HEI's unless you know what your doing with one.. I could go into detail but i'll refrain. ALMOST every HEI i've ever seen in a LandCruiser was not set up correctly.

alas, lets not continue to swap stuff, I'll try to dig out a FSM later this week, will probably be first avail on friday night.. have a conf call thurs night to discuss TLCA issues and whether or not the home office will continue to be our spare bedroom or not.
 
Charles, what is the open electrical connector down by the starter?

Also make sure your pionts gap is set correct. With it at TDC it should be open and at the required spec.

Ex
 
Charles, what is the open electrical connector down by the starter?

Also make sure your pionts gap is set correct. With it at TDC it should be open and at the required spec.

Ex

According to my reasearch on MUD, the open connector by the starter was that way from the factory. The gap is correct when the points are at their greatest. However, that is not at TDC. At TDC it's completely closed. If it should be open at TDC, then we may have found a problem.

I think that one on the bottom of the carb went to egr.. YOu all are gonna make me go dig out a FSM in the garage.. I"ll be honest, been working over 20+ hours at the part time gig last couple weeks so I haven't had any time in the garage.. Got Colin running and got stuff from Kelly but other than that been working.

One last question.. When you hit the key.. Do you hear a click on the carb.. Is the Fuel cut off solenoid working? You will probably have to have a test mule in the cab hitting the key.. the fuel cut off I believe is

Take those pictures, draw a little circle around where you want me or Rob to ID stuff and we'll do our best. I had a 76 FJ40 for about 16 years that at one time was my daily driver so I will do my best. (that an ok resume?)

The port I was talkign about was on the drivers side of the Intake manifold. It was disconnected..

WE'll get you going..

And you mentioned distributer swap? from what to what?

Fuel cut off solenoid is working with the key.
If the port you're refering to is the threaded one visible in post #x, that does not go all the way through. Otherwise I'm not sure I see one.
I have a distributor, coil and ignitor setup, from another 2/76 FJ40 that I took off 20 years ago. It's been sitting in a box ever since.
Actually I didn't have a specific connection question. I was hoping the pictures might prompt someone to say, "Hey bonehead, everybody knows the thingymajigger doesn't go to the whatchamacalit."
Erik, I know how demanding just our regular schedules can be. You add a second job on top of that and it can get downright crazy. I appreciate any insight you can give. But, don't worry if you can't get around to finding the fsm.

What year distributers and ignitors do you have lying round? that one was stock igniter for 76 but that looks like an earlier distributer.

i'm honestly not a fan of HEI's unless you know what your doing with one.. I could go into detail but i'll refrain. ALMOST every HEI i've ever seen in a LandCruiser was not set up correctly.

alas, lets not continue to swap stuff, I'll try to dig out a FSM later this week, will probably be first avail on friday night.. have a conf call thurs night to discuss TLCA issues and whether or not the home office will continue to be our spare bedroom or not.

I have two fj40's. Both are 2/76 build dates. I have the dizzy and coil etc that came from this one. I thought they were original. However, when compared to the dizzy from my other one, the difference is that there's no knob near the vacuum advance port. I know the other dizzy to be original because I bought that LC from a family friend with only 27k miles on it. And... we won't go there, but I replaced that system with the HEI that now sits on the floor of the shop.

Didn't get as much time there tonight as I'd hoped. couldn't get out of work till after 8:00. A little starter fluid in the carb and I got her to fire, but not run at all. Curiosity led me to take the gas cap off. There was a definite vacuum in the tank. I'm not sure of the 3 vent lines going in the back of the gas tank. Does anyone know their order as it relates to the evaporator? Here's what I did. The line coming from the right side of the evaporator (looking from inside the cab) is going to the most outboard pipe on the tank. The middle to the middle and the one on the left side goes to the pipe towards the middle of the cab. I've searched and it's probably out there somewhere. I just couldn't find it. I labeled the vent lines well when I removed them from my other one and these are now set up the same way. I'm just looking for affirmation.

I am quickly getting over my head. I've never been a terribly good troubleshooter. So I will check into all suggestions anyone has for me.

Thanks,
 
I meant to say - If it is an earlier dizzy, maybe it was put in to accomodate the desmog.
 
According to my reasearch on MUD, the open connector by the starter was that way from the factory. The gap is correct when the points are at their greatest. However, that is not at TDC. At TDC it's completely closed. If it should be open at TDC, then we may have found a problem.

No, I should have said at any of the highest points the gap should be what the spec is. Getting it running to get the timing light on it, will also help some.
 
that dist that's in there looks like an earlier vacuum advance/non-usa.. that's fine, point dist is a points dist and what you have in there is a better version than the 76 one.
your best bet is to find out why your fuel level is wrong, does it have a return line? is it clogged.
Can you blow thru it with a compressed air hose? Listen in tank?
Is there something in the needle and seat causing it to overfill? if you don't have a level line in the carb window and it's full that's a problem, either you flooded it or the float is stuck.

And did you correctly hook up the feed and return lines.. Simple to blow thru each to the tank to see if they are correct.. I did that once.. Just don't blow backwards thru the filter.

I have a ton of spare carbs, you could send one out to Mark Algazy to have it rebuilt if you can match it to your truck. For carbs it's either Mark Algazy or Jim Chenoweth.. Either one of those two I would trust to rebuild a cruiser carb and have been to both of their shops.

Timing.. you can move the dist back and forth a touch to see if it'll keep running then fine tune it. Without any of the vacuum lines hooked up. Once it's running hit it with a timing light, get it going.
Valves adjusted at all or did they just throw the rocker arm on when they did the head?

I"l be around the house sunday.. I have manuals.

"If the port you're refering to is the threaded one visible in post #x, that does not go all the way through. Otherwise I'm not sure I see one."
I'm referring to the approx 3/4" tube coming off the bottom of the carb. Probably had a hose on it that looked like a shredded water hose that went to the old EGR system(i think off the top of my head) Post # 20 top pic.
Also.. What is the sensor post #10 third pick in the bottom of the carb? I don't think I have ever seen a thermo sensor in the bottom of a carb. Was that there before? Is it blocking the butterflies

Your air injection rail capped on the head?

I know i'm askign a lot of questions.. There is a reason I go electronic ignitions in everything i own.
 
that dist that's in there looks like an earlier vacuum advance/non-usa.. that's fine, point dist is a points dist and what you have in there is a better version than the 76 one.
your best bet is to find out why your fuel level is wrong, does it have a return line? is it clogged.
Can you blow thru it with a compressed air hose? Listen in tank?
Is there something in the needle and seat causing it to overfill? if you don't have a level line in the carb window and it's full that's a problem, either you flooded it or the float is stuck.

And did you correctly hook up the feed and return lines.. Simple to blow thru each to the tank to see if they are correct.. I did that once.. Just don't blow backwards thru the filter.

I have a ton of spare carbs, you could send one out to Mark Algazy to have it rebuilt if you can match it to your truck. For carbs it's either Mark Algazy or Jim Chenoweth.. Either one of those two I would trust to rebuild a cruiser carb and have been to both of their shops.

Timing.. you can move the dist back and forth a touch to see if it'll keep running then fine tune it. Without any of the vacuum lines hooked up. Once it's running hit it with a timing light, get it going.
Valves adjusted at all or did they just throw the rocker arm on when they did the head?

I"l be around the house sunday.. I have manuals.

"If the port you're refering to is the threaded one visible in post #x, that does not go all the way through. Otherwise I'm not sure I see one."
I'm referring to the approx 3/4" tube coming off the bottom of the carb. Probably had a hose on it that looked like a shredded water hose that went to the old EGR system(i think off the top of my head) Post # 20 top pic.
Also.. What is the sensor post #10 third pick in the bottom of the carb? I don't think I have ever seen a thermo sensor in the bottom of a carb. Was that there before? Is it blocking the butterflies

Your air injection rail capped on the head?

I know i'm askign a lot of questions.. There is a reason I go electronic ignitions in everything i own.


Erik, that might be something...... I assumed that the valves would be adjusted, but since this motor was just rebuilt, I wonder now. I'll wait till Charles chimes in. Maybe he did do them.

The air injection rail is capped off, yes.
 
Charles?
 
Sorry for the lack of responses. I've been busy at work and haven't had much quality time with the LC. Last night I checked the manifolds with a feeler guage. There was quite a gap on the exhaust manifold. I think more than even a 2nd gasket might make up. So I pulled them and will have them machined next week. In the meantime I'll pull the valve cover, and check the gap. The machine shop said they did it, but it would be worth a double check. I'll also run through the fuel lines and vent lines to make sure they are clear and working properly. Those shouldn't take long, so it's mostly waiting on the manifolds. I'm optimistic, as big as the gap was, it should make a difference.
 
Is your carb still overfueling, as in is the bowl over half full after you try to start it? What happens if you unhook the fuel line and just pour some gas down the carb and try to start it? Will it run until it runs out of gas, or will it not run on gas at all?

-Colin
 
Air - Fuel - Fire.. We'll get this! one of those variables ain't right or more than one.. This one is easier than the one Colin tackled this weekend..
 
If we can work out a time I can come out and take a look over what you've got. Maybe just another set of eyes could spot something.

Like Erik said - fuel, fire, and compression is all it takes to make an engine run. I dont' think the exhaust manifold gap would keep it from running, however its still good that you got that machined, don't want exhaust leaks. I would put the motor at 7* before TDC and stab the dizzy with the rotor pointing at #1, just to be sure it's in correctly, and then check at the plug wires to make sure you have spark. I would assume there is compression on a newly built motor, but that would be my next check ( I have a compression gauge if you need one). I rebuilt a little briggs and could only get it to run a second on ether because I was an idiot and didn't grind the exhaust valve to let it seat. If the valves are not closing you will not get it to start, so check all your valve clearances.

If valves are adjusted good and you still don't have compression I would pull the timing cover and make sure you're lined up dot to dot. If it got put in a tooth or two off the valves could be open at the wrong time, leading to no compression. That gives you a few things to check while waiting for your exhaust manifold.
 
One other thing I wanted to mention to Charles as well. make sure the plug wires are in the right order. I know you probably made sure that the correct firing order was followed, but just one more thing that can mess with us.
 

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