ARB Lockers and Full Floating Rear Axle

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My plans may have changed. I recieved a pair of factory locking axles. I was offered a good enough price to make me sell them. I have a stock '91 fj80....my question is, can arb lockers go in these axles? I know the locked axle housings are different from non-locked and the e-lockers wont fit in non locked axles. Will ARB lockers fit in non-locked axle housings?

Second question is: now that my full floating rear axle may be sold, can I convert my fj80 rear axle to full float? Is their kit that someone sells and if so, whos sells the best one?

Thanks a bunch, Joe :hillbilly:
 
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"Will ARB lockers fit in non-locked axle housings?"

Yes. I have ARB lockers in my 91 and they have always been an option for the later 80s that came unlocked. ARB makes many different flavors of lockers for many different applications. There is an application pdf on the arbusa.com website.

"can I convert my fj80 rear axle to full float?"

Not easily. I would suggest doing a complete axle swap if you "need" a full floater. That begs the question "why do you need a full floater?", but then again it's not my truck.
 

Tapage

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Several SF to FF are here .. and nice info.

In the ARB issue .. yes you can add ARB locker to a non locked axle housing, with out any problems, even if this it's SF or FF ..
 
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"Will ARB lockers fit in non-locked axle housings?"

Yes. I have ARB lockers in my 91 and they have always been an option for the later 80s that came unlocked. ARB makes many different flavors of lockers for many different applications. There is an application pdf on the arbusa.com website.

"can I convert my fj80 rear axle to full float?"

Not easily. I would suggest doing a complete axle swap if you "need" a full floater. That begs the question "why do you need a full floater?", but then again it's not my truck.

I have heard votes for both ff and sf axles, but what are some of your reasons for not wanting full float?

Several SF to FF are here .. and nice info.

In the ARB issue .. yes you can add ARB locker to a non locked axle housing, with out any problems, even if this it's SF or FF ..

Do you know of any threads that have SF to FF info on them? Or any member that have done the conversion. Also, did they do disc brakes as well?
 
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That begs the question "why do you need a full floater?", but then again it's not my truck.

I am a true believer in full floating axles!!!!!!

Why ?

Several years ago we were returning from a long trip on my older full floating FJ-40 when my rear traction control differential lost a nut which destroyed many parts inside the third member.

I just removed both axles, installed a pair of front locking hubs, removed the rear transmission shaft and could return safely on my temp front wheel drive cruiser.

Can you do that with a semi floating c-clip rear end cruiser ?



Full floating rear ends are designed for a higher load with their dual bearing and has proven many times to be less prone to give problems when you overload or punish your cruiser, read bigger tires.
 
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BenMara

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if you buy a ARB for a SF can you use it if you ever move to a FF rear? ive seen a couple PN# from ARB for the lockers
 
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I was on Golden Spike (Moab 4+) with my friend who had a full sized Blazer, we made it the entire trail without any carnage, on one of the last steps climbing out of a lower area on the trail my friend put his front wheels on top of the ledge and gassed it to pop the rear wheels up and over the step...... SNAP, broke a rear axle and since it was a C-CLIP axle the axle stated sliding out with the tire still connected, it made it out about a foot before we could get him to stop.. we had to leave his rig there, get a new axle and come back in the morning and replace it before we could move his rig... If he would have had FF axles he could have just driven out (he was locked front and rear) with 3 wheels powered..
good luck
Bret
 

Tapage

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if you buy a ARB for a SF can you use it if you ever move to a FF rear? ive seen a couple PN# from ARB for the lockers

I'm not sure with the new models .. but in with my old RD08 ( for SF axles ) you can pull out the separator block inside and use in a FF axle without problems ..

I thought the same should be doable in a RD33 but never try it ..
 
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Full floating rear ends are designed for a higher load with their dual bearing and has proven many times to be less prone to give problems when you overload or punish your cruiser, read bigger tires.

Hmmm. All US spec Cruisers since the FJ25 have had SF rears. I suppose if you're building a rock buggy with 44" tires and 300 hp V8, then something like a Dana 60 would be better. Oh, wait a minute. The rear SF is sized just like a Dana 60 and it's being pushed by 155 bone crushing horsepower coming from the mighty 3FE.

Now I'm not saying that you're wrong, but there are other things to consider before spending sheckles for this type of mod. In my opinion you're well into diminished returns.
 
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Why would you not keep the FF E-locker axle? I don't see an ARB + compressor + setup being much less than what you could sell the axle for, and the E-locker seems to be a sturdier, better design than the ARB anyway, not to mention losing the upgrade to a FF axle. Just my thoughts though.
 
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Hmmm. All US spec Cruisers since the FJ25 have had SF rears. I suppose if you're building a rock buggy with 44" tires and 300 hp V8, then something like a Dana 60 would be better. Oh, wait a minute. The rear SF is sized just like a Dana 60 and it's being pushed by 155 bone crushing horsepower coming from the mighty 3FE.

Now I'm not saying that you're wrong, but there are other things to consider before spending sheckles for this type of mod. In my opinion you're well into diminished returns.

Maybe I'm miss reading your post, but the '93+ U.S. spec FZJ80s have full floating axles. When the 100 came out, for some reason Toyota increased in the diff size, but then went back to SF axles. The axles are bigger on the 100, so maybe that makes up for it.

But the main reason to me for going FF, is the weight of the 80 means that its putting far more stress on the rear axle than any prior LC. Most built 80s are at last 6500lbs, with many outfitted rigs pushing 7000lbs or more. Now you're talking almost twice the weight of a stock 40. If you're carrying that much weight and hitting the trails, a SF is just asking for trouble, IMO.

Check out car-parts.com...there was a ton of axles on there. They start out pretty expensive, but there are dozens for less than the price of an ARB locker and a few for only a few hundred dollars. More than likely there's one local to you. When I searched, I included the diff. You could probably get one cheaper w/o the diff. Not sure if the diffs are interchangable or not.
 
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Hmmm. All US spec Cruisers since the FJ25 have had SF rears. I suppose if you're building a rock buggy with 44" tires and 300 hp V8, then something like a Dana 60 would be better. Oh, wait a minute. The rear SF is sized just like a Dana 60 and it's being pushed by 155 bone crushing horsepower coming from the mighty 3FE.

Now I'm not saying that you're wrong, but there are other things to consider before spending sheckles for this type of mod. In my opinion you're well into diminished returns.

Well in my country our assembling plant did the big mistake of outsourcing the rear end from our Dana factory and it has been the worst decision they made for the poor souls who bought the FJ-40, FJ-60 and FJ-70 with them. When I bought my 60 the first upgrade I did was throwing it away and put a original Toyota SF rear end. Later I found a FF and went in right away.

You don´t have any idea how many ended with a tire,rim,hub and axle spinning around and even some lives lost. Spell the word Dana to them and they will spit in your face.:crybaby:

The 80 series came again with Toyota SF and FF rears for our sake.:)
 
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Maybe I'm miss reading your post, but the '93+ U.S. spec FZJ80s have full floating axles.

Yea, I know that. And I've had Dana/Spicer stuff that wasn't worth spit. My point is that since I've been doing this Cruiser thing I've seen alot of axle carnage, but very few on Cruisers and never on an 80, SF or not. Now I'm not a rock buggy but I do routinely run 36" tires with bunches of extra weight carried all the time and somehow I'm still on my first set of rear wheel bearings and original axles after 17 years and 200K miles.

If someone gave me a FF rear for free would I put it in? I don't know. It would be a large expense for me getting 2 new sets of tires and rims and making the rear disks and e-brake work with my stock setup.

Like I said, I'm not saying you're wrong about the added strength and safety of a FF. I'm just saying the SF bits in an 80 Series are up to the task. I'd spend my money elsewhere.
 
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If someone gave me a FF rear for free would I put it in? I don't know. It would be a large expense for me getting 2 new sets of tires and rims and making the rear disks and e-brake work with my stock setup.

Like I said, I'm not saying you're wrong about the added strength and safety of a FF. I'm just saying the SF bits in an 80 Series are up to the task. I'd spend my money elsewhere.

For us, what you say made a lot of sense for the few who got the first lot of 80 series available here between october 1992 and march 1993 which came with 15" wheels and rear drums (all got already the new 4.5 ltr engine).

After march 1993 all came with 16" wheels and only the full trim VX as mine came with FF and rear disc brake but unfortunately the others came with SF and rear drum.

Many had done the upgrade to FF just for the rear disc brake upgrade and not for the FF by itself.

And you are right, Toyota rear is tough as has been proved by all 80's with SF and the latest FJ-70 sold here which came only with SF.
 
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sandcruiser

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i may be wrong (it happens a lot) but I think that one of the big reasons that toyota went to the FF in the later-80s is because of the disc brakes, which are apparently easier for toyota to do with a FF.

Since I'm pretty keen on getting 16s anyway, I'm keeping my eyes open for a FF rear w/ discs.

but until I find it, I'll be happy with my sf rear. it worked well enough for me on the 60, and I don't carry nearly as much crap now as I did back then.
 
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i may be wrong (it happens a lot) but I think that one of the big reasons that toyota went to the FF in the later-80s is because of the disc brakes, which are apparently easier for toyota to do with a FF.

Since I'm pretty keen on getting 16s anyway, I'm keeping my eyes open for a FF rear w/ discs.

but until I find it, I'll be happy with my sf rear. it worked well enough for me on the 60, and I don't carry nearly as much **** now as I did back then.

Keep in mind Toyota also increased the front rotor size (longer diameter and higher thickness) when they went to 16" so if you look to increase your braking then you should replace both axles.
 
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sandcruiser

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it's pretty low on the list of mods right now... the brakes work well, and since I have a 5 speed, I can use engine braking to help keep my speed under control.

I've even got an exhaust brake that I haven't connected yet-- once that is operational, it should help quite a bit more.

but eventually... I'll probably upgrade the rear axle. Probably. Can the new, larger rotors just be swapped onto the front axle if I go to 16" wheels? that seems like a cost effective upgrade when it comes time to change the rotors some day.
 

Tapage

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You don't need to have any brake problem with your rear SF even you don't plan any swim style with your cruiser .. as same as your 60 series with SF axle ..

My FZJ80 have a rear SF fitted with a ARB locker and have no problem at all .. ever I'm not playing much with this rig in mud ..

With 285 on it .. I'm not expecting any mayor problem ..
 

sandcruiser

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exactly: I'll put the ARB into the SF, then get some 16" rims w/ 255/85 tires. Maybe 285/75. Depends on what I can find.

If it breaks, I'll get a FF.
 

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