ARP hub studs too long?

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Cdaniel

Undocumented Mechanic-I Am Not CDAN
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So I purchased a set of ARP hub studs from Front Range Off Road to mount my Asco/Aisn hubs. The stud shoulder length seems to be sized for use with my old Warn hubs.

I received some lock nuts with the studs, but no washers. The nuts are the evil upset thread type and I will not use them. The solution is a nice thick washer I guess, but is there an ARP stud out there with a shorter shoulder? I didn't see any offerings for different hub types.

ARP hub stud users, whaddya say?:confused:
hubstuds.jpg
 
So I purchased a set of ARP hub studs from Front Range Off Road to mount my Asco/Aisn hubs. The stud shoulder length seems to be sized for use with my old Warn hubs.

I received some lock nuts with the studs, but no washers. The nuts are the evil upset thread type and I will not use them. The solution is a nice thick washer I guess, but is there an ARP stud out there with a shorter shoulder? I didn't see any offerings for different hub types.

ARP hub stud users, whaddya say?:confused:



Should be two different lengths on the threaded sections of the stud. The longer threaded section is installed into the wheel bearing hub and the shorter section is used to retain the lockout body to the wheel bearing hub.


I have installed 100's of these studs without issue.

Do you have the rest of the hardware to properly install the factory lockouts?

Taper cone locking washers and flat washers?

If you are not going to use the lock nuts, you had best use a thread locking compound of some sort.

Have you installed these yet or just looking at things?
 
Partially installed as as the finishing touch of the front axle portion of my rehab project.

Orientation of thread length I got.

The new to me hubs came with the cones and nuts, but no other washers. I'll probably be replacing the cones because they are all pretty trashed.

My FSM calls out a spring washer. It just looks like there would be too much shoulder sticking out even with a washer of some sort. Maybe the cones don't go as deep as I imagine.

I was thinking flat washer and loctite on the nut. No way I'll use those upset thread nuts unless it's something I don't expect to ever take apart. Maybe a nylock, but thread locker juice is my preference.


Should be two different lengths on the threaded sections of the stud. The longer threaded section is installed into the wheel bearing hub and the shorter section is used to retain the lockout body to the wheel bearing hub.


I have installed 100's of these studs without issue.

Do you have the rest of the hardware to properly install the factory lockouts?

Taper cone locking washers and flat washers?

If you are not going to use the lock nuts, you had best use a thread locking compound of some sort.

Have you installed these yet or just looking at things?
 
Do you have the rest of the hardware to properly install the factory lockouts?

Taper cone locking washers and flat washers?

AFAIK, detail-wise, there is no flat washer - it is a split washer on top of the cone washer, and then the nut. The 1980~ parts diagram below shows the same - I just ordered these parts for my hubs and the 94512‑00800 is a split washer.
disc hub selector.jpg
 
I've never had a problem using the top lock nut with the fror studs, even when removing them for service.

And use a flat washer with the cone washer in this application. The split washer does nothing. Toyota has replaced most split washers with flat washers in these applications.


And they get torqued to 17 ft lbs
 
So,


What have you found out?

Did you fully install the studs into the wheel bearing hub body yet?
 
So,


What have you found out?

Did you fully install the studs into the wheel bearing hub body yet?

Yes

I managed to get my hands on 6 new cones at the dealership today. The rest on order. It appears that my worries are unfounded. With the new cone and some kind of washer, the shoulder shouldn't be seen.

So Poser, do you reccomend thread locker on the bearing hub side? Possibly medium "blue"? Stronger? Nothing?
 
Last edited:
Blue locktite on the stud into the wheel bearing hub body.

Blue locktite on the nuts retaining the lockout body to the wheel bearing hub body.



:beer:
 
Blue locktite on the nuts retaining the lockout body to the wheel bearing hub body.



:beer:

Unnecessary with the Top lock nuts included with the fror kit.

I'd recommend wd40 or antisieze
 

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