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Not sure if the nuts used on the brake drum were too large as far as wrench used or wrong SAE wrench was used. Ended up pulling it off the shelve to remove the nuts. Was when I did I noticed dents in the main tube.:frown: View attachment 1832646 View attachment 1832647


Interesting the driveshaft I believe were from my 73 have the same pattern but used smaller bolts. Which brings up the question does my 73 have smaller holes in the flange or are 73 driveshafts somewhere else. Anyway have a driveshaft while not as bad as yours it does have some dents.
Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters has a good tech page on drive flanges that might help you id your mystery shafts here:

Cruiser Outfitters

I appreciate you looking through your parts for me but I'll pass on the rusty shaft. My best option might be to re-tube or sleeve my shaft and take it down to Tucson to get it balanced.
 
Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters has a good tech page on drive flanges that might help you id your mystery shafts here:

Cruiser Outfitters

I appreciate you looking through your parts for me but I'll pass on the rusty shaft. My best option might be to re-tube or sleeve my shaft and take it down to Tucson to get it balanced.
I would pass because of the dents. Rust isn't as bad as the photos show. Without the dents wouldn't have a problem sanding painting and running it. While the rust showed worse how bad the the dents are doesn't.

The other set I have match my 68 but had the original driveshafts retubed when I switched to the four speed. Have a number of earlier driveshafts that are skinny compared to these. Guessing early sixties. Forgot I have a set of 84 HJ47RV driveshaft for my 65 FJ45LP-B when I update the drivetrain.

Managed to shoehorn in a H42 and early one piece transfer into my 68. Going to a H55F would require a bunch more mods. Would do my homework about the conversion. My 79 will be a lot easier to install a five speed. A H41 with 3.70s and rubber overdrive might be a better choice. With as many highway miles you do can see the need to do something to drop the RPM.
 
update:

shortly after taking my money, I got the insurance cards, and they asked for a list of pictures . . . exterior, interior, back, sides, front, engine compartment . . . agent said this was routine for "stated-value"

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by pure chance, I discovered today that Safeco cancelled the policy without even seeing a need to inform me :rolleyes: - as a matter of fact, the sent out the snailmail just today, with the cancel date for Friday, leaving me less than 48 hours after the letter would have arrived :mad: (nevermind, I have a USPS hold until a week thereafter, so the deadline would have passed before we even got back into town :mad:)

guess what, the reason they cancelled was (heard it from two different customer service agents): "these vehicles are not antique or classic enough to qualify under our policy" :bang: - "because they seem to be driven offroad" - NO s*** :rofl:

(like I hadn't truthfully mentioned all of this when they sold me the policy :rolleyes:)
@Chris in AZ
 
Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters has a good tech page on drive flanges that might help you id your mystery shafts here:

Cruiser Outfitters

I appreciate you looking through your parts for me but I'll pass on the rusty shaft. My best option might be to re-tube or sleeve my shaft and take it down to Tucson to get it balanced.


retubing and balancing a driveshaft for my 40 cost $85 at Arizona Driveshaft in Mesa - shouldn't be more in Tucson . . .
 
retubing and balancing a driveshaft for my 40 cost $85 at Arizona Driveshaft in Mesa - shouldn't be more in Tucson . . .
Thanks Claudia - I'll look in to it.

My last dealing with a driveshaft shop in Tucson still gets me riled up. Cost was more than quoted and he had no way of balancing it - or even checking the balance. Claimed that the way he made them they didn't need balancing . . .
 
Hi CSC, does anyone have a front 100 series AHC shock(s) and/or oem UCAs? I'm stranded in phoenix getting an LX road ready and trying to get by until I can get home and think more clearly about a full suspension.

BTW shout out to Murf and Robert at Camelback Toyota. They've been a Thanksgiving miracle helping me get on the road quickly.

Edit: We can call off the search. I made it home safely. Thanks!
 
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Set of 4 35” Nitto Terra Grapplers 315/75R16 with under 22k miles, about 60% tread left $500

1 tire: Cooper ST Max 255/80R17 tire, zero miles $90. I think has 45k+ mileage warranty left.

Located in Scottsdale. Has Discount Tire Certs, if transferable.
 
Set of 4 35” Nitto Terra Grapplers 315/75R16 with under 22k miles, about 60% tread left $500

1 tire: Cooper ST Max 255/80R17 tire, zero miles $90. I think has 45k+ mileage warranty left.

Located in Scottsdale. Has Discount Tire Certs, if transferable.

Sending a pm for the cooper tire
 
Anyone need pearl LX stock running boards or tan 3rd row seats? Make me a reasonable offer and they are yours. I'm in South Tempe

-Brandon
858-220-9378
 
For sale 1998 100 series. Private party, not me. One owner, dealer services, 158,000 miles. Needs rear spoiler and repairs to master window switch. $6000. I can PM contact info if you are interested. John
 
For sale 1998 100 series. Private party, not me. One owner, dealer services, 158,000 miles. Needs rear spoiler and repairs to master window switch. $6000. I can PM contact info if you are interested. John

:bang: too bad we don't need a 100
 
For sale 2003 MERCEDES-BENZ SLK32 AMG KOMPRESSOR

One owner, no accidents. Very low miles - 127476 miles. Owned by doctor. Lower than KBB value.

Please PM for contact info if you are interested.

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Looking for some lightly used OME 850 front coils for my 80. If none appear soon I'll buy new, at which time my lightly used 851's will be for sale (<8000 miles)
 
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My brother is looking to unload a 220v compressor. He is moving and won’t have room for it. He is looking to get $400 for it. If interested let me know and I will get you in touch.
 

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