ARB (OME) 2.5 Easy Install

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
May 1, 2003
Threads
34
Messages
221
Location
Santa Cruz, California
ARB (OME) 2.5 lift on and running this weekend. Very easy install, indeed. The caster correction wasn't even that bad, considering the help you guys gave me regarding the measuring techniques. It would have been IMPOSSIBLE to do so as directed by ARB. (WTF?)

Anyway, my local machine shop thought the installation on the bushings as no big deal, and the tip on makinga jig outa 1/2 inch copper pipe came in very handy. (thanks again!)

Bottom line is that she looks like she should have looked off the factory line if you ask me. Even space around the wells now. Definitely the biggest improvement on looks and handling. Working on a set of doughnuts today, and a bumper next year.

One thing I'm, kinda wondering is why ARB does not include a bracket for the brake proportion at the rear. Seems strange that this would be let up to the owner to figure out. (Not hard, but never the less I still need to do the gravel test = time.)

A friend just installed a lift on his 2006 Tundra and the bracket correction was included. Simple bolt on. I basically did the same thing by making a bracket that moved the axle portion up 3 and a quarter inches back to original height. Just seems like an oversite for this. Anyway, I'm stoked.

fj80-2.jpg

fj80-1.jpg

fj80-3.jpg
 
Last edited:
Nice, now remove the running boards and enjoy the view.
 
xxr, nice job! I wanna do this next. 2 questions, how much? And how long did it take you ?
 
oh, and what shocks have you decided to install? thanks..
 
PDoyle said:
oh, and what shocks have you decided to install? thanks..

Ran with the medium 2.5 OME set up. (light front, medium rear) This ran about 750, alignment 75 and machinist time about 40 bucks. Took me about 3.5 hours to install the kit with the kids helping out, so I'd say under 2 hours is reasonable. Exact shocks #'s, I'd have to check on, as I bought them with the kit.

Bushings required measurement, removal, measurement again, and installation of the caster bushings themselves. 1.5?

The bracket (rear proportion valve) took about 30 minutes to make.

I plan to post some details and pics, as they could help the guy doing this for the first time. I'll work on it this weekend.
 
XXXR said:
Ran with the medium 2.5 OME set up. (light front, medium rear) This ran about 750, alignment 75 and machinist time about 40 bucks. Took me about 3.5 hours to install the kit with the kids helping out, so I'd say under 2 hours is reasonable. Exact shocks #'s, I'd have to check on, as I bought them with the kit.

Bushings required measurement, removal, measurement again, and installation of the caster bushings themselves. 1.5?

The bracket (rear proportion valve) took about 30 minutes to make.

I plan to post some details and pics, as they could help the guy doing this for the first time. I'll work on it this weekend.


Great! Can I borrow the kids?

Do you think OEM shocks would work on the 2 1/2" lift? I need shocks now and don't have the time or cash for the lift.
 
PDoyle said:
Great! Can I borrow the kids?

Do you think OEM shocks would work on the 2 1/2" lift? I need shocks now and don't have the time or cash for the lift.

I doubt it... they are quite longer. As a note, I thought my OEM's were fine, until I lifted the rig. Hydraulic fluid started running out of both of the fronts. Figure they were on their way out. Best bet is save the pennies and buy the kit. It will save you time and heart ache in the future.

As far as time, the "while you're in there" quote applies. You're gonna spend twice the time later on when you do replace the springs.
 
Last edited:
ok, good to know. Thanks! The lift looks real good.
 
Looks good welcome
 
PDoyle,
I noticed that the part number for OME stock replacement shocks is the same as the 2.5 medium and heavy spring lift. From what I have learned from others on here that now far more than I do, the OEM stock shocks will work fine and some prefer then as they are not as stiff. You do loose about 2" at full droop but it is hard to notice that. I just got my springs so am getting ready so see first hand how it works.
 
Looks like 265's to me...gotta get some bigger meats under there now!!

How are your road characteristics feeling?? Any tippier, top heavy cornering? Smoother/stiffer ride than the old factory spring/shocks??

Looks good man, x2 on lose the running boards :cheers:

Marsh
 
fzj80kidpen said:
PDoyle,
I noticed that the part number for OME stock replacement shocks is the same as the 2.5 medium and heavy spring lift. From what I have learned from others on here that now far more than I do, the OEM stock shocks will work fine and some prefer then as they are not as stiff. You do loose about 2" at full droop but it is hard to notice that. I just got my springs so am getting ready so see first hand how it works.

I read that too. Wonder y XXXR has had problems with his current shocks?

Do you have OME shocks on now?
Hey, get before and after pics and post em...
 
XXXR, how is the ride with the new lift now? Does it still lean in the corners?
 
Sorry guys, I was outa town for a few days. I just planted a set of 285/75/16 KO's this weekend. (I'll post a pic tonight)

I replaced the shocks, as the OME are quite longer. Besides, you'll be surprised that the OEM's might just be due for a change, even though they don't look it now. I hoisted my rig up, just to find a pool of hydraulic fluid under BOTH front shocks, after they were fully extended.

The ride - nice! Of course increased point of view from the hood. The ride is a little stiffer than stock, but not harsh in my opinion. The real change has been the tires (on road) A little more "touchy" as I think the originals are a little wider in terms of actual foot contact than the BF KO's. Leaning has decreased significanlty, but again not in a harsh manner. Still gives a bit, not I'd say about 40% decrease in OEM spring lean. I drive the infamous Highway 17 through the Santa Cruz mountains, and the rig was moving faster than usual through the 45 Mile an hour curves. : )

So far, I have NO bad remarks, other than feeling the steering a bit more at the wheel, which I actually like.

And for the poser thing... it looks GREAT! Still working on ANOTHER 700 bucks for sliders to get rid of the running boards. (originally bought it without the boards, but the wife was pregnant at that time too) This is a must for anyone running the OEM setup. You'll never look back!
 
Last edited:
Can you offer advice on how you did your caster correction. As much as I have looked, I cannot find a thoroughly explained caster correction install... including measuring and all the tid-bits explained.
 
XXXR said:
Anyway, my local machine shop thought the installation on the bushings as no big deal, and the tip on makinga jig outa 1/2 inch copper pipe came in very handy. (thanks again!

Was there any difference in the spacing on the left and right control arms before you swapped out the bushings, or did the same jig fit perfectly on both sides?
 
XXXR keep the info. coming.
 
tech_dog said:
Was there any difference in the spacing on the left and right control arms before you swapped out the bushings, or did the same jig fit perfectly on both sides?

Is the copper pipe used as a template? Meaning to mark how the old bushing are mounted? Thus using the copper pipe to aid in mounting the new busings the same way the old ones were mounted in?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom